When it comes to Cantonese cuisine, is there anything more iconic than dim sum? Whether they’re steamed or fried, savoury or sweet, these perfectly proportioned morsels are delightful no matter how you slice it – and that’s probably why most chefs won’t fiddle with the recipes. If you’re going to modernise dim sum, you’d better give it some finesse.

Dim Sum Library, an Aqua Restaurant Group fixture, has done just that. Conveniently located in Pacific Place, the restaurant taps into the creative side of traditional Cantonese fare. Here, dumplings are revamped and repackaged with new ingredients, textures and flavours.

Master chef Leung Kwok-wah, who boasts 15 years of experience, uses centuries-old Chinese recipes to present classic dim sum favourites in a brand new light. It’s not just about the food, though. The black and gold decor harks back to the elegant Art Deco style of the 1920s, all with a Chinese twist – certainly not your grandmother’s dim sum, with its push carts and frenzied atmosphere.

Dim Sum Library’s stunning Chinoiserie cocktail bar near the front of the restaurant has an air of elegance. One of the best-known creations by in-house mixologist Simone Rossi is the signature One Thousand Years of Song cocktail. Jasmine tea-infused gin is blended with chilled white peach puree, yuzu and lemon juice, and finished with a delicate egg white foam. The sweet and citrusy flavours balance the silky texture on top.

The options for dim sum, rice, noodles and other mains (plus vegetarian-friendly alternatives) were diverse. Their version of har gau was made from translucent black truffle wrappers, generously stuffed with shrimp and truffles served up neatly in a rectangular dim sum basket. The earthy flavour and intense aroma of the truffles make this dish a definite must-try.

The dan dan xiao long bao was equally vibrant in flavour. Although altogether a distinct dish, each bite delivered the unforgettable taste of dan dan noodles – here packed into a soupy dumpling. The minced pork, flavoured with a hint of Sichuan spice and peanut bits, was bundled in an intensely orange dumpling skin. This creative spin on a classic dish did not go unappreciated.

The black garlic siu mai pork dumpling – a traditional pork dumpling topped with fish roe and unsuspectingly stuffed with a whole piece of black garlic – was a true delight. Long a local favourite, this umami-packed dish yielded an intense sweetness rounded out by a distinctly Japanese taste.

The Hokkaido king crab and sea urchin spring rolls were cut in half and served upright on a black slate atop a drizzle of Japanese kewpie mayonnaise. Each piece was stuffed with flaky crab meat and dotted with dollops of sea urchin paté, which provided a pungent flavour.

The fried French sea bass fillet with preserved black olives, sautéed with brown enoki mushrooms and roughly cut kalian stems, was presented in a crispy taro basket. The flavours and textures of the boneless fish convened well on the palate, aided by the crunch of the vegetables.

The Iberico pork fried rice with Sakura shrimp and fennel seeds, paired with small cubes of zucchini and garnished with dried shrimp, was served in large proportion. However, unlike the previous dishes, this one was nothing exceptional.

Dessert more than made up for it, though. The signature lava chocolate mochi was served piping hot – a gooey helping of glutinous rice filled with rich molten chocolate and topped with finely ground peanut powder. This dessert was a delightful modern interpretation of the traditional sesame paste-filled glutinous rice dumplings.

At Dim Sum Library you won’t go home hungry nor disappointed. Ingredients of the highest quality were incorporated with restraint and balance, with traditional dishes never taken too far beyond the point of recognition. Overall, this impressive venue is perfect for a quick, casual dim sum fix in stylish surrounds.

DIM SUM LIBRARY
Address: 124, Level 1, Pacific Place, Admiralty
Tel: 3643 0088
http://dimsumlibrary.com.hk  

Text: Simran Mirpuri
Photos: Gigi Ip, Dim Sum Library