Green Hands: Applauding watches embodying the power of jade – and other viridescent beauties

By Neil Dolby
Apr 19, 2024

Jade green watches have a treasured quality attached to their aesthetic beauty. The ornamental mineral has long been prized for its translucence and durability; in Chinese culture, jade is thought to convey nobility, longevity and protective power. Here we pay homage to outstanding watches inspired by jade or rendered in other stunning shades of green.


H. Moser & Cie certainly understands the value-enhancing elegance and subtlety of jade stone and its striking colour. The dial of the recently released Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade model is made of 100% natural Wyoming jade that is untreated from its original source and exudes a subtle purity. Its appeal is enhanced by the fact that the Swiss watchmaker chose a jade with a concentrated olive tone.


Furthermore, the simplicity of the uncluttered dial highlights the fantastic hue of the natural stone. Hour and minute hands come with luminescent inserts, and only three red gold-faceted indices dot the dial of a timepiece devoid of any logo. Its bare, green good looks also serve to magnify the technical excellence of the one- minute flying tourbillon with skeletonised bridges visible at six o’clock. This Streamliner Tourbillon is limited to just 100 pieces, with each translucent jade dial hewn from semi-precious natural stone and precision cut using CNC (computer numerical control) technology.


Giving each model subtle differences in shading and marking, the process also meticulously preserves the structure of the jade; each slab is pared down into slices 1 to 1.2 mm thick, then hand polished to project the splendid natural colour.


The watch is equipped with the manufacture’s HMC 804 automatic movement, which boasts an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, a three- day minimum power reserve and double hairsprings that alleviate the effect of gravity and reduce friction. Dressed in red gold, the 40mm-diameter case is topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal and the integrated bracelet has a three-blade folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.


Cartier’s limited-edition Santos-Dumont XL model is embellished with jade Roman numerals. A beaded crown set with a jade cabochon adds to the allure of a watch backed by a calibre 430 MC mechanical movement.


It also features a rose gold case, guilloché-effect dial, and rose gold-finished steel apple-shaped hands. A green alligator-skin strap adorned with a traditional ardillon buckle of rose gold complements the jade green touches on the Roman numerals. For those measuring, XL here means 46.6 mm from lug to lug and 33.9 mm wide.


One version of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex comes with a dazzling dial cut from green aventurine – a stone thought to promote a sense of well-being. A bezel studded with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds encircles the arresting dial, whose hour markers are also diamond-set.


The calibre 3255 movement facilitates the display of the day, date, hours, minutes and seconds concurrently. As is standard with all Day-Date models since their launch in 1956, this timepiece has a three-piece link design President bracelet crafted from a precious metal, in this case 18-carat Everose gold.


A 41-mm 18-carat pink gold bezel circling a black ceramic case is the perfect counterpoint for the deep- green enamelled aventurine dial of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. This mesmerising effect is heightened by components that are hand-finished through satin brushing and polishing. Similarly, pink gold hour markers and hands beautifully complement the smoky green of the dial.


In the same vein, the dial’s compelling colour serves to highlight the flying tourbillon cage at six o’clock. Illusions of depth and light are created by a manufacturing process repeated multiple times, in which layers of glass sand are mixed with water, laid onto crushed aventurine glass, and then heated to more than 800oC in a dedicated oven. Resting above the dial, a glare-proof double-curved sapphire crystal accentuates this beautiful play of light.


Hublot produced only 100 Big Bang Unico Green Saxem watches, a robust 42 mm model that catches the eye. Case, caseback and bezel are all crafted from the brand’s fetching green Saxem alloy, a mix of sapphire aluminium oxide and rare-earth mineral.


The dial, made of black transparent composite material, is brightened by luminescence on its hands and indices in the same shade of green. The colour coding is amplified by a transparent green rubber strap, which comes with a titanium buckle clasp. Equipped with the in-house HUB 1280 movement, this self-winding flyback column-wheel chronograph has a power reserve of about 72 hours.


A beautiful dark-green dial is the distinguishing visual hallmark of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva, a bold 18-carat lime gold model limited to just 28 pieces and based on the historic calibre from 1923. In an intriguing technical innovation, the satinated and polished gold unidirectional fluted bezel activates the chronograph.


The dial sports beige luminescent green-coated hour and minute hands, a green-coated seconds hand, a gold-coated chronograph minute hand with a green tip, and a green chronograph seconds hand. The colour story is further augmented by an interchangeable green alligator- leather strap with a lime gold pin buckle.


Two of Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle hand-wound watches are an envious dark green, each showcasing a beautiful sunburst-decorated dial encased in 18-carat pink gold. The smaller version (33mm) is a sparkling standout, having a bezel populated by 54 brilliant round diamonds.


The caseback is transparent crystal, the dial has gold applied hour markers and hands, and the matching dark-green Mississippiensis alligator-leather strap with calfskin lining is fastened by a pink gold pin buckle.


In charming contrast to the white engraved dial, the distinctive green alligator leather of its bangle strap adds to the appeal of the ultra-feminine Joséphine Aigrette oval-faced timepiece from Chaumet. The Maison’s emblematic V-shaped aigrette is rendered in rose gold and brilliant-cut diamonds on this gem of a watch.


To celebrate the colour that symbolises prosperity, renewal and progress, the new dial of Vulcain’s Chronograph 1970s comes in a hue that evokes the iconic British racing green. The eye- catching design of the sunburst dial with its white or black indexes contrasts well with the leather or crocodile-pattern strap.