When the D2 Mall opened its doors a few years back, it ushered in a wave of gentrification that has since transformed many of the shops and restaurants in Lai Chi Kok. Whilst the neighbourhood is still best known for its modest wholesale outlets and equally modest dining establishments, there are now several modish restaurants to be found. Actually, amid the bustling clutter of determined shoppers and rolls of fabric that line Cheung Sha Wan Road, there are a surprising number of fine eateries to be had.

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One notably opulent addition has come in the form of the Greater China Club, the stylish home of dim sum and several other traditional favourites, all served up with a distinctly modern twist. A private members’ club – though joining is not difficult – it caters to what it terms “Hong Kong’s fine dining elite,” offering suitably classic Chinese dishes made with only the finest and most expensive ingredients.

Why settle for cheung funwith char siu when you can enjoy it with the best Iberico pork money can buy? Then, what about the fanciest, richest tasting plate of wok-fried noodles with beef and XO sauce, followed with deep-fried pumpkin and red bean pastry? This, then, is the Greater China Club promise.

Naturally, as with any other truly great Cantonese restaurant, seasonal seafood of the highest quality always tops the menu. While the Club promises premium Cantonese cuisine at its finest, does it always deliver?

The quality of the establishment, though, should not be judged on its fine fare alone though. Its decor and the overall ambience of the club are certainly of the highest calibre. Its stylish and elegant interior makes it suitable for business meetings, lunch time dim sumor just for less formal gatherings. Members also get to confer with the head chef and are given the chance to create bespoke menus for any private gatherings. In all, there are seven private rooms available to members, with experienced event planners on hand to help ensure your chosen occasion passes off flawlessly.

The Club also doubles as an exclusive jazz club. This is largely down to the efforts of Eric Ting, the venue’s founder and an avid jazz fan, ever keen to introduce smooth sounds to his patrons. Very much in keeping with this, the lounge area of has been designed in the style of a 1920’s American nightclub, with a pianist and singer performing there every night, Sunday to Thursday. There is also an outstanding jazz trio appearing there most Friday and Saturday evenings.

It is also worth making a mental note that a truly splendid barbecue is served on the rooftop on weekends. Fresh seafood, chicken, steaks, top-of-the-range beef, seasonable vegetables and genuinely delicious sauces are all on offer from the establishment’s excellent chefs. There is also a chic rooftop bar generously stocked with fine wines and champagnes, with an in-house mixologist on hand to concoct those signature cocktails or perhaps some more tailored creations.

Of course, it is the food at the Greater China Club that is the real reason to pay a visit. Thankfully, it does deliver some of the finest Cantonese cuisine in the city.

My meal began with a quartet of appetisers that came specially recommended by the chef. These included cold abalone with pomelo, fresh Chinese yams marinated in preserved plum sauce, cold silky fowl electrified with spicy Sichuan flavours and a serving of cold sea blubber – perhaps in a bid to chill the palate after the previous dish.

While it was certainly a mix of flavours, it was also well-balanced, with many of the dishes clearly complementing one another. The abalone was sweet and made the perfect accompaniment to the tanginess of the pomelo. Overall, it was a winning combination of appetisers, inevitably prompting thoughts as to just what the chef had lined up for subsequent courses.

We didn’t have long to wait to find out. The lead here was taken by roast goose served with plum sauce – a dish that really has to be tried. Traditional Chinese dishes are always a winner and it is often intriguing to see just how individual restaurants interpret such cuisine.

Just how did the Greater China Club fare then? Crispy roasted goose skin? Check. Mouth-watering fat that trickles from beneath the crispy skin of the bird? Check. Succulent, tender meat that leaves you wanting more? Check. Quite an impressive result.

Next up was the minced spotted garoupa soup with shredded assorted fungus. Another must-have – its ingredients are beautifully fresh and they really complement each other perfectly.

A more surprising combination was the wok-fried prawn balls served with aubergine and salad dressing. I was initially sceptical as to the wisdom of the pairing but I should have had more faith. Something of a revelation, the dressing merely acted as a delightful counterpoint to the freshness and crunchiness of the prawns.

It was then onto the crunchy pork ribs, another Hong Kong favourite and with good reason. While irresistibly crunchy the meat was also delightfully tender. Something of a coup on the preparation front.

The last element of the main was a rice soup with seafood. While it may lack the headline-grabbing allure of the other dishes, you won’t be disappointed. The first spoonful is more than enough to entice you in, with the soup fresh and alive with a myriad of flavours. At times, it is hard to identify each individual taste sensation, with an array of flavours competing for your attention.

Overall, its appeal lies in the fact that every dish not only tastes superb, but that every dish also tastes superb in a wholly different way. The true sign of its chef’s skill, though, is that all these disparate taste sensations are all ultimately blended into a truly satisfying whole, replete with subtle contrasts and knowing enhancements.

Go on, go ahead and treat yourself.

Greater China Club
Address: Unit A, 10/F, D2 Place, 9 Cheung Yee Place, Lai Chi Kok, Kowloon
Reservation: 2743 8055
Food: 9.5/10
Drinks: 9/10
Ambience: 9/10