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As the child of diamond merchants, Payal Shah may have been destined to design jewellery, but with L’Dezen, she has cut her own dazzling path. She speaks endearingly of her celebrity clients, her affordable new line and going home for lunch every day…
Your parents were diamond merchants. Were you fated to follow them into the industry, or did you have other aspirations growing up? 
Honestly, the biggest thing I learnt from my entrepreneurial parents is what it takes to run a good business. My dad is great at marketing and my mum is a whiz at managing the accounts. That said, I don’t know if I really wanted to be a jeweller from the get-go. I was more interested in creating design solutions, which led me to study architecture at university. For me, the attraction was that it would open up so many career opportunities, be it engineering, product design or interior design. Ultimately, though, I came full circle by starting my own jewellery brand in 2011.
<figure id="attachment_60651" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-60651" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-60651" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1.jpg" alt="gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-60651" class="wp-caption-text">Wardrobe: Earrings, bracelet and ring by L’Dezen by Payal Shah; Top and pants by Jina Shili; Heels by Amina Muaddi, courtesy of Lane Crawford</figcaption></figure>
What led you to launch L’Dezen? 
I started L’Dezen almost by chance. After I studied architectural design in London, I returned to Hong Kong to work for a hospitality firm. I’ve always had a love of design, and in addition to my day job, I used to make jewellery for my personal use. This was obviously influenced by the fact that both my parents are diamond merchants, so I had ready access to these beautiful stones.
As I was creating these pieces for myself, I attended the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, and one of the businesses there loved what I was wearing and asked if I would be interested in making a capsule collection for them. They then flew me out to Vegas, and I remember how much fun it was and the amazing reception my pieces received. That set off a spark in my head, and I said, “I think I need to start my own business.” It didn’t happen immediately, though; I continued collaborating with that brand to learn more about the industry and how it works. Eventually, as I gained confidence and found the right resources, I started L’Dezen. That was about 10 years ago.
<figure id="attachment_60652" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-60652" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-60652" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2.jpg" alt="gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_2-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-60652" class="wp-caption-text">Wardrobe: Earrings and ring by L’Dezen by Payal Shah; Jacket, top and long skirt by Arpita Mehta; Heels by Mach &amp; Mach, courtesy of Lane Crawford</figcaption></figure>
How would you describe the style of L’Dezen? 
L’Dezen jewellery for me is the solution to all things beautiful, with a flexible edge that means our clients can wear these beautiful forms of art from day to night. I love that our pieces can be avant-garde, feminine or rock-chic, depending on how you style it, with the same creation looking entirely different on two separate people. Ultimately, it’s the strong, bold asthete of the jewellery that helps someone’s inner personality shine through.
Looking back, what are the most meaningful pieces you’ve designed? 
The most unique piece is a pair of irregularly shaped earrings featuring a winged flower motif. I originally made it for a competition here in the city, and when it won, I was so proud to have my work showcased during the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Then, a few years later, I was asked to style Mary J. Blige for the Met Gala – which was a huge honour, because when it comes to fashion, this may be the most important event of the year. She ended up wearing that same pair of earrings, and as she’s such a cultural icon and fashionista, having her don them was pretty much an award in itself.
<figure id="attachment_60653" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-60653" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-60653" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3.jpg" alt="gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_3-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-60653" class="wp-caption-text">Wardrobe: Earrings and sweater by L’Dezen by Payal Shah; Boots by Bottega Veneta, courtesy of Lane Crawford</figcaption></figure>
You’ve worked with so many A-listers. Which among your celebrity encounters particularly stands out? 
Oh, I have the cutest story. During the first years of L’Dezen, I randomly got an email from Mindy Kaling and it was so innocuous! It was from a Gmail account, and she said, ‘Hi, it’s Mindy Kaling. I love your pieces, and I was wondering if you’d be interested in styling me for the Cannes Film Festival.’ Honestly, I thought it was spam or a prank, because I love her so much and see her as a role model, given her trailblazing career as a successful South Asian woman in Hollywood.
So, I replied that I would love to, but asked to continue the conversation on Facetime, so that I would have proof that it was really her. She instantly sent me her number and the next thing I know, she’s sending me looks she’s interested in, and I’m helping her narrow down jewellery choices to match. It almost felt like we were best friends picking out outfits for a Friday night. She was so down-to-earth, and that made the entire experience even more special.
Do you have any upcoming projects or collections that you’d like to share? 
L’Dezen is our high-end, handmade jewellery line, and over the past two years, we’ve added a few more styles to that, but simultaneously we’ve launched a sister brand called Psylish. Basically Psylish addresses where the demand is today, which is for flexible jewellery that can be worn day or night. It still has that L’Dezen aesthetic of being beautiful and quirky yet elegant, but is more accessibly priced to appeal to a younger crowd. Having both brands is great because I can be more artistically creative with one, while the other allows me to reach a bigger audience.
<figure id="attachment_60654" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-60654" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-60654" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4.jpg" alt="gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_4-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-60654" class="wp-caption-text">Wardrobe: Earrings and ring by L’Dezen by Payal Shah; Top and skirt by Été; Heels by Cult Gaia, courtesy of Lane Crawford</figcaption></figure>
With two businesses now up and running, what’s a typical day like for you? 
Both L’Dezen and Psylish are run from one office, so thankfully I don’t have to be back and forth between the two. An average day for me starts with prayers, drinking some healthy green juice, then walking 10 minutes to work. For lunch, I normally go back home; we have lunch as a family every day, which is a great way to catch up with everyone since we don’t see each other that often on the weekends. Evenings tend to vary: sometimes I attend an event, other times I hang out with friends, and I try to fit in regular workouts whether it’s muay thai or going for a run. To wind down, I like to watch a TV show or movie before heading to bed.
Covid-19 has had a big impact on everyone. What challenges did you personally face, and what lessons have you learnt? 
Well, I used to be in and out of the city quite a bit pre-Covid. In fact, I travelled so often in the past eight years that I was already considering a more consistent lifestyle, one that would keep me here for longer stretches of time. I had already been deep diving into e-commerce because it might allow me to continue reaching an international audience without having to hop on a plane every couple of weeks for trade shows, trunk shows and so forth. Hence, for me at least, the timing of the pandemic was quite fortuitous; it forced me to adopt the more stable lifestyle I was aiming for, one with a better work-life balance.
<figure id="attachment_60655" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-60655" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-60655" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5.jpg" alt="gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_5-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-60655" class="wp-caption-text">Wardrobe: Necklace by L’Dezen by Payal Shah; Mini shirt dress by Alexander Wang, courtesy of Lane Crawford; Heels by Alexander Wang, courtesy of Lane Crawford</figcaption></figure>
If you were stuck on a desert island, what three items would be must-haves? 
Sunscreen, to protect my skin from all that exposure; my Apple Watch, to keep me fit and track the time; and red chillies – eating chilli with food is an absolute must for me.
Finally, what book would you recommend everyone to read? 
To be honest, I’ve probably only read a handful of books in my entire life, but I’d really recommend Ladies Who Launch in Hong Kong by Maseena Ziegler, which features the stories of eight women who ran start-ups in the city. I reached out to the author, who had lived her whole life here before moving to New York, and she ended up becoming my mentor.&nbsp;
On the other hand, I’m a big fan of podcasts, and one I’d highly advocate is Business Wars. It pits two major companies from the same industry together – Nike vs. Adidas for example – tracking their differences, similarities and rise to fame. It’s engaging, educational and I can’t see anyone not loving it.
Thank you.
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
Interview by: Tenzing Thondup 
Photographer: Jack Law 
Videography: Kingsley Lau 
Art Direction &amp; Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma 
Make Up Artist: Iana Zinovieva Hair Stylist: Vic Lai 
Locations: 181 and at Fortnum &amp; Mason and The Hari Hong Kong

gafencu_people_interview_payal_shah_ldezen_september_2021

Multi-faceted jewellery designer and founder of L’Dezen Payal Shah adorns the brightest of stars

Professor Eric Yim is the chairman of the Hong Kong Design Centre, the chairman of the Design Council Hong Kong, a professor in Hong Kong Polytechnic University’s School of Design, the Director of the Ocean Park Corporation and member on the boards of a substantial number of Hong Kong&#8217;s official bodies. He’s also an award-winning architect, a furniture designer and a successful entrepreneur, but above all, Prof. Eric Yim is a true visionary who&#8217;s changing Hong Kong&#8217;s landscape, by design intervention.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-45930" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3.jpg" alt="Professor Eric Yim " width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-2-3-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Would you say your interest in design dates back to your childhood?
In my early years, I was more interested in the technical side of design. I completed my secondary education in a technical school in Hong Kong, where I learnt about woodwork, metallurgy, technical drawing, etc. This sparked my interest in materials, forms and spatial relationships. After that, I started to develop a true interest in design and craft. Despite that, I chose not to study fine art. Instead, I opted for architecture, believing it to be a discipline that requires both logical and creative thinking – &nbsp;the perfect combination of my nascent interests. So I studied for a degree in architecture at Manchester University, before going on to complete my Masters from Cambridge.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-45929" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-7.jpg" alt="Professor Eric Yim " width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-7.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-7-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-7-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-7-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-7-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
&nbsp;What was it that brought you back to Hong Kong after your time in Europe?
Well, after I finished my studies at Cambridge, I joined an architectural firm in London, one that specialised in the design of cultural spaces. My work there took me Zwickau in Germany, where we eventually set up an office. Once that was in place, I felt it was the right time to come back to Hong Kong, maybe for just 12 months, and get a feel for the local architectural scene. Once I returned, though, I realised it was very difficult to win cultural space commissions unless you worked in the government sector. Instead, I turned my hand to working on some designs for my father’s furniture business. Fortunately, the items I designed were well received. So I decided to launch my own business.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-45928" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3.jpg" alt="Professor Eric Yim " width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-2-3-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Why did you choose to branch out on your own instead of working for your father?
My father only made steel furniture, which he then sold via retail channels. For my part, though, I was designing the kind of storage systems where it is necessary to work closely with the lead architects on any development to ensure that the furniture fits exactly into the building. I was not doing retail work, but rather contract-based designing for commercial clients. When we started, it was a very small operation with just four people. In the beginning, &nbsp;I was acting as the sales manager, the project manager, the delivery guy and even the cleaner.
Was it easy for you to switch to designing furniture after you&#8217;d been designing buildings?
To me, they&#8217;re basically one and the same. While the end product and scale may be different, the essence is the same. You are still trying to assemble things from a variety of materials – whether concrete, glass and bricks or steel, wood, veneer and fabric. Ultimately, if you&#8217;re designing a building or making a piece of furniture, the ultimate goal should be to create something beautiful, something that will enhance people’s lives.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-45931" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-9.jpg" alt="Professor Eric Yim" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-9.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-9-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-9-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-9-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-9-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
In what ways do you think good design can truly enhance life?
Design is everywhere. Let&#8217;s say you want to go to a music concert. Even before you set foot in the auditorium, you have been affected by design. The website where you booked the ticket, the traffic on the road, the entrance to the venue&#8230;everything has to be designed. Look at the London Underground, for instance, that&#8217;s an excellent example of design thinking. Is it very beautiful? No, nobody says it is beautiful, but it does serve its purpose seamlessly on a daily basis. That&#8217;s great design right there.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-45932" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4.jpg" alt="Professor Eric Yim" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-4-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
What exactly do you mean by ‘design thinking’?
Design is a process. It&#8217;s not just someone doing fancy sketches on a piece of paper. That may be part of design, but it’s far from all of it. Real design involves proper ‘design thinking’, a process where you actually go back to the root of any problem. Let&#8217;s say you are designing a chair. You have to start off by asking: “Why do you need a chair?”, “What type of chair do you need?”, “Why do you need another chair when you already have so many chairs?”. Basically, you need to identify the purpose of this chair – the thing that sets it apart from all other chairs. Otherwise you will just be creating more and more stuff that’s destined for landfill.
What advice would you give to aspiring designers?
Be creative, but also be curious. Ask &#8216;why&#8217; at every turn. Never think you&#8217;ve learnt everything that there is to learn– the world is constantly changing. Today, the same problem may require a different solution to the one it did 10 years ago. Always keep exploring possible solutions.
Thank you.
<div style="width: 640px;" class="wp-video"><video class="wp-video-shortcode" id="video-45927-2" width="640" height="360" autoplay="1" preload="metadata" controls="controls"><source type="video/mp4" src="https://www.igafencu.com/video/1906/1906_GMHK_Interview_EricYim.mp4?_=2" /><a href="https://www.igafencu.com/video/1906/1906_GMHK_Interview_EricYim.mp4">https://www.igafencu.com/video/1906/1906_GMHK_Interview_EricYim.mp4</a></video></div>

Interview by: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay 
Photos: Jack Law 
Art direction: San Wong 
Video: Kingsley Lau 
Venue: Hong Kong Design Centre

Tête-à-tête with Prof. Eric Yim, one of Hong Kong’s true transformative visionaries

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Multi-faceted jewellery designer and founder of L’Dezen Payal Shah adorns the brightest of stars

Tête-à-tête with Prof. Eric Yim, one of Hong Kong’s true transformative visionaries