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With the arrival of spring, it is time not only to update your wardrobe but also to rejuvenate your fragrance collection. Fresh, invigorating and revitalising, these men’s spring scents are sure to dispel any dark clouds blotting the mind. Citrus, floral and earthy notes are the staples for spring, but in 2023, aroma trends are changing, so musky and woody bouquets also announce their arrival.



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Some of the fragrances are as crisp and bright as the summer sun, while others are more transitional – think warm musk in a lighter application than the one that brings olfactory comfort in winter. A few could be candidates for your next signature scent, while others are ideal for a change of pace.


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Acqua di Parma “Colonia” Originally created in 1916, Colonia is the very definition of a timeless classic, a fragrance that expresses sunny elegance on all occasions. Acqua di Parma’s signature blend of bright lemon, Calabrian bergamot and orange instantly emerges once it is sprayed, and is amplified even more in the aromatic heart of the fragrance where lavender and hints of rose harmoniously intertwine with rosemary. Warm and precious woody notes of vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli round off the base of this iconic Italian eau de cologne.


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Amouage “Reflection” 



For this spicy eau de parfum, Amouage combines the strong aromas of red pepper leaves, rosemary and bitter orange. Regardless of whether you like to cloak yourself in fragrance or cap it at a couple of spritzes, the Omani perfumer has perfected heady blends ranging from springy concoctions to moodier collectives that will linger all day – and leave an impression that will last much longer.


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Arquiste “Peau” This one is for the romantics – as the New York fragrance house notes on the box, Peau is inspired by Roman Emperor Hadrian’s memories of Antinous, his lost lover. Salty, peppery and musky notes blend to evoke intimacy, while its main ingredients comprise ambergris, clean musk accord, clary sage, white pepper from India, labdanum derivatives and okoumé wood from Gabon.


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Chanel “Bleu de Chanel” Probably the most popular among young professionals, Bleu de Chanel is the safest option when you are starting your journey to discover your signature scent. Its year-round appeal unsurprisingly ensures its enduring status as one of the top creations in the fragrance sphere. A mixture of fine notes of grapefruit and labdanum, in particular, make it well-suited for spring, imbuing both earthy and citrusy overtures.


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Diptyque “Do Son” This Diptyque blue bottle, a limited edition from the Parisian parfumerie, captures notes of tuberose as well as orange blossom and jasmine. The fragrance was inspired by Yves Coueslant’s summer childhood memories in Vietnam, with the scent of the tropical ornamental plant leading the way. Sweet and creamy with a floral freshness that calls to mind winding down in the shade after a long day out in the sun, it’s an essence that will soften over hours of wear, enveloping into a scented ‘aura’.


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Elorea “Heaven” This modern floral scent with a Korean sensibility is romantic and inviting, beginning with sensual roses. Intriguing hints of pink pepper and citrus add dimension to the florals, followed by notes of passion fruit and green tea. This fresh, fruity waft adds a lovely blend of subtle sweetness, balancing the fragrant botanical of freesia, which deepens with wood and vanilla aromas for a velvety finish.



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Ermenegildo Zegna “XXX Verdigris” The XXX collection of fragrances is one of Ermenegildo Zegna’s most innovative yet – perfect for those with uncompromising tastes. Defined by a signature clash of organic and metallic, Verdigris eau de parfum represents olfactory experimentation via a fresh, woody atmosphere, articulated through powerful notes including cardamom essential oil and violet leaves.


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Officine Universelle Buly “Eau Triple Fleur d’Oranger” You can trust Buly 1803 as the creator of your next signature fragrance since they have been ensuring the Paris elite smell sweet for more than 200 years. An explosion of citrus flavours – orange flower, lemon and neroli – along with sweet freesia and a delicate white musk characterise this scent, which truly encapsulates spring in a bottle. It is ideal for a morning pick-me-up or an evening nightcap.


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Parfums de Marly “Carlisle” When winter comes to an end, woods and spices don’t have to take a backseat; in fact, the correct combination can heat things up even more. The niche Paris perfume brand conjures elements of green apple into a seductive fusion of vanilla and patchouli that is musky yet crisp. This scent will put your companions in a blissful trance whether you are wearing it at an intimate dinner or a bigger night out.


