There’s an exciting new entry into the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants guide that has gained much buzz since its opening a year ago. Wing restaurant, helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Vicky Cheng of acclaimed French-Chinese restaurant VEA, is nestled on the 29th floor of The Wellington in Sheung Wan, just a floor below its acclaimed sister eatery VEA.

Having been trained in French techniques, Wing is a step outside of Cheng’s comfort zone, prompted by his journey of rediscovering his Chinese roots. Here, the menu is described as seasonal dining. By sourcing only the freshest and seasonal ingredients, the Hong Kong-born chef offers his patrons a rotation of the best ingredients for each season of the year. “This is my take on Chinese cuisine”, Cheng tells Gafencu. “We do what I like to call ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’. By respecting centuries of traditions and flavour combinations, but at the same time adding our own element to the dishes, we are able to create flavours of our own, and ultimately a cuisine of our own”.

“We do ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’…adding our own element to the dishes to create flavours of our own”

Without delay, we began with a line up of cold appetisers. The Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp was a deliciously tender and creamy bite with a gentle hint of spice, courtesy of the generous Yunnan chili garnished atop, while the Drunken South African Abalone was a sweeter follow up to contrast. Perfectly marinated with two different types of Chinese wine, the balance of sweet and savoury was a delight.

To its side, was the French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat. Sprinkled with chicken skin crisps, this gave the dish a subtle yet noticeable dimension in texture and taste. Last in line from the appetisers was the Chili Shirako with Century Egg. Delighting with a custard-like texture and taste that paired perfectly well with the mild flavours of the soft-boiled century egg. The dish was brought together with a tantalising note thanks to the restaurant’s house-made Sichuan chilli sauce.

Serving as a brief interim while we waited in anticipation for the second course was the Shanlinsi Oolong tea. Subtle with a fruity aftertaste, our palates were refreshed as we steadied ourselves for the Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables. Complementing the fatty, natural sweetness of the meat was a liberal bed of house-preserved vegetables and fresh scallions – giving the fish a unique aroma.

Next to arrive was the Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar. Dry-aged for about three days, then glazed with sugar cane juice before finally smoked with dried sugar cane pulp, the result of this elaborate preparation is a decadently sweet and incredibly crispy skinned bird with juicy, tender meat that slid right off the bone.

Not long after had we finished off the game on our plates did the next dish arrive, the Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice. The chef used two-head fish maw for the dish, which, to put in perspective, is thicker and more chewy than typical fish maw. Rich umami flavours exude throughout each component of the dish, from the fish maw that was braised in house-made abalone sauce to the morel mushroom rice that was elevated by the hint of earthy notes. When put together in a single bite, a seamless balance of texture and flavours are married in perfect harmony.

To end on a refreshing note, the dessert arrived in the form of an Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet. We took our time savouring this sweet ending for as long as it lasted. The snow gum, infused with Osmanthus tea, resembled the unique texture of a bird’s nest, but left a satisfying swirl of floral notes on our palates. The coconut sorbet, on the other hand, added a creamy body to the dessert that was both sweet and refreshing. If there was anything we could have added, it would have been a second serving.

Wing. 29/F The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2711 0063. wingrestaurant.hk

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)