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Chef Olivier Elzer has already made waves with L’Envol, his two-Michelin-starred establishment at The St Regis Hong Kong. Now, he embarks on a new culinary journey with Clarence, a more casual French-dining concept located on the 25th floor of Central’s H Code. While the former embraces the strictest tenets of fine dining, his latest outing – which is helmed by his protégé, Chef Simon So – offers innovative takes on French classics tempered by Asian techniques and traditions.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-65907" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior.png" alt="gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance interior" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-interior-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
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This amalgamation is no accident. “With Envol, I know my guests come to sample true French fine dining, so the scope I have to experiment is rather limited. So, with Clarence, I wanted to really explore and create my own culinary concept – one that’s been informed by my own experiences across the world, and particularly in Asia,” explains Elzer.
The award-winning chef, whose impressive 27-year CV includes tenuring with famed chef Joël Robuchon and a collection of 23 Michelin stars, has lived in the Far East for the past 13 years.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-65906" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-chef-olivier-elzer.png" alt="gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance chef olivier elzer" width="366" height="500" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-chef-olivier-elzer.png 366w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-chef-olivier-elzer-200x273.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-chef-olivier-elzer-205x280.png 205w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-chef-olivier-elzer-120x164.png 120w" sizes="(max-width: 366px) 100vw, 366px" />
Hence, the Clarence menu is punctuated with a sashimi-inspired raw bar, as well as such techniques as teppan (iron plate) grilling, steaming and charcoal smoking. Perhaps the most inventive of the listings are ‘Yakifrenchy’ dishes that utilise the Japanese robata grill to cook and flavour traditional French fare like frog legs and escargot. Chef Elzer’s diverse vision also encompasses the layout of the restaurant, which comprises three disparate areas – the wine cellar, the casual dining room and the bar.
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Also Read:&nbsp;<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/caviar-etiquette-done-right-gafencu-hong-kong/">Caviar etiquette done right</a>
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-65904" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4.png" alt="gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance 4" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-4-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Eager to begin our own tasting, we start with a cold appetiser of Black Prawns / Tonka Bean / Lemon Peel. Beautifully plated on a bed of ice, the crustaceans are accentuated by tart sprinkles of lemon zest, while hints of vanilla emerge through the legume shavings. Creamy and crunchy in equal measure, this delicate portion serves as the perfect opening act.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-65903" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3.png" alt="gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance 3" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-3-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Next, we sample an array of skewers from the Yakifrenchy section of the menu. Ratatouille / Pesto sees such vegetables as courgettes and bell peppers grilled then basted in a rich pesto cream. A second vegetable skewer of Eggplant / Escabeche has generous slices of aubergine marinated in assorted spices then topped with beautifully caramelised onions. Juicy and sweet, this is one dish whose diminutive proportions belie its filling nature. The next two en brochettes are reinterpretations of French standards and perhaps our favourites of the selection on hand – the umami-laden Burgundy Snails / Garlic Parsley and the super succulent Frog Legs / Pastis / Tomato.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-65902" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2.png" alt="gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance 2" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-2-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Then, twin portions of Cooked Octopus / Uni Foam / Fresh Tomato / Lime hove into view. Constructed much like a savoury trifle, each layer of this dish reveals new ingredients and flavours. A sliver of tender cooked octopus rests atop a rich sea-urchin foam that heightens the dish’s oceanic accents. Underneath it all lies a bed of cubed tomatoes tossed in lime and more mollusc slices. The result is an ever-evolving creation where each mouthful yields different dynamics and nuances.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-65901" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1.png" alt="gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance 1" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/gafencu-taste-french-fine-dining-Clerance-1-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Rounding out our visit to Clarence is a main course of Skate Wing / Teppan / Brown Butter / Spices. “This was inspired by an old French classic where the fish is paired with a burnt butter sauce, but it often overwhelmed the palate, so it’s dwindled in popularity,” says Elzer. “My vision with this dish is to use the oft-overlooked French skate wing and then to soften the effect of the butter, while infusing it with an array of spices to temper and complement the inherent tastiness of the fish.”
Grilled over a teppan and coated with spices, the delicate flesh of the skate wing can be paired, in turn, with roasted lemon or the decadent brown-butter sauce. Displaying the creative chef’s East-meets-West inspirations to their most satisfying effect, it’s a fantastic course for sharing with loved ones and a great example of sea-to-table dining.
<a href="http://clerancehk.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Clarence</a>. 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 3568 1397. <a href="http://clerancehk.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">clerancehk.com</a>
(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)
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gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance 600x337

Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

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Exquisite service, incredible food, attention to detail – a beautiful restaurant in the heart of Central whisked us off to the French Riviera without having to catch a plane. Located in the art-themed complex of H Queen’s on Stanley Street, LPM Restaurant and Bar is a modern brasserie awash in elegant whites, and one of the go-to places in the city for fine French-Mediterranean food minus the fuss or undue flourishes.
Casting off the gloom of a fifth Covid wave in Hong Kong, on a bright winter’s day, we arrive at the stylish, handsomely white-tableclothed restaurant for a lunchtime tasting. Entering through an open patio that seats 14, we are immediately struck by the expansive dining space (LPM accommodates 104 in total), modern architecture and relaxed, welcoming vibe. The interiors are a sunny delight, dotted with carefully curated contemporary artwork from the South of France and its environs.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-64850" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining.jpg" alt="Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-600x399.jpg 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-400x266.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Modern French gastronomy may not be hot at the moment, but that doesn’t bother head chef Maurizio Pace. “Our food is timeless,” he says, “You really can’t eat a bad French meal, and we’ve designed a classic menu with a contemporary twist. It is labour-intensive, detail-oriented and the execution is flawless.” Armed with more than two decades of culinary experience across Italy, the United Kingdom and Hong Kong, Pace steers clear of trends to create new, bold flavours amidst an informality unfamiliar in most traditional French restaurants. Each mouthful here, is an unapologetic food adventure, one that is not easily forgotten or recreated elsewhere. 
From a menu exhibiting a wide confluence of classics, the chef prepares four courses of earthy fare for this vegetarian. Once seated, the server comes forth with a plate of Italian tomatoes, lemon and olive oil to “make your own salad”. Ripe and bursting with flavour, it’s an entertaining start to escape the wait for entrées which are prepared in the open kitchen.
Also Read:&nbsp;<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/eat-safe-at-home-restaurant-takeaway-options-during-covid-19/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong</a>
<figure id="attachment_64849" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-64849" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-64849" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts.jpg" alt="Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts-600x399.jpg 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-dining-Endive-Salad-with-Gorgonzola-and-Caramelised-Walnuts-400x266.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-64849" class="wp-caption-text">Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts</figcaption></figure>
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We begin with Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts. Bitter and twisted, endives are an acquired taste, but once you’re accustomed, there’s no looking back. Sliced and bathed in a tangy dressing of mustard, mayonnaise and olive oil, the chicory is topped with apple slices, a mound of cheese and crispy caramelised nuts.
Our taste buds thus shocked out of hibernation, we’re ready to dig deep into Black Truffle with Burrata. Fresh, milky burrata cheese flown straight from Italy is served with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous shaving of European black truffle. This delicious marriage of earthy, aromatic ingredients can be savoured all winter long.
<figure id="attachment_64851" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-64851" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-64851 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes.jpg" alt="Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French diningHomemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes-600x399.jpg 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Language-of-Love-No-longer-a-petite-maison-LPM-Restaurant-and-Bar-shows-its-maturity-in-fine-flavoursome-fuss-free-French-diningHomemade-Gnocchi-with-Cherry-Tomatoes-400x266.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-64851" class="wp-caption-text">Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes</figcaption></figure>
Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes is a humble, comforting dish – flavourfully packed with herbs but not piled with cream, and most importantly not leaving a sinking feeling in the mouth like some pasta creations. It’s served with the right amount of piquancy, warmth and salt, and I can imagine children getting wild for it.
LPM offers an exhaustive wine list, as well as cocktails that are beyond impressive. Bar Manager Benjamin Boyce, stirs a complex, magical potion for Beauty and the Beast, a mildly sweet and invigorating mix of Ketel One vodka, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, strawberry, fennel cordial and yellow Chartreuse.
The heady cocktails are outdone by the calorie-dense dessert of Vanilla Cheesecake with Berry Compote. A faultlessly smooth, unassuming wedge comes with the promise of airy lightness, the thin crunchy base and the tartness of mixed berries prove to be exactly the sort of old-school sweetness I’d wage a fork-war over. 
The undisputed simplicity and freshness of ingredients here, prepared with love and respect, make you crave for a leisurely Saint-Tropez holiday, and it’s this ability to captivate and transport diners that has built LPM such a solid local clientele.
Also Read:&nbsp;<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/eat-safe-at-home-restaurant-takeaway-options-during-covid-19/">The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong</a>
<a href="http://lpmrestaurants.com/hongkong" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LPM Restaurant and Bar</a>. H Queen’s, 23-29 Stanley Street, Central. (852) 2887 1113.&nbsp;<a href="http://lpmrestaurants.com/hongkong" target="_blank" rel="noopener">lpmrestaurants.com/hongkong</a>
(Text: Nikita Mishra Pictures: LPM Restaurant and Bar)

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining 600x337

LPM Restaurant & Bar: Fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining

When it comes to nosheries that source the most exotic of ingredients from the furthest-flung points of the globe, Hong Kong is no slouch. Be it’s hand-reared halibut hover-crafted in from a niche Norwegian fjord or seldom-seen naturally Nepalese spices rickshawed down from the Himalayas, it’s sure to be writ large on the menu of one or another of the city’s trendier bespoke bistros.
Possibly as a sign that this particular bid for notoriety is wearing a bit thin, there are now a number of restaurants have flipped the whole concept, majoring on the fact that everything on their menus – from mince to marjoram – are proudly local. Ladies and gentlemen, please be upstanding for the Dawn of the (so-called) Locavores&#8230;
<figure id="attachment_48408" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-48408" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-48408" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors.jpg" alt="Root" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Root-interiors-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-48408" class="wp-caption-text">Root interiors</figcaption></figure>
It is, to be fair, an approach that seems to be going down well. The Chairman, a Central-set locavore locale, for instance, was acclaimed as Hong Kong’s finest foodie haven at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Next year, however, it may face competition from another indigenous-ingredient enthusiast – Root, an H Code-located purveyor of fine French cuisine, all prepared from local farm inputs, with every effort made to derive the utmost from each freshly-sourced element on a&nbsp; “stalk to stem” basis.
<figure id="attachment_48407" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-48407" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-48407" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan.jpg" alt="Root" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Chef-Vito-Chan-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-48407" class="wp-caption-text">Chef Vito Chan</figcaption></figure>
Head of serving up superb sustainable cuisine at Root is Executive Chef Vito Chan, a man whose avowed philosophy is to make more from less. One of the key tools at his disposal in this regard is cryoconcentration, an innovative biofood technique said to deliver wastage of less than 5%. Such a skill, though, is not the only reason he was asked to take up the reins of the Root kitchen – he also learnt his trade under the guidance of such luminaries as Richard Ekkebus (Executive Chef of Hong Kong’s The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental’s twin-Michelin-starred Amber restaurant) and Donovan Cooke (Executive Chef at The Atlantic restaurant in Melbourne).
<figure id="attachment_48402" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-48402" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-48402 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé.jpg" alt="Root" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Yellow-fungus-abalone-duck-consommé-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-48402" class="wp-caption-text">Yellow fungus, abalone, duck consommé</figcaption></figure>
Keen to sample his skills for ourselves, we eagerly awaited the first item on the special tasting menu – Yellow fungus, abalone, duck consommé. While the name itself is self-explanatory, it doesn’t do justice to the multitude of flavours that Chef Chan packs into this petite-portioned appetiser. While the mild-flavoured abalone blends perfectly with the meaty fungus, this, in turn, segues seamlessly into the sweet duck consommé, triggering a cornucopia of flavours that is only enhanced further by the freshness of the edible flower garnish.
<figure id="attachment_48404" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-48404" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-48404" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Bamboo-fungus-scallop-karasum-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-48404" class="wp-caption-text">Bamboo fungus, scallop, karasum</figcaption></figure>
Next up is the eponymous appetiser – Bamboo fungus, scallop, karasum. Unlike its prosaic name, however, the dish itself is pretty much perfectly-plattered poetry. Here, the scallop mousse has been deftly inserted into a tube of bamboo fungus and then splayed across a bed of karasum (Chinese herbs) and mushroom broth, and topped with caviar and chrysanthemum petals. It’s a beautiful presentation, with its nourishing flavours equally heartwarming.
<figure id="attachment_48406" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-48406" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-48406" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel.jpg" alt="Root" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-yellow-chicken-morel-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-48406" class="wp-caption-text">Black truffle, yellow chicken, morel</figcaption></figure>
It is, however, the main course – Black truffle, yellow chicken, morel – that proves Chef Chan&#8217;s skills beyond doubt. The black truffle sits on a bed of chicken extract, while the yellow chicken breast comes crusted with sunflower seeds and roasted chicken skin, making it a dish where very little goes to waste. The morel, meanwhile, is topped with bitter melon and shrimps, which together create a perfect balance of flavours. Characteristically, Chef Chan again seems to revel in playing off the flavours against each other, with the mild taste of the chicken ably enhanced by the tangy sunflower seeds and the savoury tones of the morel dancing a tango with the bitterness of the bitter melon.
<figure id="attachment_48405" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-48405" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-48405" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Black-truffle-ice-cream-lemon-meringue-almond-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-48405" class="wp-caption-text">Black truffle ice cream, lemon meringue, almond</figcaption></figure>
By the time dessert is delivered, for us at least, Chef Chan’s culinary genius is beyond dispute, although the Black truffle ice cream, lemon, almond cream sauce would have sufficed to dispel any lingering doubts. Indeed, the richness of the ice cream combined with the citrusy notes of the lemon and the freshness of the basil leaves ensured that the chef had once again delivered a dish that is pure perfection.
And that’s really the root of Root’s success – delicious dishes that don’t rely on hero ingredients, but where all the elements on the plate unite into something quite unique&#8230;
<div style="width: 640px;" class="wp-video"><video class="wp-video-shortcode" id="video-48401-3" width="640" height="360" autoplay="1" preload="metadata" controls="controls"><source type="video/mp4" src="https://www.igafencu.com/video/1909/1909_GMHK_Root.mp4?_=3" /><a href="https://www.igafencu.com/video/1909/1909_GMHK_Root.mp4">https://www.igafencu.com/video/1909/1909_GMHK_Root.mp4</a></video></div>
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Root. 7/Fl, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 2420 8112. <a href="www.roothongkong.com">www.roothongkong.com</a>
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay; Video: Kingsley Lau

Review: Exquisitely-blended local ingredients are the true of heroes at Root

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When one particular Michelin-star-winning French chef looked to open a new restaurant in Asia, Hong Kong was his preferred location from the off. It is, after all, a city that prides itself on its gourmandry. His instincts proved sound, with his eatery, The Ocean by Olivier Bellin, even bagging a coveted Michelin star in 2018.
<figure id="attachment_42031" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-42031" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-42031" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin.jpg" alt="The Ocean by Olivier Bellin" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chef-Olivier-Bellin-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-42031" class="wp-caption-text">Chef Olivier Bellin</figcaption></figure>
Clear as to just what sets The Ocean by Olivier Bellin apart, the venerable chef now says: “Essentially, our team aims to create beautiful products, each highlighting its intrinsic properties, while combining that with the finest traditions of Breton cuisine, which always looks to fuse the very best that the land and the sea have to offer. With each dish, we look to bring out all the most rarefied nuances of Brittany.”
Indeed, sticking to his avowed mission to bring out the best of Breton cuisine, Chef Bellin&#8217;s carefully-curated menu serves up a bespoke blend of maritime and earthly delights. Indeed, with our palate aptly piqued, we immediately plumped for the five-course degustation menu…
<figure id="attachment_42030" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-42030" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-42030" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream.jpg" alt="The Ocean by Olivier Bellin" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Chaud-froid-of-cauliflower-and-parmesan-ice-cream-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-42030" class="wp-caption-text">Chaud-froid of cauliflower and parmesan ice cream</figcaption></figure>
The very first instalment turned out to be the engagingly entitled Ocean Breeze – a chaud-froid of cauliflower and parmesan ice cream, served with squid ink jus. With the crunchiness of the cauliflower complementing the softness of the ice cream, the tone was more than set for the rest of the tasting, with expectations now running high – partly on account of the accompanying Champagne Thiénot Brut N.V., which enhanced each individual flavouring.
Next up, Sea Anchor – a pan-seared coral Brittany langoustine, beetroot and buckwheat tartare and black pudding – exemplified Bellin’s land-meets-sea leitmotif. While the freshness of the langoustine belied sundry maritime influences, the earthy aromas of the beetroot tied the whole dish together in a veritable symphony of flavours – a sensation heightened yet further by the paired Domaine Elian Da Ros, Coucou Blanc 2014.
<figure id="attachment_42029" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-42029" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-42029" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare.jpg" alt="The Ocean by Olivier Bellin" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-langoustine-beetroot-and-buckwheat-tartare-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-42029" class="wp-caption-text">Brittany langoustine, beetroot and buckwheat tartare</figcaption></figure>
Of the mains, it was easy to understand just how the Deep Sea – a lightly cooked Brittany blue lobster with brioche and pork head veil, curry sauce, apple and grapefruit condiments – has become the restaurant’s signature serving. Testifying to the special place it has in his own heart, the proud chef said: “In the Deep Sea, we have tried to optimise the natural deep flavours of the Brittany blue lobsters by contrasting them with land elements.”
Again blending the chef’s favoured elements with consummate ease, this was a dish that was both mild and complex, a sentiment only elevated by the sweetness of the lobster and then given fresh depth by the accompanying condiments. The full-bodied red wine – Domaine Georges Vernay, Viognier, Le Pied De Samson 2016 – proved to be an inspired pairing.
<figure id="attachment_42028" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-42028" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-42028" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil.jpg" alt="The Ocean by Olivier Bellin" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Brittany-blue-lobster-with-brioche-and-pork-head-veil-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-42028" class="wp-caption-text">Brittany blue lobster with brioche and pork head veil</figcaption></figure>
The dessert, by comparison – the somewhat intriguingly designated Decompression – was a relatively simple affair, blending apple texture with vanilla ice cream. What it lacked in complexity, though, it made up for in terms of fulsome flavours. Ideal for those without too much of a sweet tooth, it may not be a wholly decadent affair, but it brought the whole meal to a more than satisfying conclusion.
Aside from the quality of the cuisine, a visit to The Ocean makes one other thing more than apparent – this is not the kind of place to duck into for a quick nibble. No, this is one establishment that you simply have to savour, leisurely working your way through its magnificent menu, while the city buzzes below.
The Ocean by Olivier Bellin. Shop 303-304, L3, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong (to be relocated to Central in early 2019). (852) 2889 5939.&nbsp;<a href="www.theocean.hk">www.theocean.hk</a>
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Set sail on an epic culinary journey at The Ocean by Olivier Bellin

Stepping into Le Pan, an 18-month-old French fine dining establishment, the first thing that hits you is its sheer immensity. There is, however, sound thinking behind its commodiousness. Unlike Central, Wan Chai or Causeway Bay, where a clutter of deluxe dineries vie for patrons, Le Pan has the missionary-esque task of converting the gastronomically unaware citizens of Kowloon Bay into true aficionados of fine food.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;
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At the head of this wholescale culinary conversion is Chef Edward Voon, Malaysian-born, but Singapore-reared. Bankrolling his bid to properly educate the local palate is Pan Sutong, the Hong Kong-based billionaire businessman who founded Matsunichi Communication Holdings, the home appliance giant. Together, they have created a restaurant that is unashamedly, as Voon puts it, “contemporary French, reimagined”.
<figure id="attachment_38615" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38615" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38615 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon.jpg" alt="Le Pan is ably helmed by Chef Edward Voon" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-is-ably-helmed-by-Chef-Edward-Voon-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38615" class="wp-caption-text">Le Pan is ably helmed by Chef Edward Voon</figcaption></figure>
Thankfully, a legion of fine dining enthusiasts and eminent food critics have bought into the shared vision of Le Pan, with many seeing an excursion to Kowloon Bay as more than amply recompensed by the array of ever-changing, well-finessed Gallic gourmandry that is always on offer.&nbsp;
Explaining his approach to building the restaurant’s reputation, Voon says: “I cook everyday as if it’s a competition. Whenever a regular returns, I throw out the menu and change things about for them. I love that kind of adrenaline and that’s also why we swap out over a quarter of the menu every month, giving me the chance to experiment anew.”
<figure id="attachment_38613" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38613" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38613 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly.jpg" alt="Kristal caviar, botan shrimp, sea urchin, crustacean jelly" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Kristal-caviar-botan-shrimp-sea-urchin-crustacean-jelly-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38613" class="wp-caption-text">Kristal caviar, botan shrimp, sea urchin, crustacean jelly</figcaption></figure>
Eager to give this ceaseless rotation of fine cusinery a go, we started our tasting with Kristal caviar, botan shrimp, sea urchin, crustacean jelly. Much like the man himself, this starter was multi-layered and complex, with sharply contrasting flavours expertly woven into a wholly-coherent and supremely-satisfying platter.
<figure id="attachment_38610" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38610" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38610 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple.jpg" alt="Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cured-ocean-trout-scampi-verjus-‘piperade’-Granny-Smith-apple-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38610" class="wp-caption-text">Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple</figcaption></figure>
Next up, a sumptuous appetiser of Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple. Divided into hot and cold servings, the warmer end of the spectrum featured a crunchy pastry-and-oba-leaf-wrapped scampi, rounded off with a tart Granny Smith apple butter sauce and a drizzle of basil reduction. The chillier choice – perhaps the stronger showing of the two portions – majored on cold trout, foiled wonderfully by a bed of vegetable jelly and topped with creamy salmon tartare.
<figure id="attachment_38609" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38609" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38609 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc.jpg" alt="Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Cancale-whelk-ravioli-seaweed-fermented-black-bean-beurre-blanc-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38609" class="wp-caption-text">Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc</figcaption></figure>
Delicacy was the order of the day with our final starter – Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc, expertly paired with cod roe eggs. The tactical deployment of the (potentially overwhelming) black beans here, proved a surprising yet wholly appropriate addition, and a subtle nod to the Le Pan chef’s Asian roots.
<figure id="attachment_38608" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38608" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38608 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce.jpg" alt="Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Brittany-blue-lobster-artichoke-cherry-aromatic-sauce-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38608" class="wp-caption-text">Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce</figcaption></figure>
Then it was on to the main course proper – beautifully-plated Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce, a dish sure to find favour with even the haughtiest high-end epicurean fans. Indeed, the pairing of such a perfectly-cooked crustacean with lobster and pearl onion tartare was nothing short of inspired.
<figure id="attachment_38612" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38612" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38612 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse.jpg" alt="Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Imperial-pigeon-au-sang-petit-pois-grelot-onion-jus-carcasse-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38612" class="wp-caption-text">Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse</figcaption></figure>
Skipping from one peak palate performer to the next, it was due time for the house’s piecé de résistance – Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse – to take centre stage. Whilst a notoriously problematic bit of poultry for many chefs, the pigeon à la Le Pan – sumptuously smoked in applewood and rosemary – was tender and proved quite the revelation.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-38614 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay.jpg" alt="Le Pan boasts spacious interiors in Kowloon Bay" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Le-Pan-boasts-spacious-interiors-in-Kowloon-Bay-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
After a series of unquestionably complex, yet wholly delicious courses, Chef Voon saw fit to end our gallop through Gallic gastronomy with an apparently simple dessert. The merest tincture of the proffered Yuzu cremeux, white chocolate, almond, lemon confit, however, was enough to dispel that particular notion. Tart yet sweet, creamy yet light, it was the perfect postscript to a truly marvellous menu, and a testament to his deft hand at composing complex dishes far greater than the sum of their parts.
Le Pan. G/F, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Rd, Kowloon Bay. (852) 3188 2355. <a href="http://www.lepan.com.hk">www.lepan.com.hk</a>
Text: Tenzing Thondup