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Régime des Fleurs “Rock River Melody” With Rock River Melody, Regime des Fleurs founder Alia Raza and Paris-based editor Christopher Niquet aim not for gender neutrality, but for an intriguing deconstruction of the traditionally masculine ingredients that make up a classically green spicy wood bouquet. The result of their collaboration is a sparklingly crisp and fresh green scent, while the spicy wood base boasts the unmistakable potency of an old-school male fragrance.

Aro-Man Therapy: Musk haves and male florals – 10 scents for men to start afresh in spring

Few things signify luxury as powerfully as a perfume. The world of scents is huge and diverse – we follow our nose to bring you the most intoxicating and long-lasting fragrances to wear over the season. Spritz, spritz and thank us later!
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Journey Woman, Oman&#8217;s Amouage 
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Founded in 1983, a niche perfume house based in the fragrance-obsessed sultanate of Oman, Amouage, has redefined the Arabian way of fine opulence. It&#8217;s very East meets West fragrances, made&nbsp;by world-class perfumers in Paris, Grasse, Geneva, and New York.&nbsp;Journey, a perfect blend of floral, fruity, leathery is an enigmatic fragrance for women. Christopher&nbsp;Chong, Amouage’s Creative Director draws on his Chinese roots to pay a homage to underground society of Shanghai in the &#8217;20s. &nbsp;In Chong&#8217;s own words, Journey is a kind of &#8220;harmonious osmanthus that people haven’t smelt before&#8221;, blended with white florals, vanilla, and leather. 

More information <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=&amp;cad=rja&amp;uact=8&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjq7pOOpJr2AhX-slYBHVtsCPsQFnoECAwQAQ&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amouage.com%2Fjourney-woman.html&amp;usg=AOvVaw3i5IjF0p9Gb7qnvxcOs_gN" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.&nbsp; 

Oud Satin Mood,&nbsp;Francis Kurkdjian
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The intoxicating scent , inspired by oud wood from Laos, one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, is one of those&nbsp;few truly universally flattering scents for men and women.&nbsp; An extraordinary fragrance whose sillage evokes the pleasure and sensuality of a delicate piece of flowing satin, this is surely an attention-grabbing scent. Far more over-powering or over-bearing, its powerfully sophisticated, perfectly balanced notes of floral, woody and oriental notes sits well on the skin for an all-day long fragrance. Available at <a href="https://www.lanecrawford.com.hk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Lane Crawford </a>and <a href="https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwj5sNnO9Kb2AhXZ1pYKHQHmDR4YABAAGgJ0bA&amp;ae=2&amp;sig=AOD64_346g2Du7fqpktuCgHltL2Vzf6Pzw&amp;q&amp;adurl&amp;ved=2ahUKEwi54NHO9Kb2AhUOy4sBHUhRBhsQ0Qx6BAgDEAE" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Joyce Beauty stores</a> in Hong Kong, the price per spritz is high, but you&#8217;re paying for the best ingredients, top craftsmanship and the decadent blend.&nbsp;
Bahar, The Spirit of Dubai
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This amber woody fragrance for both men and women is a fresh, lingering ode to the summer – a must-have easy, aquatic fragrance for days when the sun shines bright. Much like wafting sea breeze, the scent is a delicate balance between the oceanic, zesty top notes and the hint of jasmine, spices with undertones of sandalwood and vanilla. It is housed in a bottle that mirrors the serenity of the ocean – the scent a perfect reminder of the azure blue sky and a day spent by the rolling waves. &nbsp;And you don&#8217;t have to take our word, try out the intensely fresh fragrance at the urban oasis of scent-lovers, the <a href="http://www.scentedniche.com/index.php?route=common/home" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Scented Niche</a> boutique on Gough Street, Central.&nbsp;
More information <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thespiritofdubai/?hl=en" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;
Also Read:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=&amp;cad=rja&amp;uact=8&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj7i_uJiLb2AhVPs1YBHb9ZD8kQFnoECAoQAQ&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.igafencu.com%2Fr%2Fscented-niche%2F&amp;usg=AOvVaw13KIJc44WvEEvGjse-1qmB">Scent Master :&nbsp;Patrick Hui, founder of Scented Niche, on his favourite fragrances, finding boutique scents and delivering independent labels to his discerning Hong Kong clientele</a>
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Rose on Rose Trilogy, Tom Ford
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-64855 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-11-1-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Sultry, majorly flirty – there isn&#8217;t a single Tom Ford perfume that doesn&#8217;t scream intoxication. Inspired by the legendary fashion icons&#8217;s private rose garden, this provocative trilogy of <a href="https://www.harbourcity.com.hk/en/article/tom-ford-rose-garden-collection/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rose D&#8217;Amalfi, Rose De Chine and Rose De Russie</a>, is a wild bouquet of rare and incomparable hybrids offering an evocative journey of scent and sensation. Juicy, flowery, full-bodied and seductive – these perfumes are love-at-first sight and will give your regular date night fragrance a run for its money!
More information <a href="https://www.harbourcity.com.hk/en/article/tom-ford-rose-garden-collection/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;
Also Read: <a href="//www.gafencushop.com/ode-to-oud-agarwood-more-expensive-than-gold/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">An Ode to Oud – Here&#8217;s what makes oud more expensive than gold!</a>
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<div class="listicle-slide-hed">Cyrus Eau de Parfum, Moro Dabron</div>
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Moro Dabron has taken the world of niche perfumery by a storm. Scents which reek of literature and art (Vita draws inspiration by writer and Virginia Woolf&#8217;s lover Vita Sackville-West), Cyrus – is reminiscent of forest haze after a rainstorm. At the heart, it has an intriguing crisp hint of pine needles, and after minutes of application the perfume leaves a trail of wintery oak moss, musk, Cyprus and patchouli. Spritz this for as long as you want the warmth of winter, of coats and scarves, lingering on&#8230;
More information <a href="https://www.selfridges.com/HK/en/cat/moro-dabron-cyrus-eau-de-parfum-50ml_R03755417/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;
Also read: <a href="//www.gafencushop.com/unique-rare-perfume-facts-gafencu-hongkong/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Heavenly Scents – Lesser known, rare facts about perfumes</a>
Layali&nbsp;Eau de Parfum, Swiss Arabian
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<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-64829 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Untitled-design-8-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />Layali by Swiss Arabian is an alluring scent inspired by women who live for an enchanting persona. Perfect for the balmy Hong Kong spring, the intense fruity floral fragrance fuses with the precious oud, and the strong scent is complemented by the zesty beauty of orange flowers with spring-like nuances of green floral notes. It&#8217;s the masterful blend of leathery oud and citrusy, soft elements makes it an exotic unisex fragrance.&nbsp;
More information <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=&amp;cad=rja&amp;uact=8&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjdtv3Wo5r2AhXJk1YBHVI4BOsQFnoECAcQAQ&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fswissarabian.com%2Fperfumes%2Fwomen%2Flayali-2%2F&amp;usg=AOvVaw2xGyNqG-voimY04SYT48OT" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;
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Luxury Fragrances: Exotic must-have scents for 2022

Forget frankincense, and patchouli is so last century. Jasmine? Well, that’s just mundane. There’s a surprising five-star ingredient in the world of luxury scents that has been wafting into the Western consciousness of late. It is intense enough to stir the most jaded nose, and sufficiently surreal to intrigue non-traditionalists. Rich, woody, soft yet smoky; astoundingly rare, exotically precious and more expensive than gold – please give it up for oud.
Fragrance is subjective, yet oud (pronounced ‘oodh’) is the universal, lingering combination of luxury, fantasy and passion, blurring the line between great and extraordinary. Often described as “the scent from heaven” or “liquid gold”, it was ignored by the European master perfumers for thousands of years, but it’s once hidden sensuality is now finally etched in the scent-makers’ palette. Giving a modern spin to this old-world ingredient, they are experimenting with notes and creating strangely irresistible, singular, exclusive and sometimes startling blends.
<figure id="attachment_63908" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-63908" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-63908 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10.png" alt="Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 10" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-10-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-63908" class="wp-caption-text">(Photo courtesy of Tom Ford)</figcaption></figure>
The Trail of Scent: From Tom Ford to MFK&nbsp;
The scent was first introduced to the Western world by designer Tom Ford in 2007 in his Oud Wood perfume. As Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie in Harrods, London, where the initial collection was showcased, put it:
<blockquote>“Tom Ford creates the most directional fragrances; where he leads, others follow.”</blockquote>
They were right: Jo Malone, Christian Dior, Armani Privé and Maison Francis Kurkdjian tapped into the trend and oud soon became mainstream – if that’s the right word for something so rarefied. The prospect of getting under people’s skin and bagging a share of the fragrance industry’s massive US$31 billion year-on-year revenue stream led to the bottling of an enticing number of such rich, woody, smoky and sensual perfumes.
Visionary French master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who boasts a keen understanding of how raw ingredients behave, finds oud fascinating. He’s drawn to its animalistic notes, finding it “a wild beast (yet) to be tamed”. So, what exactly is oud – where does it come from, and what makes it one of the most expensive fragrance ingredients known to the human nose?
<figure id="attachment_63907" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-63907" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-63907 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9.png" alt="Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 9" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-9-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-63907" class="wp-caption-text">(Photo courtesy of Maison Francis Kurkdijian)</figcaption></figure>
Smells like Money 
Not a pretty plant, oud is Arabic for wood and is derived exclusively from the agar, a tree in the evergreen Aquilaria family. When the heartwood of agar is infected with a specific type of mould, it oozes a sticky, scented resin to protect itself from the parasitic infection. The oil from this resin – oud or agarwood – is extremely precious. There is nothing quite like it in the olfactory world – dark, sensual and intense, kilo for kilo it is more expensive than gold but strangely it’s just an incredibly aromatic anti-fungal!
“The scent has a fruity facet … and a very waxy side. It’s potent animal inflection is powerful, persistent and very special”
The main reason oud is so expensive is its rarity; not every tree gets infected with mould and thus emits the rich resin. For reasons still unknown to science, only some two to seven percent of wild agar trees produce this gooey ‘gold’, and experts claim the very best oud comes from the oldest trees, which are even more scant. Lower quality oud may cost about US$5,000 per kilogram, but the finest variety of Cambodian oud can easily command beyond 10 times that price. But price is directly proportional to ageing – a decade ago, an anonymous collector gave US$7,000 for barely half a teaspoon of pure oud oil made in 1982 for Sultan Qaboos of Oman from 100-year-old agarwood trees.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-63905 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5.png" alt="Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 5" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-5-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
History of Agarwood&nbsp; 
Writings from the Tang and Song Dynasties show agarwood was a valued commodity in China. Its intoxicating scent was revered across religions and there is evidence of it being extracted for fragrance in Vietnam as early as the third century A.D. 
Renowned for his heady, enchanting perfumes, Kurkdjian travelled to Laos and Cambodia to source a “very specific type of oud, aged for 15 years and harvested with the strictest quality standards”. The scent, which infuses the maison’s Oud eau de parfum, has “a very fruity facet, reminiscent of peach and saffron, and has a very waxy side. Its potent animal inflection is powerful, persistent and very special.”
From Assam (India) to Middle East &#8211; Thirst for Gold 
Oud possesses a cultural significance in the Middle East that is hard for outsiders to grasp. When burned in the house to welcome guests, wafts of the delicious, musky aroma linger in a precious, purified trail. Gifted to wives, bosses and friends, each chip of agarwood tells a different scented story, encapsulating the culture and life of Arabs. There is no such olfactory parallel in the Western realm.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-63906 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8.png" alt="Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 8" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-8-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Oud worn in the Middle East smells very different from the scent that infuses today’s Western perfumes. Abdulla Ajmal, third-generation scion of the Ajmal Perfumes family of India, says that foreign perfumers douse the earthiness of oud by blending it with the likes of patchouli, jasmine, bergamo, green neroli and tuberose. Traditionally in the Arab world, the liquid gold stands on its own as an essential oil.
Ajmal Perfumes, which moved to Dubai in the 1970s, has long sourced its high-quality agarwood chips from Assam, India. With rising demand and scarce supply, industry players keep tight-lipped about the exact location of the aromatic wood. “Everyone has their sources and they’re protective about them,” says Ajmal. “Only dealers on the ground know where the wild Aquilaria forests exist and haven’t yet been destroyed.”
<blockquote>
“Only dealers on the ground know where the wild Aquilaria forests exist and haven’t yet been destroyed”
</blockquote>
The chance occurrence of resin formation has led to considerable swathes of Aquilaria trees being destroyed. One can’t look at a tree and tell if its trunk is infected with oud, so farmers chop them down in the hope of extracting huge rewards. This has gone on for centuries, leaving the tree endangered in most Southeast Asian countries.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-63904 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3.png" alt="Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 3" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3-600x399.png 600w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Ode-to-Oud-agard-wood-fragrance-perfume-gafencu-3-400x266.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
As the stock of 100-year-old agarwood borders on extinction, several perfumers have established their own plantations. When the tree reaches maturity, it is injected with the artificial bacterium to cultivate oud. Chemically, the experiment is a success, though Ajmal says this fragrance pales in comparison to what his grandfather could gather a few decades ago.
The staggering shortage has prompted some fragrance houses to turn to synthetic, lab-made oud, but it’s not an easy substance to mimic. Ajmal notes, you can smell the “cheap, artificial stuff from 50 feet”. It is, indeed, not the rich, woody, smoky, animalistic scent we have come to treasure.
The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s January 2022 print issue as ❝Ode to Oud❞&nbsp;by&nbsp;Nikita Mishra. Download the&nbsp;<a style="font-weight: bold;" href="https://apps.apple.com/cn/app/gafencu-men/id541555130?l=en" target="_blank" rel="noopener">free app </a>(<a style="font-weight: bold;" href="https://apps.apple.com/cn/app/gafencu-men/id541555130?l=en">iOS</a>, <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gafencu.android" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Android</a>)&nbsp;for digital editions of the magazine.
Also Read:&nbsp;<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/charting-the-rise-of-coffee-culture-around-the-world/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ruling the Roast: Charting the rise of coffee culture around the world</a>

Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu

Here’s what makes  ❛oud❜ more expensive than gold!

The ‘lipstick index’ is particularly important when crises loom. Coined by Estée Lauder’s former chairman, Leonard Lauder, in the early 2000s, the term is an indicator of economic fluctuation, a barometer to gauge consumer confidence at a time of tumult. When spending is constricted, people delay splurging on big-ticket items like housing and electronics, but they will still treat themselves to smaller, affordable luxuries like lipsticks and perfume.&nbsp;
The lipstick index has held water at every downturn, but it could not foresee a global health crisis marked by extended lockdowns and mandatory face coverings when makeup would lose its lustre. If no one can see your face, let alone read your lips, it is pretty pointless to indulge in a pop of colour.&nbsp;Market research group NPD found that beauty sales tanked by more than 25 percent in the first six months of the pandemic, while third-quarter sales dipped further to 31 percent – an unprecedented global crash. But whether you pin it down to human nature or our innate sense of grooming, the beauty industry always finds a way to survive.&nbsp;
<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-61824" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/shop-3398039-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a>
Amid a dynamic shift in priorities and spending patterns, makeup regressed and skincare profited. With its mood-boosting ability to evoke whiffs of calm, safety and sophistication, perfume in particular enjoyed a sharp upswing in demand. According to NPD figures, fragrance sales realised a 45-percent boom in the first quarter of 2021, compared to the previous year. And this most popular of gifting items may only solidify its strong market position over the upcoming holiday season.
Could this interesting indulgence in perfume during the bleakest of years provide a lesson in resilience and recovery for the other beauty players? We delve into a potted history of perfume and emit some surprising fragrance facts.
<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh.png"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-61825" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh.png 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh-200x133.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh-421x280.png 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh-120x80.png 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh-500x333.png 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh-400x266.png 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Shumukh-600x399.png 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a>
Story of Scent 
From the sharp, woody offerings of cigars to the irresistible smell of honeysuckle, scents can transport us to faraway places in time. Though the Romans did not invent perfume, they gave it a fancy name. The word ‘perfume’ is actually rooted in the Latin term ‘per’, meaning ‘through’, ‘fumus’ and ‘smoke’.
A careful blend of romance with a dash of the surreal, the first form of perfume dates back about 4,000 years. The lingering scent you get on your sweater after a night beside a campfire is how the people of Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq) discovered fragrance. Burning resins and wood at religious ceremonies imparted a rich, balmy smell which the ancient civilisation used to embalm the dead.
“The lingering scent on your sweater after a campfire is how the Ancient Mesopotamians discovered fragrance”
Historical evidence dates the use of fragrant incense sticks in Egypt to 3,000 BC, where women were spoiled for scent. They indulged in fragrant baths and soaked themselves in oils for sensual pleasure.&nbsp;By the first century AD, well-heeled Romans were swimming in scent. Frankincense, myrrh and nard were burning lavishly at holy places, festive gatherings and affluent homes in the city. It is said that more than a million kilos of frankincense were imported from Arabia each year for burning, rubbing or sprinkling on the floor or bedspreads. In 54 AD, Roman emperor Nero – who was crazy about roses – spent the equivalent of US$100,000 to drown his guests in its scent at just one party.
<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-61822" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Make-Your-Own-Fragrant-Body-Sprays-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a>
Eau de Cigarette 
Perfume was a marker of status in the 19th century. In the 1920s, a woman could simply spray on the smell of cigarettes instead of smoking them. One of the most influential, historical perfumes ever sold, Molinard’s Habanita, was introduced in perfumed sachets in 1921 and was an instant success. 
As the first women’s fragrance with a strong vetiver vibe, Habanita was received as a decadent token of emancipation for the modern miss who loved mixing the biting smell of tobacco with here angelic façade. Considered a tad brazen at the time, the punchy, leathery offering is still available today (and so wearable).
<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-61828" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/clive-christian-no-1-perfume-imperial-majesty-1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a>
Sniff Number One 
Fine fragrance can cost a fortune. At more than US$2,000 per ounce, Clive Christian’s No.1 Imperial Majesty was named as the Most Expensive Perfume by the 2006 Guinness Book of World Records. It came by chauffeur-driven Bentley encased in a Baccarat crystal bottle ringed by 18K gold and a five-carat diamond. 
The rarer the perfume ingredients, the higher its cost. The price of your favourite luxury fragrance is reflective of the purity of its elements, the expert craftsmanship of the master perfumer, its limited quantity, and the ornaments that adorn the flacon.
<blockquote>
“In the ’20s, a woman could simply spray on the smell of cigarettes without actually smoking them”
</blockquote>
Million-Dollar Nose 
Acclaimed French master perfumer Jean Carles, co-creator of the iconic Miss Dior in 1947, got his prolific nose insured for US$1 million. According to this industry legend, no one is born with an artistic nose; continuous practice and love for the craft makes for a terrific olfactory memory.
<a href="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France.jpg"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-61823" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Rose-farming-France-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a>
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Hard to Swallow 
That riveting oceanic, musky scent trail you get in high-end perfumes like Miss Dior, Rochas’ Femme and Guerlain’s Shalimar, as well as fragrances by Chanel, Givenchy and Gucci, is all down to fragrant whale vomit. Yes, you read that right. Also known as ambergris, this solid, waxy substance actually originates from the intestine of a sperm whale. And, with a price tag of US$1,000-plus per ounce, it’s a perfume ingredient more precious than gold.
Ambergris floats in the ocean once being spewed out by Moby and his friends, and becomes oxidised along the shores. Much like fine wine, the longer the hardening process, the more intoxicating the smell. It contains ambrein, a potent chemical that acts as a fixative, making fragrances last longer. Synthetic chemical alternatives of ambergris are available, but luxury perfumes prefer the real deal. While legal in the United Kingdom and France, its use in perfumery in the United States is banned since sperm whales are an endangered species.
Text: Nikita Mishra

Tag: luxury perfumes

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Aro-Man Therapy: Musk haves and male florals – 10 scents for men to start afresh in spring

Luxury Fragrances: Exotic must-have scents for 2022

Here’s what makes ❛oud❜ more expensive than gold!

Heavenly scent: Unique, exquisite and rare facts about perfumes