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<p>Born on the slopes of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti provinces in Piedmont, north-western Italy, the wines of Alta Langa have fizzed into prominence in recent years. The Alta Langa Metodo Classico DOCG, created in 2011, is a relative newcomer in the region and the first to make quality sparkling wines from the ‘Champagne grapes’ of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the traditional method popularised by the great French houses.</p>



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<p>Erika Abate, Export Manager of Enrico Serafino, a fine producer of Alta Langa sparkling wines as well as the renowned Piedmont reds of Barolo and Barbaresco, has spent her whole adult life sampling the area’s vinicultural delights. She says the wines here exude an elegant character with a certain “over-the-top potential” that is best appreciated by a discerning palate. The hillside soils in this higher part of the Langhe wine region also allow the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes to express their full potential.</p>


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<p>“The Alta Langa is the only area where sparkling wine production has a minimum elevation of 250 metres above sea level, 30 months’ minimum ageing on lees and mandatory vintage on the label,” she notes, referring to the defining characteristics of this fast-rising bubbly and the shortest time it must be left in contact with leftover yeast sediment prior to secondary fermentation.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Perfect pedoclimate</h3>



<p>Abate points out that grape varieties with exceptional potential need perfect conditions in which to grow. “The two varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, have adapted so well in some areas of Piedmont, testifying to the fact that this is exceptional land not only for red wines but also for sparkling wines,” she says.</p>



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<p>In the pursuit of excellence in the Alta Langa appellation, the soil-exposure-altitude mix that creates a vineyard’s pedoclimate must be studied carefully. Analysis of soils that can be difficult to cultivate and optimisation of the region’s unique climatic conditions are essential to get the best results from the Pinot Noir grape – a process often requiring specific experience and expertise in the Méthode Traditionelle. “Each stage of the ‘method’ offers opportunities but also great risks,” she notes.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Seabed sediment</h3>



<p>She explains that soil origin is key to winemaking success in the wider Piedmont region. “The sedimentary soil of the Langhe originates from the Ligurian-Piedmontese Tertiary Basin that was created from the collision of the European and African plates,” she reveals, indicating that sediments can now be found which developed on the seabed between 12 and five million years ago during the Miocene era.</p>


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<p>“Over this time, the sea and the basin conditions changed dramatically and these changes are visible in the rock layers and the various geological formations. The presence of fish fossils and planktonic microorganisms, visible because of shifting soils, shows the richness of life and gave birth to its natural treasures.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Varietal character</h3>



<p>The main wines produced in Piedmont are the Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera reds, along with some extraordinary whites such as Gavi and Arneis, and sparkling Alta Langa. “My favourite wines are from the Alta Langa, Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Gavi appellations,” shares Abate. “I love the Alta Langa for their elegance, crispy acidity and the freshness that these wines can maintain over the years.”</p>



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<p>The uniqueness of pours derived from numerous grapes also appeals. “I love Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cortese because these are very terroir-sensitive grapes with a pleasant acidity and minerality, and a unique personality giving harmony to the other elements.”</p>



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<p>Abate praises the skilled winemakers in her favourite appellations for coaxing the best qualities from the soil and grapes. “They are bringing out varietal character of these grapes with an extraordinary longevity and tannins that are typical indicators of age ability. Moreover, they are great wines to be paired with food and always give a sense of place whenever you are,” she enthuses.</p>


High Italian: Alta Langa’s reputation for producing some of the best bubbles outside of Champagne is rising


<p>Wine produced in China received an initial boost when prestigious French names brought their expertise and financial clout to the table 40 years ago. Since those early days, winemaking in the mainland has grown considerably; it is now noted for its variety and, increasingly, its quality. </p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Crucial backing</h3>



<p>Just Wong, Executive Director of Beverage Operations at Wynn Macau, attributes the remarkable growth of the Chinese wine industry over the past decade to central government investment in the major wine regions in the late 1990s. He also highlights an upshot of professional expertise over recent years, such as at universities, enabling new generations of wine-industry professionals with easier access to information, knowledge and expertise. “The market primarily targets mainland Chinese consumers who are adventurous and open to try new products, including a younger consumer group,” he says.&nbsp;</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Award Wynners</h3>



<p>Last year, the luxury Macau hotel hosted the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards, which served as a platform for wine experts from various regions in China to collaborate, exchange knowledge and promote Chinese wines on a larger international stage. Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 from Ningxia was the competition’s brightest star, garnering the Best Wine of China Trophy. Its quality so impressed during rigorous judging that it was also awarded the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia. </p>


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<p>Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021, also from Ningxia, won two trophies, Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco-Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 from Hebei was hailed as Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Bettering the French</h3>



<p>According to Master of Wine Richard Hemming, the quality of wine in China is clearly improving, especially at the top end of the market. “This is thanks to significant investment, plus the increasing experience of producers,” he says. “With every vintage, they are learning more about what works best for their terroir.” </p>



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<p>Like the vast majority of the so-called New World wines, most of the best wines from China are produced according to classic European techniques. “I’ve been in blind tastings where Chinese wines have beaten established French classics, so there is no question that the excellence is already there,” states Hemming, who also serves as Head of Wine for Asia at 67 Pall Mall, a group of private members’ clubs exclusively for wine lovers. This uplift in the quality of Chinese output comes at a time when global wine output is falling and competitive pressures are intensifying – market dynamics which could affect the growth of the industry. “I think growth will continue but at a slower rate,” opines the Singapore-based MW. “Around the world, consumption is falling and global trade outlooks are uncertain, so there is understandable caution about investing in wine production. Even so, the individual passions of producers will ensure that new, exciting wines continue to emerge from China.”</p>


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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Pick of the crop</h3>



<p>Given that so many Chinese growers are making great wines in numerous different styles, Hemming does not have a single favourite wine from the country. “I’ve tasted more wine from Ningxia than anywhere else, which shows that quality can be achieved in everything from classic bottle-fermented sparkling to expressive Pinot Noir to powerful Bordeaux blends,” he says. The superb wines of Ao Yun and Célèbre underscore Yunnan’s reputation as a region of great potential. “The former combines forthright black fruit with impressive earthy complexity as it ages, while the latter offers an orchard-full of fruit as well as a gastronomic chalkiness that bears comparison with some of the best of Burgundy,” says Hemming.&nbsp;</p>


Fine China: Chinese wine producers have upped their quality to challenge the French classics that inspired them


<p>Located in the province of Brescia in Lombardy, Italy, the spectacular wine region of Franciacorta has blossomed into one of the gems of global viticulture. This tiny area is famed for the quality of its sparkling wines, whose most enthusiastic devotees say are a match for some of the finest Champagnes. It is exactly 30 years since these remarkable bubbles – produced using the traditional method – were awarded full DOCG classification, Italy&#8217;s top rank of wine-producing regions.</p>



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<p>Though the area is situated in southern Europe, which is generally blessed with a warm climate, many of the vineyards are planted near the southern shores of Lake Iseo in the foothills of the Alps. Temperatures here are dampened by cold air descending from the mountain slopes, preventing the fruit from over-ripening in the sun. The lakeside locale is crucial in moderating this effect, providing a micro-climate suited to making some of the world’s best sparkling wines. Ultimately, the unique geography of the area enables the high level of acidity required for top-quality fizz.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sparkling star</h3>



<p>Alex Wai, Sommelier at Grissini, one of Hong Kong’s most prestigious Italian restaurants, reveals the area’s rolling hills were shaped by glacial action. He praises its glacial moraine soil, comprising gravel and sand over limestone, as ideal for the cultivation of grapes.</p>


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<p>Wai says the reputation of the Franciacorta wine region has surged over recent years. He is fond of Franciacorta’s graceful ‘blanc de blancs’ style bubbles, which showcase the unique regional style. His favourite, though, is Essence Noir produced by Antica Fratta.</p>



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<p>Describing the character of this wine, he notes: “It is a pure expression of Pinot Nero from the Franciacorta area – complex on the palate but offering an underlying elegance in style.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Ancient modernity</h3>



<p>The Antica Fratta project was launched in 1979 by Franco Ziliani, who pioneered the first Franciacorta winery, Guido Berlucchi. Desiring to create a new high-quality sparkling wine that would be distinct from the original estate and not interfere with existing operations, Ziliani drew upon the splendours of the newly renovated 19th-century cellars of a beautiful villa in the Fratta area of Monticelli Brusati.</p>



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<p>Realising his vision, Antica Fratta has evolved to produce superior sparkling wines. The delicate Essence Satèn is particularly noteworthy, being made entirely from white grapes – Chardonnay, albeit with the allowance of some Pinot Bianco.</p>


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<p>“Our Essence line is a vintage wine that has spent a minimum of three to four years in contact with the yeast before its dégorgement, and more than a year in bottle,” says Cristian Maddelana, a leading Italy-based wine consultant who has long advised the estate.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Black magic</h3>



<p>In Franciacorta like other regions around the world, the pervasive effect of climate change and warming temperatures is threatening the fine balance that enables great wines to be produced. Careful management of the vines and harvest times has been necessary to maintain quality, but one side effect has been that black grapes such as Pinot Nero now fare better than before. Antica Fratta now produces a ‘blanc de noirs’ style made entirely from this famous Bourgogne varietal (where it is called Pinot Noir), the aptly named Essence Noir.</p>



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<p>Maddelana says the production at the Antica Fratta estate is now focused on this style made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. “This technical characteristic, combined with the terroir-driven expression of the Pinot Noir from our region, makes the wine creamy and structured on the nose, with a golden colour, yet expressing with freshness and finesse on the palate – all of this underpinned by its minerality and acidity,” he enthuses.</p>


Lombardy Sparkle: Franciacorta’s quality bubbles are sparking a real buzz in the wine world


<p>The Coonawarra region has played a major role in the transformation of Australia’s wine industry over recent decades. It is situated in the southeast corner of South Australia on the Limestone Coast with the tiny town of Coonawarra at its heart.</p>



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<p>The region has garnered a fine reputation for producing Cabernet Sauvignon wines. “It is a region that has often been compared to Bordeaux in terms of its climate, in terms of its temperature, its growing degree days,” says Steph Dutton, Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker.</p>



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<p>The area possesses a cooler climate compared to much of Australia and since the sea is only about 60 kilometres away, it falls under a maritime influence. However, it is the soil in the Coonawarra wine region that is widely considered its defining characteristic – and the reason why it has become so adept at making outstanding wines.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Top soil</h3>



