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While Hong Kong takes pride – justifiably – in its cosmopolitan nature when it comes to serving world cuisine, there has been a bit of a lamentable oversight so far when it came to finding authentic Peruvian cuisine in the city. But who better to rectify this than Virgilio Martinez Véliz, award-winning Peruvian chef whose restaurant Central in his native country has already bagged the coveted 6th best restaurant at the World&#8217;s 50 Best Restaurant Awards?
<figure id="attachment_39967" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-39967" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-39967" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ichu-Perus-interiors.jpg" alt="Ichu Peru" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ichu-Perus-interiors.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ichu-Perus-interiors-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ichu-Perus-interiors-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ichu-Perus-interiors-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ichu-Perus-interiors-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-39967" class="wp-caption-text">Ichu Peru&#8217;s interiors</figcaption></figure>
The iconic chef, however, has had set his sights on Hong Kong for sometime now. He had already collaborated on a four-hands dinner at Amber with Landmark Mandarin Oriental&#8217;s Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus. But it is with Ichu Peru – named after a local Peruvian plant – that he brings the heart and soul of Peru right in the middle of Hong Kong, at H Queens.
“Our intention is to replicate the atmosphere of Lima’s local cevicherias,” explains Martinez. “We want to honour Peru’s no-fuss dining culture where the atmosphere is relaxed, the dishes are shared and the recipes highlight fresh ingredients and traditional flavours.”
<figure id="attachment_39968" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-39968" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-39968" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru.jpg" alt="Ichu Peru" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Palta-Quemada-at-Ichu-Peru-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-39968" class="wp-caption-text">Palta Quemada at Ichu Peru</figcaption></figure>
In keeping with Martinez&#8217;s philosophy, the decor of Ichu Peru is fuss-free and comfortable, with Peruvian murals and sculptures lending an air of authenticity to the interiors. However, in the evenings, it&#8217;s a tad too dimly lit, making it rather difficult to read the menu. Once your eyes have adjusted though, the menu itself is akin to a gold mine, waiting for its hidden gems to be explored. Chef Martinez’s sophisticated knowledge of Peruvian cuisine is on full display, right from such appetizers as the Pargo al Rocoto featuring thinly-sliced snapper with celeriac, avocado and aji rocoto, and Ceviche Clásico, a punchy dish comprising snapper, choclo, red onion and sweet potato.
<figure id="attachment_39969" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-39969" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-39969" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves.jpg" alt="Ichu Peru" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Pez-Amazonia-baked-sea-bass-in-banana-leaves-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-39969" class="wp-caption-text">Pez Amazonia, baked sea bass in banana leaves</figcaption></figure>
However, it is Ichu Peru&#8217;s signature starter – the Palta Quemada – a deceptively&nbsp; simple combination of charred avocado, aji limo, tomato and cassava, that reveals Chef Martinez’s complex culinary skills. Equally light and flavourful, it melts in the mouth with a smoky softness, leaving you in eager anticipation of the next spoonful.
<figure id="attachment_39971" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-39971" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-39971" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect.jpg" alt="Ichu Peru" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-Milagro-sweet-and-Instagram-perfect-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-39971" class="wp-caption-text">El Milagro, sweet and Instagram-perfect!</figcaption></figure>
Moving on to the mains, one of the must-try dishes would be the inimitable Pez Amazonia – a baked sea bass infused with the smoky aroma of banana leaves and served with tomato, red onion, corn, coriander and lime juice. The freshness of the fish is perfectly complemented with the crunchiness of the corn, and is tied together in harmony with a touch of lime – a dish that, for a change, justifies that oft-misused phrase &#8216;healthy and hearty&#8217;!
<figure id="attachment_39970" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-39970" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-39970" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing.jpg" alt="Ichu Peru" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Vida-tangy-and-refreshing-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-39970" class="wp-caption-text">Vida, tangy and refreshing</figcaption></figure>
The cocktails at Ichu Peru, too, for their part, evoke traditional Peruvian flavours and cater to a wide range of palates – from the refreshingly tangy Vida for those looking for some extra &#8216;bite&#8217; to the frothy and sweet El Milagro that&#8217;s almost like a liquid dessert!
Well, with Hongkongers being famously fickle in their culinary choices, Ichu Peru&#8217;s wide range of food and drinks is a place as good as any to start your tryst with Peru.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Start your tryst with Peruvian cuisine at Ichu Peru

<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="ngg-singlepic ngg-none" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/gallery/into-the-inca-empire-travel-sep-01-09-2017/Over_Machu_Picchu_eff2.jpg" alt="Over_Machu_Picchu_eff2" width="997" height="752">
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Discover Machu Picchu in all its majesty, but don’t miss the other wonders of the Peruvian Andes
Placid lakes, glacial peaks and mountain ranges prelude the landing into the capital of America’s greatest civilisation – the Inca Empire. If you can manage to keep your eyes open, you’ll find yourself soaring above a Peruvian paradise. This view signals an end to the grueling 30-hour journey from Hong Kong to Cusco, but it’s just the start of a tremendous adventure.
Spelled Cuzco in Spanish and Qusqu in Quechuan – the local language – the city sits 3,400m above sea level. While it might seem anticlimactic, the first order of business upon touching down in Cusco is to get plenty of rest. It takes a couple of days to acclimatise to the environment, and altitude sickness often comes with the territory. You won’t mind holing up at the Belmond Hotel Monasterio, a stunning 16th-century structure which once served as a monastery and national monument. For the ultimate in luxury and Peruvian charm, there’s no better choice.
Still, even after resting you may feel a bit ill while walking up and down the streets of Cusco, whose steep steps form a maze leading to the main square of Plaza de Armas. Do as the locals say: drink a lot of water and try to avoid alcohol and meat, especially when preparing for a trek.
Another traditional remedy is mate de coca – a herbal infusion made from raw coca plant leaves, which are native to the region. Commonly used in the Andean highlands, the tea is consumed as a stimulant to improve blood flow and oxygen uptake at high altitudes. While completely organic and used in countries like Argentina, Bolivia, Colombia and Peru, the tea is illegal in the United States because it contains alkaloids used to make cocaine.

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A good way to explore the Inca ruins while acclimatising is to go lower into the Sacred Valley. Pisac – a small town 35km from Cusco – is a great option on Sundays when it holds its famous market.
You can shop at the market for local Peruvian fruit and handmade crafts. Many vendors will tell you their ponchos or blankets are made of alpaca wool, but walk around and inspect prices and quality before making a final decision. Don’t miss the chance to try a local snack: the choclo is a large-kernel variety of field corn from the Andes, and you can take it boiled, with cheese or with salt.
Some stalls around the market are fronted with signs advertising shaman-led “San Pedro experiences”. If you’ve heard of ayahuasca – the spiritual medicine and hallucinogenic used in indigenous Amazonian ceremonies – then the Andean counterpart is a cactus called San Pedro (Saint Peter), which can be made into mescaline.
A quick taxi ride will take you to the impressive Inca relics above the town, or you can opt to hike 7km to the architectural park. Make sure to save energy for the labyrinth of relics within, though.
You’ll need a US$40 boleto turístico (ticket) to get in, which covers 10 days and all the major must-sees in and around Cusco. The area is characterised by its soaring agricultural terraces, some of which are still used to this day.
In the main park, a trail near the river is flanked by cliffs and lined with cave-like tombs – the Incas’ vertical cemetery. Turn left where the trail forks by a bridge and go uphill to the majestic Temple of the Sun. The Incas’ most important god was the solar deity Inti, which explains why the Peruvian currency is named sol after the word for sun. From there another trail leads back down to the town centre.
Aside from Pisac, make full use of your boleto turístico and explore ruins like Ollantaytambo (an imposing Inca military post in the Sacred Valley) and the Saqsayhuaman complex in Cusco (including Q’enqo, Puka-Pukara and Tambomachay). Pay a visit to Moray, which is famous for its Salineras de Maras, a picturesque system of salt flats carved out of the mountainside.
And then there’s Machu Picchu. If you want the full experience, start from the Inca Trail. There are several treks and tours available, with most hikes ranging from two to eight days. You’ll need to book this months in advance, especially if you plan to go during the high season.
Several luxury tour operators offer all-inclusive trips to Machu Picchu. They come with porters, pack mules, sunset happy hours, chefs expertly trained in Peruvian cuisine and every other amenity you can possibly think of while journeying through the mountains. Alpaca Expeditions and Enigma Adventure are Gafencu’s top choices for tour operators.
Another route, the Salkantay Trail, is better suited to intermediate hikers who want to take in glacial landscapes at altitudes of up to 5,200m. The Lares Valley Trek is less hardcore, but still challenging. It follows the weavers’ and farmers’ paths through villages and rivers. You’ll see a lot of llamas and alpacas along the way, but take care not to step on the presents they’ve left behind.

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The most luxurious – and laidback – way of getting in and out of Machu Picchu, though, is via Perurail’s high-end train service. The Vistadome and Expedition trains are popular for their panoramic views of the breathtaking scenery. Alternatively, the plush Belmond Hiram Bingham often features live bands which play local and international tunes.
Tourists will disembark at Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu. For a spot of rest and pampering, check into the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. Situated in the middle of a natural oasis, the hotel boasts a luxurious spa and 12 acres of land frequented by more than 200 bird species.
After regaining your strength, wake up early to catch the sunrise at Machu Picchu (or come at sunset if you want to avoid the crowds). The queue for the bus tends to snake around the corner even in the 4am darkness. Get your bus tickets ahead of time, or you may never make it up there. And don’t forget your passport – they check.
As soon as you get there, secure a strategic spot for the moment when the sun breaks through the mist. It may be raining, you might not have showered for days and you’re probably sleep deprived, but all that slips away as you stand above the living, breathing rainforest where the Incas built their sublime citadel in the 15th century to get closer to the gods.
Legend has it that when the Spanish arrived, the Incas razed all the roads leading to Machu Picchu so the conquerors wouldn’t find it. It was hidden from the outside world until 1911, when American archaeologist Hiram Bingham stumbled upon the site while searching for the famous “lost” Inca cities.
If you still have energy to climb, you can make for Huayna Picchu, the “young peak” that features in all the famous photos of Machu Picchu. It’s a couple of hours up and down, unless you want to take the longer loop. From the top, you can look down on the divine site as if you were a condor gliding over it.
Where to next? The onward journey can take you to Lima, Peru’s gastronomic paradise, or to the colonial-era capital of Arequipa, flanked by three imposing volcanoes. If you haven’t had enough adventure yet, head to the picture-perfect Rainbow Mountain or Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian border. You might have come thinking you’d tick something off your bucket list – little did you know you’d be adding 10 more by the end of your stay.
Text: Julienne C. Raboca

Into the Inca Empire

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Start your tryst with Peruvian cuisine at Ichu Peru

Into the Inca Empire