Tucked away on Ice House Street, just on the outskirts of Lan Kwai Fong, lies the Beefbar, an establishment long-favoured by the city’s more carnivorous connoisseurs. While wowing the more meat-minded, it has also – rather impressively – managed to notch up a Michelin star for its trouble.

This, however, is the Hong Kong outpost of an international chain founded in Monaco in 2005, with the group guided by the sure instincts of award-winning Italian restauranteur, Riccardo Giraudi. To date, it’s the only branch in Asia as well as the sole claimant to a Michelin star.

Given its pre-eminent location, it should come as no surprise that its evening patronage has a distinct corporate skew, with many after-hours deals probably covertly consummated amid its marble trappings and plush leather seating. It pretty much goes without saying that its bar is well-stocked and that its selection of fine wines and premium spirits should satisfy even the most discerning of drinkophiles.

The main attraction here, as its name clearly asserts, is undoubtedly the beef. With Executive Chef Andrea Spagoni having been the man behind its menu from day, every item on its expansive menu is fashioned from only the finest produce, whether beef, seafood or – for those wanting to go green – vegetarian items.

With more than 20 years of experience under his big white hat, it’s apparent that Spagoni has a clear vision for Beefbar: “While we specialise in beef, we don’t call ourselves a steakhouse. We go far beyond that, whether in terms of our Raw Bar, which serves raw beef and seafood specialities, or our focus on delivering high quality seafood and vegetarian options to any diner who may be meat-averse.”

Keen to put Spagoni’s claims to the test, we began with a selection of Raw delicacies, with Tuna, Veal, Oyster and Caviar Tartare (HK$490) first to the table. Surprisingly subtle, it proved a perfect balance of land-meets-ocean, with the meaty morsels of veal eye the perfect counterpoint to the salty tuna and creamy oyster nibbles.

Next was another cold appetiser – Seabass Ceviche with Edamame, Tosazu and Quail Egg (HK$220). Here, the milder flavours of the seabass were expertly forefronted, wholly enriched by crunchy edamame, a creamy quail egg and a tart vinaigrette sauce. The perfect summer dish.

As a diverting interlude, Chef Spagoni then set about enticing us with items from his menu’s Street Food range, featuring Grade A5 Kobe beef prepared and served in a number of truly innovative ways.

Of these, the Kobe Beef and Sea Urchin Crispy Tacos (HK$290) was truly delicious with a surprisingly cohesive flavour given the robust taste profiles of its individual ingredients. Our undoubted favourite, though, was the Black Angus Slider with Bacon and Lemon Sauce (HK$100). Every bite of this mini-burger simply melted in the mouth, with the bacon according the taste buds a little added zing.

Finally, although almost wholly replete, it was time for dessert. As if on cue, an “Irish Coffee” Souffle and Coffee Ice Cream (HK$120) with an expresso shot appeared on the table. As any aspirant baker will attest, soufflés are among the most challenging desserts to deliver with true perfection, but Chef Spagoni rose to the occasion with considerable aplomb. Perfectly symmetrical and with just the right amount of wobble, it initially seemed solely suitable for those with the sweetest of tooths. Upon pairing it with a sip of the expresso shot, however, balance was more than restored, with the caffeine dispelling any hint of post-prandial torpor.

As each successive dish was served, it was eminently clear that it was more than just the food that sets Beefbar apart. In truth, it’s the finesse and eye for detail with which Chef Spagoni plates each dish that truly sets this establishment apart from Hong Kong’s horde of rival meaty me-too’s.

2/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St, Central. (852) 2110 8853. hk.beefbar.com/

Text: Tenzing Thondup