No doubt buoyed by the success of its Peruvian restaurant, Ichu Peru, the Dubai-headquartered hospitality company Bulldozer Group has opened yet another fine-dining spot at H Queens, this time venturing into Greek cuisine with Estiatorio Keia.

But if you head to this particular Greek restaurant expecting souvlakis and gyros on the menu, you would be in for a surprise. Not only does it steer clear of any such popular, mainstream dishes, Estiatorio Keia also adds a contemporary spin to the more traditional aspects of Mediterranean cuisine. Curated by Mykonos-based chef Alexis Zopas from the uber-cool Scorpios restaurant, the menu is all about exploring the purity of each ingredient. Thus Zopas says: “The menu presents my view of Greek cuisine and the food of the Cyclades. Seasonality and freshness are key, as they truly represent the essence of authentic Mediterranean flavours.”

This emphasis on “freshness” becomes evident even as you take the first step into this nautical-themed restaurant. A huge display counter, quite literally called Raw Bar, dominates a section of the interiors, where imported raw seafood is available at market price for guests. Diners can choose an assortment of fish like sea bream sashimi and Greek ceviche from this section.

Clearly, then, seafood makes up most of the menu at Estiatorio Keia, but if you want to start your dinner with some veggies, the Keia Salata (Greek salad) or the Ntakos Salata (Mykonos Style Salad) are both great places to start at. With generous helpings of tomatoes and other vegetables, laden with liberal amounts of cheese – feta cheese in case of Keia Salata and goat’s cheese in case of Ntakos Salata – the salads achieve a perfect harmony of freshness and richness in the palate.

The Hellenic Ceviche And Grilled Peppers, meanwhile, explore maritime flavours, with the mild flavours of the sea bass being ably enhanced by the cucumbers, peppers and olives. The other starter that really impressed us was the Xtapodi (Grilled Octopus Leg) whose meaty texture tasted divine thanks to the slow-cooking technique, while its slightly charred edges – courtesy of a hot-grill finish – added a dash of smokiness that elevated the dish further.

Of the mains, the Thalassinon Me Bottarga (Seafood Bucatini with Bottarga) pasta was a decadent affair loaded with mussels, calamari, shrimps and tomatoes. While the umami flavours of the dish packed quite a punch, its portions too are generous enough for sharing, remaining true to the Greek culture of communal meals.

The next main course, the Lavraki (Whole Seabass), had been created with sharing very much in mind as well, but as you dig into the buttery soft sea bass imbibed perfectly with the citrus notes of the lemons, we, for one, wouldn’t blame you for not wanting to share this exquisite delicacy with fellow diners.

But however delectable the main courses may have been, save a bit of room for the desserts. Estiatorio Keia doesn’t boast a long dessert menu, but what it lacks in terms of quantity, it makes up for in quality. You won’t be disappointed if you choose either the Ekmek, an all-seasons Greek dessert with kataifi fillo, vanilla cream and pistachois or the Yogurt Mousse, a classic ice cream with sour cherries and caramelised pistachios that’s perfect for Hong Kong’s humid summer.

However, whatever the season and whatever the occasion, one thing’s quite clear here – paying a visit to this Greek gourmet destination may just feel like a breath of fresh air in Hong Kong’s rather-saturated culinary map.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay