Men’s Spring-Summer 2022: Relaxed masculinity runs riot
Forget about sombre cuts and monotonous colour palettes. With the onset of the Spring / Summer season, the world’s leading labels have embraced freedom and hope by presenting dazzling hues, patterns and textures. From oversized Bermuda shorts and surfer tees to tailored summer suits and bright blazers, they leave no style unexplored in sumptuous SS22 men’s collections…
Under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia, the SS22 line delves into the tradition of fashionable experimentation that characterised the clothes of house founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. Merging the worlds of streetwear and high fashion, and unbridled by industry conventions, Gvasalia reconfigures the label’s archival pieces with exaggerated silhouettes, asymmetric cuts and bold colorways for a relaxed yet undeniably dapper style.
Seamlessly blending high fashion and beach chic, Berluti serves up a riotously colourful collection that fully embraces the joy of summer. Think relaxed denim shorts and capris, bright orange and blue Hawaiian shirts with matching shorts, and oversized beige totes. The brand’s Scritto motif – reminiscent of map calligraphy – has been enlarged and interwoven, then emblazoned across various pieces throughout this collection.
Utilitarian uniforms and relaxed sportswear have been given an experimental finish in Bottega Veneta’s latest seasonal collection. Exploring an array of dynamic textures and fabrics, an otherwise subtle monochromatic motif has been enlivened by eye-catching metallic sheens, exaggerated lines and voluminous silhouettes that not only underscore a striking techno-chic appeal, but add a fresh effervescent flair to the assemblage.
Dolce & Gabbana
Few haute-couture labels embrace euphoric colour quite like Dolce & Gabbana – and their latest seasonal line is no exception. Inspired by Italy’s ‘luminarie’ light shows, crystal-embellished ensembles vie with a multihued gem-studded suit and crystal-anointed blazers for attention. “Light is good therapy for this moment. Now we need to see light, joy and happiness in the eyes of people,” explains Stefano Gabbana.
Relaxed and casual yet resplendent with excellent tailoring, Ermenegildo Zegna serves up comfortable garments that breathe easy through warmer climes and styles fashionable enough for any occasion. From board shorts and Hawaiian T-shirts to loafers and khaki suits, the house’s spring creations bestow fun, free, cool and chic that are as at home on the beach or in the wilderness as they are indoors.
Harkening back to the Flower Power era of the ’60s, Etro’s SS22 offerings are awash with kaleidoscopic patterns, dazzling neon hues and flowing silhouettes. The more casual pieces, which range from sheer shirts and baggy trousers to open-chested patterned vests, slouch in sharp contrast to the more upstanding formal apparel – think sharply tailored suits in fluorescent colours paired with printed, deep-cut waistcoats.
There’s no denying that the latest men’s catwalk at Fendi was a study in juxtaposition: structured blazers paired with cropped Bermuda shorts; full-sleeved bomber jackets cropped below the chest for a midriff-baring finish; and formalwear accented with open-toed sandals. Eschewing the traditional tenets of masculine tailoring, the result is a playful experiment on new traditions that spell young and fun.
The classic tailoring skills that have made this Italian label beloved the world over is in sharp evidence this season, albeit with a more relaxed finish. In place of the structured suits and rigid forms that typified the Giorgio Armani Autumn / Winter line, this latest collection serves up sleek silk shirts, flared trousers and subdued, monochromatic jackets that are perfect fits for the temperamental , ever-changing climes of spring.
Androgyny is a central theme for Givenchy’s SS22 collection, with traditionally female forms and accoutrements gracing the masculine models on its catwalk. Dominating proceedings are the plethora of colourful leggings – printed or monochromatic in a kaleidoscope of colours – that are more often favoured by women on the go. Vibrant, ripped shirts, printed hoodies and a fringed cowl round out this innovative line.
Did someone say ‘costume party’? Embracing an atmosphere of lively experimentation, Gucci draws from an array of disparate sources for its Spring / Summer apparel. Looking for cowboy chic? You got it. Disco glam? It’s there. Fun formalwear? You bet. From magician-inspired suits to ’60s-style flared trousers and oversized sunglasses, this spirited collection spares no pattern, fabric or colour – especially if you’re looking towards more ecclectic ensembles.
Layering is the name of the game for Hermès this season, with the French luxury maison taking a casual approach to the mix-and-match trend. Capri pants, relaxed shorts and flowing trousers are paired, in turn, with everything from more subdued tops and unbuttoned shirts to a bright yellow printed shirt and an ombré top-and-sweater set. All are comfortably casual without skimping on an iota of style.
Louis Vuitton’s new SS22 collection for men is, to put it mildly, an avant-garde affair. An all-white outfit with a beret, ear muffs and baseball mitt-like gloves? Check. A bunny-eared hat, a pair of leather pleated shorts and baseball cleats? Check. An all-pink pimp-like get-up with an exaggerated top hat and puffy coat? Check and check. Outrageously wild and strikingly show-stopping, every ensemble is a talking point.
Nothing screams summer quite like short shorts, and Prada’s Spring / Summer line is positively brimming with them. Styled underneath a series of oversized shirts, patterned sweaters, open blazers and sleeveless tops, whether these pairings serve to embellish or shroud these abridged designs, its undeniably eye-catching sartorial numbers offer a teasingly delightful peek-a-boo experience for wearer and viewer alike.
Gothic glam and the outré collide in spectacular fashion at Saint Laurent this season. At the darker end of the spectrum, the all-black combo of a hat, a loose, sheer shirt, and a pair of skinny trousers takes a star turn, calling to mind a scarecrow’s silhouette. Then, at the opposite extreme, there are fluorescent suits, a rainbow-coloured jacket, and even an open-chested yellow cape-shirt paired with tight jeans and high-heeled boots.
Skin-baring styles line up to pair alongside more tempered, traditional masculine tailoring in Salvatore Ferragamo’s SS22 men’s runway collection. Staider options – collared shirts paired with flared shorts, a yellow top over black slacks – do, however, take something of a back seat to more unconventional garb, such as sheer tops, a flowing cowl-like number, and an attention-grabbing tiger-print jacket.
Offbeat and experimental, Valentino’s SS22 offerings push the boundaries of the traditional masculine figure. In one instance, this sees a sheer, striped shirt with flared sleeves worn with both a skirt and shorts simultaneously. In another, a purple blazer and a blue buttoned shirt are paired with a maroon shorts/leggings combo. This skilled layering of disparate garments and fabrics, though somewhat disconcerting upon first viewing, settles into a comfortingly familiar refrain.