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As thirsty patrons gazed into the far distance, past the twisty line of empty-glass-handed booze-queuers that preceded them, it was clear to all but the most willfully contrary that this occasion did, indeed, mark Hong Kong’s ascendance to the very highest levels of hop-flavoured maltdom. The occasion, of course, was <a href="https://beertopiahk.com/">Beertopia 2018</a>, the seventh iteration of the semi-legendary quafferthon, which came to a slightly cloudy head on Hong Kong’s Central Harbourfront in early October.&nbsp;
Even more remarkable than the volume of imbibery afoot was the sheer volume of craft beer there was for imbibing. Wind back to 2011 – or 1 BC (Before Craft) as pintaphiles refer to it – and Hong Kong, while hardly beer-free, was merely awash with the bog-standard brewings of the big boys. While there was the ever-present threat of a Tsingtao-tsunami or a Foster’s flash flood, traces of yer actual craft beer were rarer than body-popping Buddhists.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-41220" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1.jpg" alt="brew" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-1-min-1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Even The Globe, one of the most iconic of the island’s pubs, despite boasting a dozen taps and a 200-strong beer menu, was limited to serving solely-imported bevvies. As owner Toby Cooper lamented, looking back at that time: “While there was no shortage of imported beers, local craft beers were harder to come by than a peak time seat on the Island Line.” 
Deciding to be part of the solution, in 2013 – just 12 months after the very first Beertopia – Cooper co-founded the Craft Beer Association of Hong Kong. Today, as sign of its success, the Association can point to the fact that Hong Kong is now home to 35 microbreweries. Five years ago, there were just two.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-41223" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-4-min-1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Of the 33 brewcomers, two have proved particularly influential – Rohit Dugar, founder of Young Master Ales, and <a href="//www.gafencushop.com/christopher-wong-craft-beer-guru/">Christopher Wong, his counterpart over at HK Brewcraft</a>, Explaining how it all started for him, Wong says: “In 2013, a few friends and I – all of us truly endeared to beer – realised that Hong Kong lacked a home brew store, one where you could buy everything, including actual brewing equipment. Thus HK Brewcraft was born and we’ve never really looked back.”
Dugar has a similar story to tell, saying: “When people realise that something has potential, things tend to move quickly in Hong Kong. In our case, at least some of our popularity is down the distinctly Asian ingredients and local flavour profiles we’ve favoured. For instance, we use local ingredients like soba (buckwheat), which allow us to create beers that are truly local in flavour.”
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-41222" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-3-min-1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Others, though, have prioritised history over geography. In the case of the Moonzen Brewery – founded in Kwun Tong in 2014 – it teamed up with Beijing-based Jing-A Brewing to recreate one particularly ancient beer, the recipe for which was uncovered during an archeological dig in Xi’an.
For those not opting to resurrect the craft beers of classical times, wily marketing has often sufficed.&nbsp;In the case of the splendidly unimaginatively named Hong Kong Beer Company, brews such as Dragon’s Back Pale Ale and Big Wave Bay IPA had just enough hometown appeal to woo the locals. Whatever the strategy adopted, the outcome is undeniable, with some 600,000 litres of craft beer now knocked back every year from Hong Kong Beer Company alone.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-41221" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Capture-2-min-1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Above all, it’s the desire to create something new that seems to inspire most craft beer creators. One such case is Mike Hu, an amateur home brewer who has taken it up as a hobby. Testifying to the sheer joy of his own experience, Hu says: “Once one of my beers is ready, I get together with the other home brew guys and we check out each other’s brews. It’s great fun.” 
For those looking to take the hobby to the next level, Hong Kong now even has its own version of a home brewing contest – the Hoppy Cup – which takes place later this month. With everyone from newbies to old hands welcome to compete, no doubt the longer queues at future Beertopias will be for many of the winning brews.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Hop Kong: A veritable brew’s who of the SAR

Christopher Wong gave up a promising accounting career to pursue his passion for beer. Now he is the head brewer for <a href="http://www.hitachinohk.com/">Hitachino HK Brewery</a>, has co-founded <a href="http://www.hkbrewcraft.com/">HK Brewcraft</a> and <a href="https://www.heroesbeerco.com/">Heroes Beer Co</a>, and stands at the frontier of Hong Kong’s burgeoning craft beer scene&#8230;
<div style="width: 640px;" class="wp-video">
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&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
Where was your love of craft beer kindled?
Growing up, I’d always enjoyed the occasional drink with my family, but I only really and truly became enamoured with beer while I was in San Francisco working as an accountant after graduating from university. My Damascene moment came when I was introduced to a beer called Anchor Steam, which really kicked off the whole craft beer scene in the US. It completely changed my view of what a beer could be, inspiring me to take up home brewing myself.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-40344 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino.jpg" alt="Christopher Wong now works as Head Brewer for Hitachino" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Christopher-Wong-now-works-as-Head-Brewer-for-Hitachino-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
How did your first experiments go?
Well, around the time I wanted to start experimenting with home brewing, I first heard about SF Brewcraft, one of San Francisco’s most-well known beer stores, run – at the time – by Griz, a sort of Santa Claus character. The first time I walked in, I told him I wanted to brew something like Corona, one of the most popular Mexican beers. Suffice to say, he was not impressed. Instead, he scribbled something on a sheet of paper – which I still have – and that was the recipe for Lawnmower Beer. I loved it so much that my business – HK Brewcraft – is named after Griz’s original outlet.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-40346 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing.jpg" alt="HK Brewcraft is an homage to SF Brewcraft, where Chris first learnt home brewing" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HK-Brewcraft-is-a-homage-to-SF-Brewcraft-where-Chris-first-learnt-home-brewing-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
What finally made you decide to bring that concept to Hong Kong?
When I met my then-wife-to-be at a wedding in Hong Kong. I decided to move here full time, switching from my company’s San Francisco operation to its Hong Kong office. Once here, I completely changed industries and decided to head up a restaurant in Tin Hau called Kin&#8217;s Terrace. Working there meant my nights were focused on my cheffing duties, leaving the daytime free for me to focus on my home brewing, which was becoming more than just a hobby.
It was around then – in 2013 – that, realising there was no proper home brew store in Hong Kong, a group of friends and I decided to launch one. We wanted it to be a place where you could buy everything from malt and hops to actual brewing equipment, while also finding out just how to properly brew beer at home – and that is how HKBrewcraft was born. Just a few months after our first small Tin Hau outlet opened, the level of demand gave us the confidence to open a far bigger store in Central. And we’ve never looked back.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-40340 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-gave-up-a-successful-accounting-career-to-pursue-craft-beer-glory.jpg" alt="Chris gave up a successful accounting career to pursue craft beer glory" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-gave-up-a-successful-accounting-career-to-pursue-craft-beer-glory.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-gave-up-a-successful-accounting-career-to-pursue-craft-beer-glory-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-gave-up-a-successful-accounting-career-to-pursue-craft-beer-glory-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-gave-up-a-successful-accounting-career-to-pursue-craft-beer-glory-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-gave-up-a-successful-accounting-career-to-pursue-craft-beer-glory-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Your beer interests have broadened since then… 
Definitely. Right now, I’m in charge of making beer on several different fronts. Firstly – and most obviously – there is HK Brewcraft. As well as being a home brew supplier, it also operates as an independent nanobrewery, which also doubles as a training academy for would-be home brewers. There’s also my main nine-to-five job – head brewer at the Hitachino HK Brewery, a Japanese company best-known for the Nest Beer brand.
Then there’s the Heroes Beer Co, my latest venture. It’s a very interesting idea and it’s based on the notion that everyone can be a beer superstar, a concept that is reflected in our tagline: “Unleash the hero within”. Part of our USP is that every Heroes’ beer has been inspired by a real person. Our Hunk Sir Milfee Porter, for instance, takes its name from a home brewer who was notorious for experimenting with unusual combinations. Essentially, it’s a lactose-infused brew that tastes a little like cha chaan teng milk tea.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-40345 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia.jpg" alt="For Chris, HK boasts the fastest-growing craft beer scene in Asia" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/For-Chris-HK-boasts-the-fastest-growing-craft-beer-scene-in-Asia-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
How do you think Hong Kong’s craft beer scene has evolved over recent years?
Well, 2013 was something of a turning point for the sector. For one thing, it was the year when several of the people now seen as key players first met. That includes the crew behind Young Master Brewery, the folks at The Globe – the headquarters of the Craft Beer Association of Hong Kong – and, of course, the HK Brewcraft team. Alongside several of the more dedicated local importers, we collectively pushed to increase the range of craft beers available in the city, while also raising their profile among the local population. In addition, of course, there is Beertopia, Hong Kong’s very own beer festival. As a result of all this activity, the city’s become Asia’s fastest-growing craft beer hub.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-40341 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-love-of-craft-beer-started-in-San-Francisco-with-Anchor-Steam.jpg" alt="Chris' love of craft beer started in San Francisco with Anchor Steam" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-love-of-craft-beer-started-in-San-Francisco-with-Anchor-Steam.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-love-of-craft-beer-started-in-San-Francisco-with-Anchor-Steam-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-love-of-craft-beer-started-in-San-Francisco-with-Anchor-Steam-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-love-of-craft-beer-started-in-San-Francisco-with-Anchor-Steam-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Chris-love-of-craft-beer-started-in-San-Francisco-with-Anchor-Steam-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Do you have a personal favourite beer?
Oh yes. For me, Anchor Steam is really something special. It’s the beer that started me on my home brewing journey and got me where I am today. Another beer close to my heart is Seriously, Heroes Beer Co’s debut brew. It takes its inspiration from old-fashioned, no-nonsense, bone-dry American Indian Pale Ale and I absolutely love it.
Thank you.
Interview by: Tenzing Thondup 
Photos: Neville Lee 
Art Direction &amp; Styling: San Wong 
Venue: Second Draft 
Wardrobe: COS &amp; Suitsupply
&nbsp;

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Hop Kong: A veritable brew’s who of the SAR

Christopher Wong: Our interview with HK’s go-to craft beer guru