The high-end watch industry is seemingly enamoured with the adage ‘bigger is better’, as new designs are launched to one-up the competition in terms of dial size and depth. However, those seeking a subtler, more streamlined aesthetic need not despair – several haute-horology brands have drawn back the curtain on more minimalist wrist adornments. Here, we spotlight seven slender timepieces that are more than worth a thorough perusal.

Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve

First up on our list of ultra-thin watches is Omega’s De Ville Trésor Power Reserve in 18K yellow gold. The model that debuted back in 1949 has now been updated to feature a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a small-seconds sub-dial resting diametrically opposite. While retaining the understated vintage elegance of the original, it comes equipped with an up-to-the-minute movement – the hand-wound Master Chronometer Calibre 8935. Delivering a robust 72-hour power reserve, it nevertheless manages to pack everything into a 10.07mm-thin case.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin

Audemars Piguet has also released new interpretations of a classic design in the form of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin. When its predecessor was launched at the 1972 Baselworld fair, it pretty much birthed the luxury sports watch category. These latest versions, however, are somewhat more sophisticated, thanks to the 1,102 brilliant-cut diamonds punctuating their case, bezel and bracelet. Available with a light blue or black dial in a white or pink gold case, its slimness may be attributed to the self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2121 movement within, whose thickness measures just 3.05mm.

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Montblanc Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148

Rounding out our trio of timeless classics made contemporary is Montblanc’s Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148, which was inspired by the historic ’40s-era Minerva Pythagore calibre 48. With that movement as a reference, the engineers at Montblanc developed an all-new, hand-wound 4.07mm Manufacture Calibre MB M14.08 for the new creation, replete with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Available in blue with a white gold case or ‘burnt caramel’ encased in pink gold, both avatars are limited to a release of just 148 pieces.

 

Panerai Luminor Due

Similarly upscaling an athletic model in a streamlined form is Panerai, with its new Luminor Due boasting an automatic P.900 calibre movement that’s just 4.2mm thick. To ensure this mechanism remains tamper-proof, Panerai has equipped a Safety Lock crown-protection device on the side of its square-shaped bezel. Fitted with a three-day power reserve, this elegant blue-and-steel timepiece comes furnished with a navy sun-brushed dial punctuated with a small seconds sub-dial and a date aperture at nine o’clock and three o’clock respectively. A blue alligator-skin strap rounds out its sporty feel.

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Ressence Type 1 Slim Red

Introducing a splash of scarlet to proceedings is Antwerp-headquartered independent manufacture Ressence’s striking Type 1 Slim Red. Unlike traditional dial layouts with hour and minute hands rotating around a central axis, the Type 1 Slim Red’s fascia displays the Ressence Orbital Convex System to tell time. In layman’s terms, it features three separate indicators for hours, seconds and week days. Distinguished with a bold red dial and matching rubber strap, the new model has been slimmed down by some 20 percent since its 2019 debut.

Hermès Slim d’Hermès La Source de Pégase

Elevating colourful dials to literal works of art, Hermès has unveiled the Slim d’Hermès La Source de Pégase, powered by a 2.6mm-thin mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1950 movement. Drawing on the craft skills of miniature painting, straw marquetry, enamelling and hand-engraving, the delicate dial features a majestic winged horse rearing to strike a rock with its hooves. Two avatars of this vibrant design – a reinterpretation of the eponymous Hermès silk scarf designed by French artist Pierre Marie – are on offer: a yellow Pegasus dial with white strap and an all-blue version. With only 12 of each version to be produced, they’re sure to fly quickly to the hands of discerning collectors.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Rounding out our list is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept “Tribute to La Côte-aux-Fées”. A past master at creating slim designs, the brand almost defies the laws of physics with a timepiece measuring just 2mm thick, roughly the equivalent of a HK$1 coin. The Calibre 900P-UC movement is directly machined onto the cobalt alloy case – which is fronted by an intriguing open-worked dial – in order to achieve this incredible slimness; just 0.12mm separates the workings from the wearer’s skin. A tribute to cutting-edge watchmaking, it proudly claims the title of 2021’s thinnest watch.

Also Read: Unusually shaped watches that bring a fresh perspective on timekeeping

 

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)