Hong Kong has far more than its fair share of fine dining hotspots, establishments where finickily-finessed foodstuffs focus more on quality than quantity. Should you, however, fancy a day free from fastidious foodie-ism, a day where micro-platters give way to meatier matters, then there’s a table reserved for your patronage at the Prohibition Grill House & Cocktail Bar, the plush new American-style steakhouse at Ocean Park Marriott Hotel.

Deftly combining fine dining with fulsome servings, this brand-new cuisinary is a hark back to the Prohibition Era of the US of the ’20s, a time marked by an ostentatious abstinence often concealing delightful decadence. In keeping with this motif, the restaurant’s interior is an unabashed homage to such iconic New York scoff-easies as Peter Luger and Wolfgang’s Steakhouse.

The tone is set by the bar’s easygoing period ambience, with its atmospheric lighting, red velvet sofas and leather chairs against stark brick walls nailing the discrete devilment of the time. These back-to-basic embellishments, however, are not restricted to a just decor, with Executive Chef Jason R. Loyd keen to use the same philosophy in his kitchen.

Originally from Connecticut in the US, Loyd is an advocate of a distinctly American approach to cooking. Hence, most of Prohibition’s meatier fare is prepared over an open fire using such time-honoured techniques as charcoal grilling and rotisserie.

Eager to indulge in sumptuous carnivorism, we dove straight into his opening salvo – a disarmingly simple Lump Crab Cake. Taking this crowd favourite as a starting point, Loyd transforms it with the addition of yuzu and a cod tartar sauce of his own concoction. It’s a winning combination, with the crab meat melting into the mouth after but a moment, while proving a harmonious blend with the acidic notes of yuzu.

To follow was a generously-sized Pastrami Platter, a classic American staple here made with homemade sourdough, rye and house mustard. A lingering concern that the eminently meaty pastrami, along with the fries, could prove a tad too greasy was soon dispelled as the refreshing pickled cucumbers excised any such sensation, while inspiring a clear craving for a second helping.

All of this, however, proved little more than foodie foreplay before the climactic event of the evening – the Spit Roast Prime Rib. Succulent on the inside, with crispy crust on the outside, its strategic singeing comes courtesy of Loyd’s masterly open-fire manoeuvres. Served with a caramelised sauce reduction, it’s gigantic portions are totally crowd-friendly.

Not one to rest on his laurels, Loyd then sprung a second show-stealer – USDA Prime Bone-in Ribeye, which was again prepared with sharing very much in mind. A signature dish and clearly one close to the chef’s heart, this 44oz ribeye is dry-aged for 28 days in-house, with bourbon and oolong tea. The result is a meatophile’s dream on a plate – tender on the inside, slightly charred on the outside, with the juicy flesh and crispy exterior dancing a veritable taste bud tango. 

While too full to enjoy more than a spoonful of the designated dessert, New York Cheesecake, that was enough to establish its credentials – moist, refreshingly light and wholly enticing.  In all, it was pretty much fully compliant with the aims of Loyd’s mission statement: “to bring a satisfied smile to the faces of all our guests.”

Prohibition Grill House & Cocktail Bar
G/F, Club Wing, Ocean Park Marriott Hotel, 180 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Aberdeen
+852 3555 1900
www.prohibition.hk

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay