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It’s no secret that, pretty much since it was invented by Thomas Mudge, an intrepid English watchmaker, back in 1762, the perpetual calendar has taken pride of place on the fascia of countless treasured timepieces from many of the world’s most well-loved haute horology houses. For the uninitiated, these are mechanisms capable of not only keeping track of the date, day and month, but also of every passing year – including leap years. In the case of most currently available models, their movements can remain untweaked until 2100 at the very least.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-45988" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs.jpg" alt="Perpetual calendar designs" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Perpetual-calendar-designs-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Today, despite the time and effort that go into creating these notoriously complex complications, there is no shortage of innovative new iterations. A particularly admirable example comes courtesy of <a href="https://www.chopard.com/intl/watches">Chopard</a> in the form of its L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl. A homage to the Tian Long dragons of classical Chinese mythology, two such beasts majestically adorn the watch’s beautifully hand-engraved rose gold case – a process said to require some 200 hours of work by one of the brand’s finest artisans. The dial proper then boasts a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, while the perpetual calendar indicators can be found at 3 and 9 o’clock. Fitted with a hand-wound Calibre L.U.C 02.15-L movement as standard, this one-of-a-kind timepiece is a collectors’ item in waiting.
<figure id="attachment_45980" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45980" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45980" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-L.U.C-Perpetual-T-Spirit-of-the-Dragon-and-the-Pearl-by-Chopard.jpg" alt="1 L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl by Chopard" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-L.U.C-Perpetual-T-Spirit-of-the-Dragon-and-the-Pearl-by-Chopard.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-L.U.C-Perpetual-T-Spirit-of-the-Dragon-and-the-Pearl-by-Chopard-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-L.U.C-Perpetual-T-Spirit-of-the-Dragon-and-the-Pearl-by-Chopard-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-L.U.C-Perpetual-T-Spirit-of-the-Dragon-and-the-Pearl-by-Chopard-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1-L.U.C-Perpetual-T-Spirit-of-the-Dragon-and-the-Pearl-by-Chopard-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45980" class="wp-caption-text">L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl by Chopard</figcaption></figure>
Eschewing the outré in favour of the more minimalist, <a href="https://www.montblanc.com/en/collection/watches.html">Montblanc’s</a> Heritage Perpetual Calendar opts for a truly timeless white-rose gold combination. A 100-piece limited-model, it boasts a moon phase movement and a dual-time function, as well as its duly-forefronted perpetual complication. One particularly adept addition is a nifty new safety feature that prevents users from adjusting the chronogram between the hours of 9pm and 3am – a move that ensures its precision mechanism remains tamper-free and its useful life is extended and optimised.
<figure id="attachment_45981" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45981" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45981" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-Montblanc’s-Heritage-Perpetual-Calendar.jpg" alt="2 Montblanc’s Heritage Perpetual Calendar" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-Montblanc’s-Heritage-Perpetual-Calendar.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-Montblanc’s-Heritage-Perpetual-Calendar-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-Montblanc’s-Heritage-Perpetual-Calendar-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-Montblanc’s-Heritage-Perpetual-Calendar-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/2-Montblanc’s-Heritage-Perpetual-Calendar-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45981" class="wp-caption-text">Montblanc’s Heritage Perpetual Calendar</figcaption></figure>
Delightfully clean counters are also on offer from <a href="https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/home">A Lange &amp; Söhne</a> and have been ably enshrined in its blue-and-white Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary”. Beneath its dazzling dial – elegantly embellished with an off-key, off-centre hour-and-minute subdial, a moon phase display and day-date-month indicators – beats the house’s legendary Calibre L082.1, a self-winding movement that’s so complex it comprises 624 individual parts. With a hidden subdial tourbillon only adding to its sophistication, it is daringly debonair yet unobtrusively opulent.
<figure id="attachment_45982" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45982" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45982" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-Lange-1-Tourbillon-Perpetual-Calendar-“25th-Anniversary”-by-A-Lange-and-Sohne.jpg" alt="3 Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary” by A Lange and Sohne" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-Lange-1-Tourbillon-Perpetual-Calendar-“25th-Anniversary”-by-A-Lange-and-Sohne.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-Lange-1-Tourbillon-Perpetual-Calendar-“25th-Anniversary”-by-A-Lange-and-Sohne-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-Lange-1-Tourbillon-Perpetual-Calendar-“25th-Anniversary”-by-A-Lange-and-Sohne-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-Lange-1-Tourbillon-Perpetual-Calendar-“25th-Anniversary”-by-A-Lange-and-Sohne-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/3-Lange-1-Tourbillon-Perpetual-Calendar-“25th-Anniversary”-by-A-Lange-and-Sohne-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45982" class="wp-caption-text">Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary” by A Lange and Sohne</figcaption></figure>
Again sporting an eminently elegant blue-and-white gold livery is the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel, one of the latest offerings from the ever-innovative house of <a href="https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a>. Elegantly showcasing the marque’s renowned artisanal craftsmanship, its hand-guilloché dial is the perfect counterpoint to its fascia-featured perpetual complication and moon phase movements. Polished and poised, this ultra-slim limited-edition model is an apt homage to beautiful yet intricate watchmaking at its very finest.
<figure id="attachment_45983" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45983" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45983" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4-Master-Ultra-Thin-Perpetual-Enamel-by-Jaeger-LeCoultre.jpg" alt="4 Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4-Master-Ultra-Thin-Perpetual-Enamel-by-Jaeger-LeCoultre.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4-Master-Ultra-Thin-Perpetual-Enamel-by-Jaeger-LeCoultre-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4-Master-Ultra-Thin-Perpetual-Enamel-by-Jaeger-LeCoultre-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4-Master-Ultra-Thin-Perpetual-Enamel-by-Jaeger-LeCoultre-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4-Master-Ultra-Thin-Perpetual-Enamel-by-Jaeger-LeCoultre-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45983" class="wp-caption-text">Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre</figcaption></figure>
Acknowledging the current ascendancy of the super-slim look, <a href="https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en4/home.html">Vacheron Constantin’s</a> new Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, weighs in with a positively waif-like depth of 5.7mm, a feat made more miraculous still by the fact its sensationally-slender width houses a perpetual calendar, a moon phase and a minute repeater. Powering all this is the remarkable manual-winding Calibre 1731 movement, a feat of precision engineering comprising 438 individual wafer-thin components. One of the true hero pieces in the watchmaker’s widely-admired Les Cabinotiers range, only two one-off versions – one in white gold and one in pink gold – are ever destined to see the light of day.
<figure id="attachment_45984" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45984" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45984" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Vacheron-Constantins-Minute-Repeater-Perpetual-Calendar.jpg" alt="5 Vacheron Constantin's Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Vacheron-Constantins-Minute-Repeater-Perpetual-Calendar.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Vacheron-Constantins-Minute-Repeater-Perpetual-Calendar-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Vacheron-Constantins-Minute-Repeater-Perpetual-Calendar-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Vacheron-Constantins-Minute-Repeater-Perpetual-Calendar-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Vacheron-Constantins-Minute-Repeater-Perpetual-Calendar-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45984" class="wp-caption-text">Vacheron Constantin&#8217;s Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar</figcaption></figure>
With its eye firmly on the Asian market, for its part, <a href="https://www.blancpain.com/en">Blancpain</a> has opted to release an exclusive boutique version of its rightly-lauded Villeret Quantième Perpétuel. Available in a limited edition of just 88, the white gold case of the original has been upgraded to platinum, while its redesigned dial rejoices in an all-new sunray-brushed deep blue hue. In a particularly deft move, Blancpain has also damage-proofed the perpetual calendar via an integral security system within the self-winding Calibre 5954 movement.
<figure id="attachment_45985" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45985" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45985" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/6-Blancpains-Villeret-Quantième-Perpétuel.jpg" alt="6 Blancpain's Villeret Quantième Perpétuel" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/6-Blancpains-Villeret-Quantième-Perpétuel.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/6-Blancpains-Villeret-Quantième-Perpétuel-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/6-Blancpains-Villeret-Quantième-Perpétuel-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/6-Blancpains-Villeret-Quantième-Perpétuel-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/6-Blancpains-Villeret-Quantième-Perpétuel-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45985" class="wp-caption-text">Blancpain&#8217;s Villeret Quantième Perpétuel</figcaption></figure>
The title of Perpetual Calendar King – were it on offer – though, would surely go to <a href="https://www.patek.com/en/home">Patek Philippe</a>, long considered among the most masterful of marques when it comes to grand complications. As proof incontestable, the latest iteration of its Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 is undoubtedly its most complex to date, a title attested to by its incorporation of 20 individual complications.
<figure id="attachment_45986" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-45986" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-45986" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/7-Grandmaster-Chime-Ref.6300G-010-by-Patek-Philippe.jpg" alt="7 Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 by Patek Philippe" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/7-Grandmaster-Chime-Ref.6300G-010-by-Patek-Philippe.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/7-Grandmaster-Chime-Ref.6300G-010-by-Patek-Philippe-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/7-Grandmaster-Chime-Ref.6300G-010-by-Patek-Philippe-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/7-Grandmaster-Chime-Ref.6300G-010-by-Patek-Philippe-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/7-Grandmaster-Chime-Ref.6300G-010-by-Patek-Philippe-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-45986" class="wp-caption-text">Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 by Patek Philippe</figcaption></figure>
With a touch of the avant-garde, its entire case can be rotated around its lug connection points, with both fascia deployed to display its intricate inner workings – which, in addition to the perpetual complication, include five different chiming modes, a second time zone display with day / night indicator and a moon phase. In a knowing nod to the kind of wealthy, debonair gentlemen likely to sport such a horological high-water mark, each watch comes boxed with complimentary complementing cufflinks boasting the same blue opaline-on-white gold motif as this truly timeless timepiece.
Text: Tenzing Thondup

Perpetual Bliss: A round-up of the latest perpetual calendar watches

Perpetual calendars have long been a fixture in the world of haute horology. In fact, their very longevity has led to many of the more jaded collectors eschewing them in favour of something a little more ostentatious or outré. This is only to be regretted. As any true lover of precision time pieces will tell you, the perpetual calendar is among the finest distillations of the watchmaker’s art.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36305 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye.jpg" alt="Perpetual Calendar watches that caught our eye" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Perpetual-Calendar-watches-that-caught-our-eye-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Unlike annual calendar complications, the perpetual’s claim to fame is that, as well as expertly keeping track of the day, date and month, it also factors in leap years as well. In the case of some of the very finest models, they may not need to be adjusted for centuries.
Given its key role in the mechanism’s evolution – the brand was the first to miniaturise the movement to fit a wristwatch – it is only fitting that <a href="https://www.patek.com/en/home">Patek Philippe</a> maintains an admirable range of perpetual calendar timepieces. Foremost among these is the 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Salmon Dial, an all-new platinum-crafted iteration of its benchmark 5270 design.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36312 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial.jpg" alt="Patek Philippe 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Salmon Dial" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Patek-Philippe-5270P-Perpetual-Calendar-Chronograph-with-Salmon-Dial-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
While the watch’s salmon pink hue evokes a certain sepia-toned nostalgia, its case conceals a complication of cutting-edge complexity. As well as the perpetual calendar, it comes with an additional six patented chronograph innovations, including a tachymeter scale and a 30-minute counter.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36310 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IWC-Portugieser-Perpetual-Calendar-Edition-‘150-Years’.jpg" alt="IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition ‘150 Years’" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IWC-Portugieser-Perpetual-Calendar-Edition-‘150-Years’.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IWC-Portugieser-Perpetual-Calendar-Edition-‘150-Years’-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IWC-Portugieser-Perpetual-Calendar-Edition-‘150-Years’-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IWC-Portugieser-Perpetual-Calendar-Edition-‘150-Years’-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IWC-Portugieser-Perpetual-Calendar-Edition-‘150-Years’-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Again giving its own heritage a knowing nod, <a href="https://www.iwc.com/en/home.html">IWC’s </a>new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition ‘150 Years’ is a classic Portugieser watch crafted in the spirit of the brand’s Jubilee collection. Outfitted with an in-house calibre 52615 movement, boasting a seven-day power reserve, this particular perpetual calendar is said to require no adjustment until 2010. Clearly one to bequeath.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36308 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Chopard-L.U.C-All-in-One.jpg" alt="Chopard L.U.C All-in-One" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Chopard-L.U.C-All-in-One.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Chopard-L.U.C-All-in-One-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Chopard-L.U.C-All-in-One-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Chopard-L.U.C-All-in-One-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Chopard-L.U.C-All-in-One-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Not to be outdone, <a href="https://www.chopard.com/intl/">Chopard’s </a>offering is the L.U.C All-in-One, a watch with truly grand complications that features 14 mesmerising function, including a perpetual calendar sub-dial set in the upper right corner of its stylish guilloché dial. With the option of rose gold with a nickel face or platinum with a grey-blue face, the watch comes in a strictly limited edition of 10.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36307 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Breguet-Marine-Équation-Marchante-5887.jpg" alt="Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Breguet-Marine-Équation-Marchante-5887.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Breguet-Marine-Équation-Marchante-5887-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Breguet-Marine-Équation-Marchante-5887-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Breguet-Marine-Équation-Marchante-5887-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Breguet-Marine-Équation-Marchante-5887-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Another hand guilloché design that just cannot be overlooked is <a href="https://www.breguet.com/en">Breguet’s </a>Marine Équation Marchante 5887. Its integral perpetual calendar mechanism is here complemented by a running equation of time and a 60-second tourbillon, all powered by a self-winding calibre 581DPE movement. Staying true to the collection’s overall maritime motif, the date hand features an anchored tip, while its hour marker sits atop a ‘ship wheel’ setting.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36306 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst.jpg" alt="A. Lange &amp; Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A.-Lange-Söhne-1815-Rattrapante-Perpetual-Calendar-Handwerkskunst-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
For those hankering for something a little more blue, <a href="https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/?&amp;mid=2300gxu28911&amp;mkwid=sgkHxYhNo_dc&amp;pcrid=174706415654&amp;kword=a%20lange%20and%20sohne&amp;match=p&amp;plid=&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwrqnYBRB-EiwAthnBFvEqejbsa_9RJEqK8kMyPqcThiaMrzwXEDqH5NMcduTXw9LT5xjtpBoCxrkQAvD_BwE">A. Lange &amp; Söhne</a> recently unveiled the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, complete with a blue-enamelled white gold dial. The face comprises four recessed sub dials – a perpetual calendar (accurate until 2100), a day-date, a moon phase indicator and a split-second chronograph – all set against a series which also of painstakingly0engraved star accents.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36309 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition.jpg" alt="Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Glashütte-Original-Senator-Excellence-Perpetual-Calendar-Limited-Edition-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
For those looking for a more unusual take on the classic perpetual, <a href="https://www.glashuette-original.com/homepage">Glashütte Original’s</a> Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition certainly merits a degree of perusal. Featuring a skeletonised metal face encircled by matte grey edging, it’s a near-genius blend of the complex and the minimalist and only available in a 100-piece limited edition.
Containing with the more contemporary takes on this venerable innovation, <a href="https://www.mbandf.com/en">MB&amp;F’s</a> Legacy Machine Perpetual Ti has, as you might expect from such a notoriously avantgarde marque, opted for an ultra-modern approach. The resulting limited-edition model sports a shimmering blue-green dial in a titanium case, beautifully counterpointed by a remarkable open-face design. The perpetual calendar and host of other complications come judiciously set above a Legacy Machine signature floating balance, hovering tantalisingly below a domed glass case.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-36311 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/MBF’s-Legacy-Machine-Perpetual-Ti.jpg" alt="MB&amp;F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual Ti" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/MBF’s-Legacy-Machine-Perpetual-Ti.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/MBF’s-Legacy-Machine-Perpetual-Ti-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/MBF’s-Legacy-Machine-Perpetual-Ti-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/MBF’s-Legacy-Machine-Perpetual-Ti-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/MBF’s-Legacy-Machine-Perpetual-Ti-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
The floating balance design represents a beguiling evolution of the perpetual calendar, with an extended lever running across the complication, via the central axis, functioning as a central control. By default, the calendar assumes each month has 31 days, leaving it to the lever-activated mechanism to automatically skip ahead when only 30 or 28 are actually on offer.
Although there are clearly a number of brands keen to celebrate the past stylings of the perpetual calendar, it could be that the LM Perpetual Ti offers the best glimpse of its likely future. With haute horology never one to hasten evolution, it could be that any true transformation could take another 250 years. Those lacking a perpetual calendar function should perhaps set their watches accordingly.
Text: Tenzing Thondup

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