Taste Test: Chef Catarsi debuts at Nicholini’s with white truffle tasting menu
There’s a new chef in town, or at least, at Nicholini’s Restaurant. Hailing from the Tuscan town of Livorno, Chef Riccardo Catarsi brings his signature mix of classical flavours and modern culinary techniques to the Conrad Hotel’s Italian outlet.
In a stroke of luck for the city’s foodies, Chef Catarsi’s arrival coincides with the start of Alba white truffle season. It comes as no surprise, then, that his debut seasonal tasting menu spotlights the pungent, earthy delicacy.
Chef Catarsi has taste buds dancing from the start with his robust Pan-fried Scallops with artichokes, purple potatoes, salmon roe, sea urchin sabayon and white truffles.
Catarsi then steps off the throttle with a subtle Turbot fish course, only to ramp it up again with the visually and flavourfully arresting Tortello with Foie Gras, parmesan cream, veal juice and white truffles.
The main course is a Veal Tenderloin with green asparagus, chestnut cream, potato-and-beetroot mayonnaise and white truffles. There’s some intriguing textural interplay here, but ultimately the dish seems a tad too complex and heavy.
The final dish, though, is a true truffle treat. The Café & Topinabur features an unusual Jerusalem artichoke gelato with coffee biscuits, fresh passion fruit and white truffle shavings. Deceptively delicate, it was the perfect endnote to Chef Catarsi’s creative gastronomic seasonal menu.
The White Truffle Tasting Menu is available at Nicholini’s until mid-December this year. The four-course menu costs HK$1,488, while the six-course option is priced at HK$1,888. A-la-carte specials are also available.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Gigi Ip
