Apparently the kind of stealth cuisine that has long ducked the fine-dining radar of even the Fragrant Harbour’s boldest big eaters, it seems that Nordic fare might have, at last, come in from the cold. Until recently solely synonymous with the make-do meatballs of Swedish self-assembly sofa retailers, sumptuous Scandinavian-style suppers are finally on offer at a high-end Hong Kong dinery. And it doesn’t seem a moment too soon.

Given Hong Kong’s renowned appetite for menus of a more maverick nature, it’s no surprise that The Flying Elk – an unashamed Nordic noshery – has found a ready welcome amid the hotpot houses and bijou bistros of downtown Central. An admittedly novel notion, it arrives on the city’s nightlife (and lunch life) scene courtesy of Maximal Concepts – the SAR-based hospitality group behind Mott 32 and Brickhouse, to name but two – and Björn Frantzén, the redoubtable three Michelin-starred Stockholm-born superchef.

Cards on the table, this isn’t actually the first time Frantzén has tempted hungry Hongkongers with his own brand of Stockholm home-cooking. Indeed, it was just over two years ago that Sheung Wan-set Frantzén’s Kitchen opened its doors, a dining spot rightly famed for its Nordic-Asian fusion fare. The key difference with his latest venture, though, is that it makes no concession for local tastes, defiantly serving solely Scandinavian dishes in an ambiguously authentic Nordic style.

Even the name of his new establishment hints at his unwillingness to compromise – a native of the forests of Sweden, the mythical flying elk could neither be captured nor tamed. Indeed, a similarly Nordic defiance permeates the restaurant that bears the beast’s name, with even its log cabin stylings more than hinting that this is not just another fad-focussed downtown dinery.

Charged with maintaining that authenticity while Frantzén is away tending his global interests is his protégé and long-term collaborator, Chef Jim Löfdahl. As bullish as his boss when it comes to his commitment to delivering top-class cuisine time after time, he says: “Fine dining is really cooking taken to the next level. To be able to perform in that kind of environment, you need to be able to push yourself every day and to always be on top of your game.”

Keen to determine whether there’s more to their menu than just Swedish sweet talk, we opted to commence our contemplation of the comestibles on offer with the Roasted Scallops, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. A compelling combination of scrambled egg, truffles, crispy potatoes and scallops, all atop a warm layer of beurre noisette, as a statement of intent, it’s hard to fault.

Next up was the Roasted Beetroots – presented astride a spinach-and-watercress bed – a dash of  almond and truffle vinaigrette provided a suitably piquant counterpoint. The standout here, though, was the cream of Jerusalem artichoke, which underpinned the whole of this vegetarian delight.

With the appetisers more than passing muster, it was then on to the Poached Cod. This proved a dish so impressively prepared and so delightfully delivered that it left us yearning for just one more dollop of its subtly lemon-flavoured onion cream glaze.

While not wanting to belittle any of the taste bud titillations that preceded it, just about everything paled in comparison to the Venison victorious, the main course nonpareil. Perhaps as a sign of just how rare it is to find such exquisitely-served game in Hong Kong, we fell upon it with relish, devouring it in record time. Overall, the pairing of berries with the fulsomely fatty meat proved an effective – yet suitably subtle – touch, with any gaminess dialed down just enough to make it genuinely delicious.

Then, making us oddly nostalgic for the Nordic nights we had – admittedly – never known, it was on to the Sticky Toffee Pudding. Doused in a generous ginger butterscotch sauce, this is just a must for anyone who feels as though Christmas cuisine can never truly  outstay its welcome.

So, can Nordic comfort food woo the wavering diners of Hong Kong away from such safe harbour staples as French, Italian, Korean and Japanese cuisine? The answer would have to be very much in the affirmative. After all, it may just be that the famously long Scandinavian nights are really just a pretext for famously long Scandinavian suppers. Only by checking out The Flying Elk will you know for sure.

The Flying Elk. 2F Wyndam Mansion, 32 Wyndham Street, Central. (852) 2898 3788.