Once upon a (not so long ago) time, dive watches were predominantly tools of necessity. Given the inherent dangers and limitations of the pastime – limited oxygen supply, underwater pressure, restricted visibility – they were vital safety aids that kept divers alive. So, these timepieces historically catered to the unique challenges of the sport. In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster, the first hermetically-sealed waterproof wristwatch. Six years later, Omega developed the Marine, capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.

Today, however, such wrist adornments are more often worn as statement pieces rather than underwater assistants. Be that as it may, the world’s leading watchmakers remain dedicated to crafting durable, legible and eminently usable diving chronometers that are as elegant as they are functional. Here, we highlight seven particular standout models worthy of attention.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

First on our list is Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet, the latest interpretation of its 1956-released Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Kitted out with a full annual calendar complication, it nevertheless maintains its roots as a diving aid, boasting heightened durability with its titanium grade 23 alloy case, as well as an almost industrial all-grey, fully matte look. It’s also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to time dives, with the calibre 6654.P self-winding movement churning out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco

Similarly drawing from its rich history is Panerai with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco. While the Submersible only debuted as a solo model in 1998, the design harks back to watches made for the Egyptian Navy back in 1956. Featuring the iconic circle-in-a-square shaped case, it comes fitted with a calibre P.900 movement and can withstand depths of 300m. An olive-green strap rounds out a vintage-inspired utilitarian aesthetic.

 

Also Read: Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

 

Oris Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition

Swiss-based Oris has also embraced a verdant look for its Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition. The watchmaker is known for championing environmental sustainability projects across the globe; in this instance, profits from the 2,000-piece release are earmarked for the Billion Oyster Project, an initiative launched in hopes to reseed that number of oysters into New York waters. The watch features a yellowy-green mother-of-pearl dial that’s burnished with super legible Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hour and minute hands, all housed in a 41.5mm steel case and powered by an automatic calibre 400 movement.

Richard Mille RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth

For something more outré, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth at the 11th Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille regatta in April. Characterised by an eye-catching Caribbean blue-on-white Quartz TPT aesthete, it offers optimal water resistance and durability thanks to the grade 5 titanium case middle. Blending a plethora of colours to increase legibility, the over-sized 60-minute counter rotating bezel makes for equally easy viewing. Limited to just 120 pieces, this technical timepiece is certified to withstand pressures to a depth of 300m.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

A more minimalist approach comes courtesy of IWC’s latest Aquatimer Automatic, available with either a blue or black dial and the buyer’s choice of rubber strap or steel bracelet. Powered by the brand-new calibre 32111 movement, the 42mm dive watch eschews the traditional external rotating bezel in favour of an internal printed 60-minute scale lining the angled flange of the dial edge, thereby doing away with a secondary crown and minimising the risk of water creeping in.

 

Also read: Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

The next entrant, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, may not be so recent a release as others on our line-up, but it still merits particular mention. Crafted from Rolesor, its triple waterproof system allows this timepiece to withstand waters as much as 1,220m deep. A staggering feat of engineering indeed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium

That, however, pales in comparison to Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium. As befits the final sub-aquatic timepiece on our list, it serves up an unimaginable water resistance to a depth of 6,000m – a greater drop than from the tallest mountain in Europe. It was this very watch, albeit in a concept form, that was strapped onto the Limiting Factor submarine during its record-breaking dive to 10,925m back in 2019. Painstakingly crafted from sandblasted grade 5 titanium and fitted with an athletic Nato-style strap, this timepiece stylishly represents the very pinnacle of dive watch-making.

 

Also read: Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication