Almost before the annual intrigue that surrounds January’s SIHH watch convention had a chance to die down, the big beast of the horological world was upon us – Baselworld, the one time of year when every true chronogram fan knows exactly where they’ll be. From the thousands of timepieces on show, here’s our round-up of Baselworld highlights. 

Given the air of competitive camaraderie that always characterises Baselworld, there is a perennial temptation to toss convention to the wind and to court controversy with something wantonly outré. Thankfully, this was not the case with Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 Grand Feu Enamel. Despite its grandiose nomenclature, this timepiece duly shunned inapt sensationalism in favour of pristine, minimalist lines. And did so to considerable effect.

Available as an ultra-thin 7.45mm special edition, the piece boasted a Grand Feu enamel dial furnished with blued steel hour and minute hands. Taking place of pride at the five o’clock mark was a tourbillon, complete with a small seconds indicator on its axis – the only ostentatious flourish incorporated into this remarkably understated timepiece.

Another notably minimalist model was Jacquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel. Set with an elegant rose gold bezel, its stark black Grand Feu enamel dial served to enhance – rather than detract from – the brand’s signature ‘figure eight’ double-dial layout. The jewel in this particular timepiece’s crown, however, was its shining moon phase complication, neatly adorning the larger bottom dial, which completed the model’s knowing aura of ‘less is more’.

There is no reason, however, why minimalism should be synonymous with formality, with Chopard’s reimagined L.U.C Quattro a clear case in point. While this upgrade still boasts the haute horology house’s legendary precision and attention to detail, it does so with a degree of casual aplomb. This laid-back vibe is particularly manifested in the somewhat playful Arabic numbers set at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as its unusually jaunty blue strap.

For those more athletically-inclined, Tag Heuer’s Carrera Tête de Vipère may prove the trophy du jour. Marking 55 years since the debut of the Carrera line, this particular incarnation sports a bold midnight blue case, bezel and lugs, while clearly not lacking in the tourbillion, chronograph or chronometer departments. Available solely in a 155-piece limited edition, it’s set to become an instant collectors’ classic.

Baselworld highlights included plenty to entice discerning female watch enthusiasts. One particular example came in the form of Breitling’s Navitimer 1 Automatic 38. Neatly incorporating the brand’s calibre 17 movement, this automatic timepiece features both a bi-rotational slide rule bezel and luminescent Super-LumiNova hour and minute hands housed in a toned-down diameter of 38mm – the perfect sporty statement piece.  

For a more understated look, there was Omega’s new De Ville Trésor Quartz 36mm in Sedna Gold. Every inch of this stunning timepiece was imbued with a simple sophistication – from its delightfully delicate diamond-accented Sedna rose gold case and shimmering white opaline dial to its flower design embossed-caseback.

Nestling at the contrary end of the spectrum was Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, a statement wrist-adornment in anybody’s book. The traditional tachymetric scale on the bezel has, in this case, been superseded by multi-hued sapphires, creating an unmissable rainbow effect, while hour markers come set with correspondingly-coloured baguette-cut sapphires. Complete with a diamond-embedded 18-carat Everose gold case, the watch remains unabashedly flirtatiously feminine,

With thousands of the world’s most innovative timepieces once again devoting at Baselworld, singling out just one or two standouts surely short-changes the incomparable showcase. With one-off wonders at every turn and resurgent classics on every stand, a snapshot of the glory that is Baselworld is all that one reviewer could hope to render. It is tribute to the comprehensive brilliance on show, however, that even a brief perusal of Baselworld highlights provides quite so much to marvel at.

Text: Tenzing Thondup