<p>Italian for red soil, Coonawarra’s famed terra rossa is a permeable light clay over a weathered limestone base that drains well, providing ample air for the vine roots to thrive.</p>



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<p>Dutton shares that Penfolds has dug a soil pit in one of its Coonawarra vineyards to view and analyse the amazing soil profile in finer detail. “Across all of the different layers, you’ve got this lovely warm red terra rossa – red soil, a dust almost,” she says.</p>


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<p>“This soil profile gives a real sense of place for all wines from Coonawarra and it’s distinctive,” she explains, crediting its unique makeup for the area’s ability to produce premium wines. “These are A-grade wines at the top end of the tree,” she enthuses.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Big three</h3>



<p>Aside from Penfolds wines produced in Coonawarra, Dutton admires the output of Wynns Coonawarra Estate and wines from Katnook Estate, especially their recent “very strong” vintages. Receiving her seal of approval, she states: “These are wines that are in my own cellar. They’re probably the big three for me.”</p>



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<p>“One of the winemakers that I really admire in Coonawarra is Sue Hodder, the Chief Winemaker for Wynns,” she says. “Wynns are famous for making medium-bodied Cabernets, in particular, that are elegant, a little bit lighter, less heavy and less tannic, but still capable of ageing.”</p>


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<p>Dutton also admires the way Hodder has continued to push boundaries and get better and better for Wynns.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Vine age</h3>



<p>A recent addition to the Penfolds collection is a particular favourite – the 2021 Bin 180 released to mark the estate’s 180th anniversary. “It is a blend of both Cabernet and Shiraz blocks, which were both planted in the ’60s and ’70s,” she elaborates. “So not only are they planted in the unique terra rossa soils of Coonawarra, but they’ve got vine age on them now as well.</p>



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<p>“For wines made from older vines, it’s a little bit like people sometimes – with age you’ve got wisdom, you’ve got character. They are unafraid to express themselves at that stage,” she explains. “The old vine material; a quintessential Australian blend; and the fact that it’s from Coonawarra – this is the trio that brings Bin 180 together.”</p>
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Bonded by soil</h3>



<p>Coonawarra wines are tied by a common thread, according to Dutton. They are bonded by the region’s unique soil profile and its influence on the tastes and aromas of the wines produced.</p>



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<p>“[When describing these wines] I often talk about brick dust in terms of texture – more of a powdery, dusty tannin profile rather than too chalky or blocky for the bigger tannins,” she emphasises. “I also see a lot of savoury notes come through from Coonawarra. By savoury, I mean non-fruit descriptors. I might talk about cured meat, pink peppercorn, dried herbs, sage [and] bay leaf.”</p>


Down to Earth: Coonawarra’s terrific terra rossa is at the root of its world-class wines  


<p>The beautiful Rhône wine region in southern France has been making wine since the Roman times and its reputation has blossomed over recent years. Stretching down from Vienne to Avignon and carpeted with vineyards, this famous valley has two separate sub-regions with distinct viticultural traditions – the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône.</p>



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<p>Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône are two completely different regions, insists Master of Wine Richard Hemming, speaking of one of his favourite winemaking areas. “The north is famous for making reds from Syrah, usually unblended, while the south blends more than a dozen different varieties to make a wide range of styles – including, most famously, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,” he says.</p>



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<p>The two sub-regions are noted for having contrasting climatic conditions, thus affecting the types of grapes that will thrive.</p>



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<p>Continental influences in the north can produce harsh winters and warm summers, while in the south the weather patterns are governed by a Mediterranean climate, with milder winters and hot summers.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Power play</h3>



<p>Singapore-based Hemming, who serves as Head of Wine, Asia, for the 67 Pall Mall group of wine-loving private members’ clubs, is quite forthright in the appeal of the region’s wines. “The Rhône is all about power, but that doesn’t necessarily mean full-bodied,” he says. “Syrah from the north has intense black fruit but can be surprisingly perfumed too, with peppercorn and violet aromas.”</p>


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<p>Comparing the northern wines with the tastes and aromas of its sister sub-region, he notes: “In the south, flavours are more like ripe red fruit, with sweet spices and often a herbal scent which is attributed to garrigue – the herbal scrub that grows naturally in and around the vineyards.”</p>



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<p>The vast majority of wines are red, though both the north and south also produce whites, and he reveals that these are growing in popularity and prominence. “It’s this eclectic variation in styles that makes the Rhône such a rich region to discover,” he says.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Rhône reasons</h3>



<p>According to Hemming, there is no one single overriding reason why the Rhône wine region produces such outstanding wines. “Like all great wine regions, it’s a combination of factors,” he says, citing its long winemaking tradition and evolving combination of variety, soil and climate.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sense of mystery</h3>



<p>He opines that some factors are simply unknowable, and pinpoints an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the Northern Rhône by way of example. “There is a degree of mystery: why does Hermitage create the most complex Syrah in the world? There’s no single answer to this kind of question – and it’s that which keeps us coming back for more.”</p>


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<p>Hemming says the “humble” Côtes du Rhône appellation produces the most important wine in the region in terms of sheer volume. “In both red and white – and even rosé – for my money this is the best-value classic wine you can find.” One of his favourite tipples from the valley is Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône red, which has been his long-standing “bargain weekday treat”.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">World class</h3>



<p>When considering the reputation of a wine, he cites Châteauneuf-du-Pape as the most famous red of the Southern Rhône, due to its global recognition. “However, Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, both from the Northern Rhône, while much smaller in size, are also world-renowned among wine lovers,” he adds.</p>



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<p>“[Domaine Jean-Louis] Chave Hermitage represents the best-of-the-best for Syrah and is still good value if you compare it to top Burgundy and Bordeaux,” he enthuses. “For an undiscovered choice, I love the reds of Duché d’Uzès, a blend of Syrah and Grenache from the Southern Rhône.”</p>


Freedom to Rhone: From Hermitage to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there’s plenty to savour in this red valley


<p>Being situated at a far more southerly latitude has blessed Tasmania with a cooler climate and rendered it much distinct from other areas of viticulture in Australia. This gives the wines made in the island state unique characteristics compared to those across the country’s continental landmass. Popular grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.</p>



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<p>“In between Tasmania and Antarctica is nothing except for the Antarctic Ocean, so it’s an incredibly cool climate, which is fantastic for Chardonnay, in particular, but Pinot Noir and sparkling wine production as well,” says Steph Dutton, Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Southern cool</h3>



<p>Explaining its attraction for viticulturalists, she notes: “What people should really understand is that whilst Tasmania is cool and lies to south, it’s actually still quite dry, which are perfect conditions for growing grapes.”</p>


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<p>She opines that the best examples of Australian Chardonnay herald from Tasmania. These super Tasmanian whites stand in contrast to the rest of Australia’s winemaking history with Chardonnay.</p>



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<p>“Once upon a time, like 20 years ago, maybe more, our Chardonnays were incredibly ripe. They were buttery, often quite deep in colour and full of oak, and rarely would they age,” she says. “The big shift that happened in the Australian wine industry is we started to look at some cooler climate regions for that variety.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Full pleasure</h3>



<p>Dutton believes the cool climate of Tasmania and the dry conditions that lead to fairly safe growing seasons are a brilliant match for Chardonnay. “We get Chardonnay wines that are full of grip and structure, but also finesse and elegance,” she says. “[Chardonnays] should be intense; they should be full, but they should also show restraint and raciness, and Tasmania does that.”</p>


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<p>Penfolds has vineyards in the prime wine regions of South Australia including Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley and Coonawarra. It also owns vineyards in northern and southern Tasmania and partners with growers in the state. More than 85% of grapes in some vintages of its flagship Yattarna Chardonnay are sourced from Tasmania. Though technically not labelled as hailing from Tasmania, the state “has played more and more a pivotal role in this Yattarna production”.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Citrus and cream</h3>



<p>Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay is one of her favourite wines and she quickly recalls its beautiful, mouthwatering combination of tastes. “I always see this lovely what I call citrus curd, like lemon meringue pies, lemon tarts and lime tarts, where you’ve got both citrus and creaminess all coming together at once,” she says. “We often talk about the nougat with Yattarna, and I see it as still being quite fresh, almost like a pistachio nougat that comes through for the wine.” She also highlights the excellence of the Tasmanian Chardonnays emanating from Pooley Wines in the Coal River Valley and Derwent Estate in the Derwent Valley, both located in southern Tasmania, not far from the capital, Hobart.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Tannic grip</h3>



<p>“These are wines that I really admire for the phenolic grip, their structure, and by that I mean how the wine feels in terms of shape in the mouth,” she says. “You don’t want anything that is too buttery. You don’t want anything that is too soft or oily, but you also don’t want anything that’s too firm and tight.” She likes to talk about the bones of a wine – the skeleton, its structure, the framework that is holding it together. “Both of these wines have this amazing structure. Indeed, all three of my favourites share the common thread that they are built for age-ability,” she says.</p>


Super Tasmanians: Grapes from the island state have transformed Australian Chardonnay and gripped the wine world


<p>Steeped in winemaking history, the Barossa Valley is home to some of Australia’s most renowned wineries and vineyards. Located northeast of Adelaide in South Australia, the storied region was planted by English and German settlers and boasts remarkable old vines dating back to the 1840s.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>“Community is very much at the heart of this region, and it is the combination of community spirit, old-world vines and generational family grape growers that really makes it special for me,” says Con Simos, Research and Development Manager at Casella Family Brands, Australia’s largest family-owned wine company.&nbsp;</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Winemaker’s paradise</h3>



<p>He says: “It’s blessed with diverse terroir, including eight major types of soil, a range of altitudes and some of Australia’s oldest vines.” Embracing both warm-climate and cool-climate growing conditions and a diverse range of soils “makes it ideal for producing a wide variety of wines, from powerful, full-bodied reds to elegant white wines. The Barossa Valley is a winemaker’s paradise!”</p>


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<p>Those rich, full-bodied wines are Shiraz, for which the region has garnered a prodigious reputation around the globe. “The age of its Shiraz vines adds a layer of heritage and depth, contributing to their distinctive character and longevity,” says Simos. He also notes that the Eden Valley sub-region produces phenomenal Riesling. Cooler temperatures in this elevated locale contribute to the crafting of vibrant, aromatic Rieslings with a unique expression of the terroir. </p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sensational Shiraz</h3>