Pan-tastic: Le Pan serves inspired French cuisine with an Asian tweak

If there were a restaurant equivalent of a speakeasy, Bibo would fit the bill perfectly. Tucked away in Sheung Wan opposite Man Mo temple, it would take a fair bit of investigative skills to firstly locate the restaurant and then to actually get the door open – if one is given to flights of fancy, the experience may seem something like entering Ali Baba&#8217;s cave from Arabian Nights.
<figure id="attachment_38520" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38520" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-38520" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Renowned-street-artist-Invaders-work-displayed-at-BIBO-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38520" class="wp-caption-text">Renowned street artist Invader&#8217;s work displayed at Bibo</figcaption></figure>
Once you&#8217;ve successfully crossed the initial hurdles, there&#8217;s one more to go: there are two staircases, one going up, another going down – which one do you choose? We followed our instincts and took the path oft travelled and that led us – wonder of wonders – to the right destination, a cosy restaurant and a well-stocked bar – a welcome sight, indeed!
<figure id="attachment_38521" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38521" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-38521" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Chef-Nicholas-Chew.jpg" alt="Bibo" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Chef-Nicholas-Chew.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Chef-Nicholas-Chew-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Chef-Nicholas-Chew-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Chef-Nicholas-Chew-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Chef-Nicholas-Chew-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38521" class="wp-caption-text">Chef Nicholas Chew</figcaption></figure>
But the surprise was not yet over. In a city where every eatery is desperate to outbid others by bolder, glitzier, more glamorous decor, Bibo goes on a different path altogether. With contemporary art lining literally every surface – from street artist Invader&#8217;s &#8216;notorious&#8217; pixel art to American artist Kaws&#8217; iconic cross-eyed installations, every nook and corner has a cool chic vibe, perfect for an urban crowd ready to forsake ostentatiousness.
At the helm of this urban cuisinary is new executive chef, Nicholas Chew, who gives the classic French menu at Bibo an Asian makeover. The result in an French-Asian fusion cuisine with a modern flair, that tips its hat to French techniques, while exploring its Asian roots through premium indigenous ingredients.
<figure id="attachment_38522" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38522" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-38522" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Squid-cheong-fun-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38522" class="wp-caption-text">Squid cheong fun</figcaption></figure>
The first dish itself – squid cheong fun – lays testimony to Chef Nick&#8217;s vision. The humble rice noodle rolls have been replaced with squid, that has been lightly steamed to simulate the consistency of the traditional cheong fun. To be fair, it&#8217;s a dish that&#8217;s perhaps more to be applauded for its inventiveness than its actual flavours, but it sets the tone for the next course which is a sustainably sourced Hamachi yellowtail with apple ceviche. The fish was fresh, buttery, but nothing extraordinary; it is the citrusy apple jus, however, that convinced us of the chef&#8217;s skills. The citric – yet mildly sweet – flavours of the jus bound every element of the dish into a surprisingly harmonious creation.
<figure id="attachment_38523" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38523" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-38523" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche.jpg" alt="Bibo" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hamachi-yellowtail-paired-with-apple-ceviche-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38523" class="wp-caption-text">Hamachi yellowtail paired with apple ceviche</figcaption></figure>
However, we were in for another surprise as we took the first spoonful of the celeriac risotto. The name should have been a giveaway but we didn&#8217;t fully appreciate its aptness until we realised that traditional rice has been replaced by finely chopped celeriac, giving the dish a refreshing acidic bite. Coupled with mango and truffles, this is an item that one can gorge on, without feeling guilty about calorie intake. The next course that greeted us was Wagyu Miyazaki. With Wagyu beef, it&#8217;s difficult to go wrong and in the hands of the talented chef, it reached a poetic perfection. The succulent meat – tender on the inside, crisp on the outside – was paired perfectly with scallops, chanterelles and cherries, and was as impeccable a creation as any. Our only grouch? It finished too soon!
<figure id="attachment_38524" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38524" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-38524" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto.jpg" alt="Bibo" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Celeriac-risotto-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38524" class="wp-caption-text">Celeriac risotto</figcaption></figure>
With our expectations already sky-high, it was time to dig into the desserts duo – strawberry dacquoise and passion fruit cream. However, maybe because we were expecting nothing short of maverick genius by this time, the desserts left something to be desired. &nbsp;
Well, if the desserts fell slightly short, the wine pairings more than made up for it. Throughout the tasting, we were treated to one liquid gem after the other from the vineyards of Italy and France. Special kudos to the sommelier at Bibo, for his extensive – yet carefully handpicked – wine collection that could easily be the envy of any bar in the city.
With a winning combination of French-Asian cuisine, extensive wine selection and artsy interiors, Bibo brings the best of both worlds – fine arts and fine dining – into one creative space. At the end of the day, it&#8217;s a mighty fine experience, we say!
Reservations: <a href="www.bibo.hk">www.bibo.hk 
</a>Address: 163 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan 
Phone: +852 2956 3188
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Restaurant review: Bibo, where style meets substance

<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone wp-image-28950 aligncenter" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti-420x280.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti-420x280.jpg 420w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti.jpg 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Ceps-from-the-PIERRE-autumn-menu-600x400-opti-400x267.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" />
Polish the Laguiole and dust off the decanters! It’s time for the second instalment of our EDW restaurant review series! Running from 9-19 November, DiningCity’s popular Elite Dining Week is a by-invitation culinary extravaganza showcasing over 30 new menus from the cream of Hong Kong’s restaurant crop. The resulting menus reflect each participant’s signature often alongside uniquely themed culinary experiences. Nowhere is this more apparent than at PIERRE – a bastion of refined French cuisine at The Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong.
For EDW 2017, Pierre Chef de Cuisine Jacky Tauvry has curated a six-course menu under the watchful eye of mentor Pierre Gagnaire. These dishes champion seasonal French produce (80 percent of the restaurant’s ingredients are sourced from French locales) and the molecular wizardry which Gagnaire finesses in his Parisian flagship on Rue Balzac. &nbsp;Seasoned diners will be excited to (re)acquaint themselves with some of the Ligérien master chef’s classic creations. The Mimolette, Parmesan and Comté shavings elegantly subvert clichés associated with the ubiquitous cheese platter. The Grand Dessert is a sextet of diminutive sweets – some light others decadent – each a universe of flavour in its own right.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone wp-image-28951" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Chef-de-Cuisine-Jacky-400x600-opti-187x280.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="449" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Chef-de-Cuisine-Jacky-400x600-opti-187x280.jpg 187w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Chef-de-Cuisine-Jacky-400x600-opti-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Chef-de-Cuisine-Jacky-400x600-opti-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Chef-de-Cuisine-Jacky-400x600-opti.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" />
Gagnaire’s creative fingerprint is an undeniable part of the menu’s allure, but Tauvry injects his own insight into the proceedings with an assured and harmonious touch. Autumn is renowned for its bold hearty flavours; and the young Chef de Cuisine channels the season throughout 2017’s EDW menu. Snails persillade are perched atop a watercress velouté: evoking the imagery of a brilliantine green forest in Fall. Autumn leaves are replaced by caramelised salsifies (a root vegetable belonging to the dandelion genus) and the snails themselves – wonderfully unctuous, fragrant and moreish – would not seem out of place amidst a bounty of foraged delicacies.
Equally, wild game is now in season: traditionally sought after for its suitability to stewing and roasting. Tauvry’s take is the Grouse fillet with white bacon. Game fowl is roasted with thyme before being finished with a hint of peaty whisky; accompanied by what Tauvry somewhat self-effacingly dubs “sauerkraut” – cabbage minced until tender with fresh barely-acidic grapes. Paired with a Bordeaux from PIERRE’s monumental cellar (Gafencu recommends the Domaine de Chevalier 2000), this course is enough to convert even the staunchest steak lover into a gun toting plaid wearing hunter – eager for their next bounty of grouse from the moor.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone wp-image-28952" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti-420x280.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti-420x280.jpg 420w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti.jpg 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Footer-image-600x400-opti-400x267.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" />
The PIERRE EDW menu is tightly edited and self-assured. It’s a bravura display: balancing perennial favourites, crafted by its legendary namesake, with imaginative (yet completely comprehensible) seasonal cooking. It’s the sort of menu that suffers no mediocrity. Then again, at PIERRE, even the breadbasket deserves its own standing ovation.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
PIERRE (MANDARIN ORIENTAL) 
5 Connaught Road Central 
<a href="http://www.mandarinoriental.com">www.mandarinoriental.com</a>
Reservations at Pierre during Elite Dining Week may be made via the DiningCity app and <a href="http://www.elitediningweek.com/">EDW website</a>. Prices start at HK$1,998 (plus 10 percent gratuity).&nbsp;Stay tuned for the next instalment of our EDW restaurant review series!
Text: Randalph Lai

Tag: french cuisine

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Tag: french cuisine

Blog Section

Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

LPM Restaurant & Bar: Fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining

Review: Exquisitely-blended local ingredients are the true of heroes at Root

Set sail on an epic culinary journey at The Ocean by Olivier Bellin

Pan-tastic: Le Pan serves inspired French cuisine with an Asian tweak

Restaurant review: Bibo, where style meets substance

PIERRE delights the epicurious for Elite Dining Week 2017