<p>But it’s the world-class Shiraz that continue to grab the headlines. Peter Lehmann’s Stonewell, for instance, stands alongside Penfolds and Henschke as pillars of excellence in the Barossa Valley. “Red wines like the revered Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace highlight the depth, complexity and age-worthiness that have made Barossa wines legendary on the global stage,” says Simos. &nbsp;</p>



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<p>First up of Simos’ favourite Barossa pours is one of the names under the Casella Family Brands umbrella, the 2017 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz. “The secret to Stonewell Shiraz is the outstanding quality of what our founder, Peter Lehmann, refers to as ‘little black jewels’ – grapes drawn exclusively from low-yielding vineyards that produce sparse bunches with tiny, but intensely flavoured fruit,” he notes.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Cool class</h3>



<p>Simos suggests the 2017 vintage will be remembered for its exceptional elegance and purity of fruit. “The palate is rich with fine, pure tannins – an abundance of blueberry, violet, earth and clove. Long and blue-fruited, it demonstrates a cool vintage in the Barossa while retaining stereotypical fruit ripeness and intensity.” He adds: “The oak is seamlessly integrated, almost imperceptible.”&nbsp;</p>



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<p>Stonewell Shiraz is an ideal pairing for rich meat dishes like roast beef, he proffers, and is equally enjoyable alongside cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, aged Cheddar and Grana Padano. &nbsp;</p>


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<p>Another recommendation is 2018 Penfolds St Henri, which has seductive dark fruit and sweet plum aromas with dark chocolate and graphite. He hails its “inky and sinuous palate with plentiful ripe blackberry and mulberry, fine chalky tannins, superb mid-palate viscosity and underlying chinotto and roasted walnut notes”.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>Rounding off his top three most-desired tipples is Henschke 2021 Tappa Pass. A resplendent dark crimson with violet hues in the glass, its fragrant nose opens to ripe plum, black cherry, blueberry, rose petal, anise and mace, with hints of black pepper, cedar, sage and charcuterie. “The palate is rich, plush and complex with blue fruit, mulberry, violets and plum, balanced by layers of fine velvety tannins delivering great depth and length,” he praises.</p>


Barossa Ambrosia: While the whites entice, red is the valley in Australia’s most revered wine region


<p>Napa Valley famously came to global prominence when its pours delivered outstanding results at the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976. Previously considered a winemaking backwater, this beautiful slice of California is now regarded as one of the world’s winemaking hotspots.</p>



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<p>Robert Biale’s family has been involved in the area since the 1900s and he is still intimately connected with the wines produced here. “Napa Valley is a big name yet a very small place: it is 30 miles by five miles and sits one hour north of the Golden Gate Bridge with 47,000 planted acres and only 4% of California grapes,” he says.</p>



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<p>The region benefits from cool nights and ocean breezes along with morning fog that combine to produce moderate temperatures. “Napa contains half of the world’s soil groups which allow multiple varieties to thrive,” adds Biale.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Zinfandel standouts</h3>


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<p>Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes are now most common, with Cabernet Sauvignon the king of the valley. This was not always the case, however. Prior to 1970, it was the heritage varieties of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah that populated Napa, having been planted from the mid-19th century.</p>



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<p>Though Biale savours many Cabernets, like those from Spottswoode and Mayacamas, and Chardonnays such as Stony Hill and HdV, he much prefers the local Zinfandels because of their versatility for food pairing, their bright, fresh yet rich qualities, and their mouthwatering flavours.</p>



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<p>Describing the tastes and aromas of his own Zinfandels from Robert Biale Vineyards, he highlights the layered notes of blackberry preserves, raspberry, violet, cocoa, anise and cherry wood on the nose, with flavours of plum, black cherry, baking spices, dried herbs and pomegranate. “They offer rich fruit, delicate acidity and a structure defined by well-ripened, fine-grained tannins,” he says.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sunny highs</h3>


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<p>Richard Bischoff, a Certified Sake Professional, is also enthusiastic about Napa Valley wines. “For fans of Bordeaux wines, Napa is a place where fruit can reach its full potential, largely due to the sunny weather,” he says. Certainly, its dry Mediterranean climate and large diurnal shift from daytime highs to night-time lows allow the grapes to ripen slowly and keep their acidity.</p>



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<p>Bischoff highlights the geographical dispersion of wines produced in the region, with the hotter northern Napa ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, and the cooler Los Carneros area better for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.</p>



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<p>“If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, then the Carneros region in southern Napa is a wonderful place for Burgundian-style wines, due to its proximity to the ocean breezes from the northern end of San Francisco Bay,” he stresses. “Napa wines tend to express the best combination of weather and terroir.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Full fruit</h3>



<p>For Bischoff, it is the fuller flavours of Napa wines compared to other regions that is the main characteristic of their superior quality. “Cabernets, to me, tend to really show flavours of blackberries, cherries and other dark fruits,” he says.</p>



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<p>“The Sauvignon Blancs show aromas and flavours of tropical fruits, such as mango and pineapple, and are delicious on a hot summer day, while the Chardonnay can be full and rich, with aromas and flavours of lemon, butterscotch, toast and vanilla, especially if aged in French oak.”</p>



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<p>He likes the elegance of the Biale Zinfandel, especially its iconic Black Chicken label. Another preferred choice is Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, which he praises as “just amazing”. He also believes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from Clos du Val are fantastic expressions of the region.</p>


California Cleaning: Napa Valley has a depth of fruit beyond its star Cabernet Sauvignons


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<p>Situated in northeast Victoria, the Rutherglen wine region is steeped in winemaking tradition, with family wineries dating back 150 years. The wineries are located just a short drive from the small town of Rutherglen, whose great gastro pubs and wine bars now draw in visitors.</p>
</div><figure class="wp-block-media-text__media"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="683" height="1024" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-683x1024.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-82393 size-full" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-683x1024.jpeg 683w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-187x280.jpeg 187w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-768x1152.jpeg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-1024x1536.jpeg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-1365x2048.jpeg 1365w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-200x300.jpeg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-800x1200.jpeg 800w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/DSCF9199-scaled.jpeg 1707w" sizes="(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px" /></figure></div>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">More than Muscat</h3>



<p>Blessed with a stable warm and dry climate, the region is traditionally noted for its sweet fortified wine styles. Rutherglen winemaker Michael Murtagh says: “It’s home of the world’s greatest Muscats and big smooth reds,” he says. “These are deliciously rich fortified wines and lovely smooth red wines.” Bold, dark and tannic Durif is a regional speciality; Shiraz and similar varieties also thrive.</p>



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<p>Murtagh co-owns Buller Wines, one of the Rutherglen producers “driving to welcome new, younger wine explorers with crunchy Pinot Grigio, Prosecco and Pinot Noir”. He adds: “We seek out the red clay loams for planting the vines as these provide good drainage and are deep and rich.”</p>



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<p>Apart from the climate and soil, he notes two other influences that play a critical role in the Rutherglen success story. Firstly, there is ample water from the Murray River for supplementary irrigation in the dry summers to negate vine stress. The Great Dividing Range, a series of mountains, plateaus and rolling hills stretching more than 3,500 kilometres, also plays a part by “shedding cold air at night, giving us cool nights and mornings for the vines to recover and develop fruit flavours”.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Glory of the glen</h3>



<p>One of his favourite wines for occasional indulgence is the Buller Wines 1968 Calliope Rare Frontignac. “The sheer depth and cleanness, along with the extraordinary rareness of our single vineyard and vintage Frontignac make it a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” he notes of this fortified wine.</p>



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<p>Murtagh reveals that Muscats can be young or old depending on the winemaker’s plans. “The older Muscats are like Mum’s Christmas pudding, spice and raisins on the nose rich, while being vibrantly layered and textured on the plate – fantastic rare treats to be savoured,” he says. “The younger Muscats are fresher fruit styles showing the grape’s fruitiness and cleanness – enjoy with dessert or that last cup of coffee before bed.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Wines of the King</h3>



<p>Murtagh also highlights the King Valley, an hour’s drive south of Rutherglen. Its advantageous Great Dividing Range location supports two unique microclimates. “The valley is very fertile – high rainfall, rich valley-floor sedimentary soils, and amazing ancient volcanic lava steep ridges on each side,” he says.</p>



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<p>The high-altitude ridges are particularly suitable for Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay table wine showing “fruit-forward peach and nashi pear with crunchy natural acidity”, as well as premium sparkling cuvées.</p>



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<p>A benefit of being up on the ridge is constant air movement for disease control. The rising sun hits the canopy early, drying it out and stimulating vine photosynthesis. “The ancient lava flows are incredibly fertile but act as sponges releasing water easily and creating the right amount of irrigation for the vineyards,” he explains. The less fertile, slightly warmer east-facing slopes on the valley floor are the perfect environment for riper white wines and later ripening varieties like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">The high life</h3>



<p>Pinot Noir is Murtagh’s favourite cool-climate wine, the higher-elevation vineyards of the King Valley yield, in his view, truly great Pinot Noir.</p>



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<p>“These wines are not deep red but lighter than traditional Aussie reds; spice and dark cherry dominate the nose, with some oak flavour for complexity. The palate is filled with sweet cherry fruit up front, and in the high-extreme vineyards they show a beautiful clean acidic finish.”</p>


Victoria Rises: Head northeast of stately Yarra Valley to discover many more amazing Australian wines 


<p>Among other attractions, Scotland is known throughout the world for its wonderful Scotch whisky. There has been something of a renaissance of the industry over recent years, and now there are about 140 distilleries producing Scotch, which can be malt whisky (made from malted barley) or grain whisky (unmalted barley, wheat, rye, maize), or a blend of the two. It must be aged in oak barrels for at least three years upon distillation.</p>



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<p>The most prized of the types of Scotch whiskies is single malt, which as the name suggests is whisky produced wholly from malt in one distillery. Malted barley produces a richer, sweeter tipple than the spicier, more robust drink of its not-malted-grain cousin.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="683" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-1024x683.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-82028" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-420x280.jpg 420w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Whisky_01-2-800x534.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">High quality</h3>



<p>“The Highlands offer dramatically beautiful locations that yield distinctively bold and elegantly balanced whiskies,” says Keith Archer of Seeking Infinity Limited, a luxury assets firm specialising in art and whisky.</p>



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<p>Archer believes the area is perfect for making whisky for a variety of factors. “Due to the Gulf Stream, the Highlands have a milder, damp marine climate compared to other Scottish regions. Longer summers are also better for barley production,” he points out.</p>



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<p>Highland distilleries are often ideally located, taking advantage of the many coastal and inland locations. “Rivers like the Spey, Ness and Orchy provide soft, mineral-rich water from granite, sandstone and schist rock, which is an exceptional water source for whisky distilleries,” explains Archer.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Whisky galore</h3>



<p>He highlights the diversity of the Highland whisky makers, from those producing lighter inland malts to others that he describes as “more robustly ocean-influenced coastal renditions”.</p>



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<p>“The Glenmorangie distillery produces whisky that elicits delicate citrus flavours like orange and lemon with hints of vanilla and tropical fruit,” he says of the distillery founded in 1843 in Tain, in the far north of Scotland.</p>



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<p>Fettercairn is located in the foothills of the Cairngorm mountain range and produces a single malt whisky that is “rich and creamy with butterscotch, honey, white chocolate and toasted nuts”.</p>



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<p>At Glengoyne, a distillery not far from Glasgow, they use a slower distilling process than other brands, resulting in a supremely smooth single malt. Archer describes this tipple as “honeyed, floral and vanilla-laced with heather, apples and pears”.</p>



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<p>To characterise the whisky produced at GlenDronach, founded in 1826 and one of Scotland’s oldest licenced distilleries, he turns to a Christmas theme. “Its flavours are rounded and full-bodied with raisins, prunes, Christmas cake and a Sherry-wine influence,” he says.</p>



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<p>At the foot of the Central Highlands, in the heart of the scenic Perthshire countryside, is the distillery of Aberfeldy. According to Archer, its whisky is “light-bodied and floral with notes of honey, orange peel and creamy vanilla”.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Singular form</h3>



<p>He is most partial to the following trio of Highland spirits: The Dalmore, Royal Brackla and Deanston.</p>



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<p>Produced for over 180 years, the Dalmore is known for its depth and finesse that hails from hand-selected casks. “Dalmore has a complex structure with dates, prunes, maple and Sherry-soaked raisins plus hints of smoke,” says Archer. Royal Brackla – which has the honour of being one of the few distilleries granted a Royal warrant – produces whiskies of “delicate complexity with a light peat influence and notes of honey, citrus and orchard fruit like pears”. The single malt produced by Deanston also emits fruity tones, while appearing floral and subtly smoky on the palate as well “with pear drops, plums and hints of bonfire”.</p>


Exalted Malts: Whisky produced in the Scottish Highlands raises the bar for tipplers the world over


<p>Champagne is synonymous with sparkling wine the world over, but the uniqueness of its precious provenance is stringently protected. Only sparkling wine made and bottled in the Champagne region in the traditional method can be called Champagne and no other bubbles come close as symbols of luxury and celebration. </p>



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<p>Sara Checchi, Group Head Sommelier and Beverage Manager of restaurant group Maximal Concepts, has always been intrigued by Champagne due to its unique history, terroir and production techniques. The 50 years from 1670 to 1720 were a turning point for the region as this was when specific techniques for making sparkling wines were developed. Legendary Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon played a significant role in perfecting the méthod Champenoise, or the traditional method, in which wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide and thus the effervescence essential for its sparkling quality.</p>



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<p>Aside from the fascinating history of the area, Checchi also adores the beauty of the landscape, its villages and “the breathtaking panoramic view over the vineyards”.&nbsp; The hillsides, houses and cellars of Champagne were added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 2015.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Climate impact&nbsp;</h3>



<p>Checchi says Champagne benefits from a unique combination of both oceanic and continental climatic influences, being neither too cold in winter nor too hot in summer, in which grapevines used in making the region’s famed pour – predominately Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier – thrive. </p>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="576" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-1024x576.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-81550" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-498x280.jpg 498w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-768x432.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-200x113.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Fields-800x450.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure></div>


<p>The soil in the area, located 90 miles east of Paris, also contributes in an incisive way. “Deep in Champagne subsoil are layers of sedimentary rocks composed of chalk, marl and limestone. This type of subsoil allows for good drainage,” explains Checchi. </p>



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<p>She does warn, however, that the continental influences can lead to freezing temperatures in winter, bringing frosts that can be devastating for the vineyards, and this occasional occurrence makes Champagne a challenging wine-growing area.&nbsp;</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Salon salute</h3>



<p>Asked for her Champagne of choice, Checchi unhesitatingly plumps for Salon. “It is definitely my favourite Champagne!” she exclaims. “It is produced from a single grape variety, namely Chardonnay, and comes from a single great terroir – Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru in the Côte des Blancs.”  </p>



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<p>This exceptional Champagne is only made in years when conditions are perfect. “Salon is produced just in the best vintages; little more than 35 vintages were produced in a whole century!” she says. “Doubtless this is not a bottle for daily consumption because of its price and the difficulty of its availability in the market.” </p>



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<p>The thought of this rare pleasure makes every sip of “the experience memorable, every single time I get the chance to drink it”. She believes the wine has a magical, almost potent effect: “If eternal youth exists, Salon definitely knows its secret recipe!”                                                               </p>



<div class="wp-block-media-text alignwide is-stacked-on-mobile"><figure class="wp-block-media-text__media"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="768" height="1024" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3-768x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-81551 size-full" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3-210x280.jpg 210w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3-200x267.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/3.jpg 1512w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /></figure><div class="wp-block-media-text__content">
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<p>Despite Salon’s rarity, Checchi has savoured the tipple on enough occasions to be able to compare different vintages. “Even though I have had the honour of drinking many vintages from the maison, the one that is still in my heart is Salon 1997,” she reveals. She was extremely impressed by its youth when she tasted it in January 2020, yet “the nose is complex”. </p>



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<p>Describing some of the tastes and aromas of her favourite vintage, she enthuses: “The 1997 is wonderfully refined, its minerality complemented by hints of white flowers. A salty note enhances aromas of bread crust, brioche with a little hint of green apple, and hazelnut.” Her appreciation becomes more infectious as she describes the mouthfeel, which “shows the very essence of Salon, dynamic and energetic. The mousse [sparkling-wine foam] caresses the tongue with the sensuality of silk, and there are rich and persistent flavours of ripe peach, honey and smoked tea.”</p>


Top Of The Pops: Uncorking a bottle of Champagne is a slice of the finest things in life


<p>China has produced wine from grapes for centuries, and in recent years the vast country has become one of the world’s largest consumers of wine. The fruits of each winemaking region have their own distinct characteristics, and many local wineries have developed strong ties with overseas viticulturalists.</p>



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<p>Master of Wine Fongyee Walker, co-founder of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting and a specialist wine educator, can attest to the fact that many regions in China are crafting great wine.</p>



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<p>Walker singles out three notable regions producing wines of character: Shandong for their gentle quality shaped by a maritime climate; Shangri- La in northwest Yunnan for the magnificent scenery and the freshness and vibrancy of its wines; and Xinjiang because of the vivacity of the culture “and the wonderful food that goes so well with the rich wines from that desert sun”.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Elegant Shandong</h3>



<p>Winemaking in Shandong centres around Yantai on the northwest coast of the peninsula. “Shandong produces lovely wine,” says Walker. “The granite soils and the sea breezes coming off the bay allow so much of its coastal region to produce elegant wines.”</p>



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<p>As a white-wine lover – “though not necessarily typical wines” – she is particularly fond of the gentle Chardonnays emanating from there, while the elegant Cabernet Francs with hints of leafiness also appeal. She notes: “It’s all about elegance, a refreshingness brought by that maritime acidity.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Yunnan fruit</h3>



<p>The mountain vineyards in Shangri-La reach as high as 3,000 metres, creating huge diurnal variation and giving the wines vibrant acidity and a pureness to their fruit. “That diurnal swing, those cold nights with very sunny days high up in the mountains, bring refreshing but ripe flavours,” she says.</p>



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<p>Shangri-La reds excite the palate: “They produce really gorgeous Cabernets with a depth of fruit and a really refreshing mouthfeel,” she notes, adding: “Their Pinot Noir is a potential great star.” And speaking of her favourite whites: “Their Chardonnays are different from the Shandong style, and they offer a vibrancy of pure orchard fruit.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Xinjiang riches</h3>



<p>As for Xinjiang, Walker believes the desert landscape and crystal-clear sunshine have a profound effect on the quality of the wine produced, noting there is a warmth and beautiful roundness and richness in the wines there. “It’s hot, but this means that the red wines are full of fruit, and they have this wonderful, healthy fruitiness to them with beautiful tannins,” she says.</p>



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<p>When China-based Walker travels to Xinjiang, she looks forward to pouring these rich reds, particularly the Syrah-Merlot blend. “It is so full of fruit and wonderful with the roast lamb of the area.” She is also partial to an Italian Riesling-style wine infused with green tea, which she describes as “a unique and favourite wine of mine. It has an aroma of jasmine flowers exploding.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Perfect pairing</h3>



<p>When planning a visit to Ningxia in north-central China, another key wine-growing area, she thinks of their beautiful Marselan grapes and how well these wines go with roasted Tan Yang lamb. The local Tan species of lamb is, she opines, “one of the most delicious lambs of the world. What a perfect match!”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Grape achievements</h3>



<p>Walker was on the distinguished panel of judges including three Masters of Wine and three Master Sommeliers at the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards held in Macau last month. Significantly, the event gives valuable feedback to those who don’t win trophies. “It provides a roadmap for producers all across China with different styles of wine – how to go forward, how to improve and bring their wine to new levels of quality,” she says.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Winners revealed!</h3>



<p>Following the rigorous judging process, Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 was honoured with the coveted Best Wine of China Trophy. Its exceptional quality also earned it the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia. Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021 won two trophies, including Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 received the Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China titles.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Chinese Wine Month</h3>



<p>Wynn is set to host ‘Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Month’ promotion in May, a celebration of Chinese wine excellence with a symphony of global gastronomy. Throughout the month, guests can experience specially curated wine pairing tasting menus at Wynn’s prestigious dining venues, including Chef Tam’s Seasons, Lakeview Palace, SW Steakhouse and Mizumi at Wynn Palace as well as Golden Flower, Wing Lei, Lakeside Trattoria and Mizumi at Wynn Macau.</p>



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<p>For a casual alternative, visitors can also participate in tasting flights featuring the prizewinning wines at Wynn’s various bars, including Palace Reserve Club, Cinnebar, Bar Cristal and Wing Lei Bar.</p>


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