It’s official. Hong Kong is now home to Asia’s largest population of French expats, having overtaken Shanghai, that long-time Gallic stronghold. It’s quite an achievement given that Hong Kong was once a British colony. As recently as 2016, UK-ers were still the city’s largest Western cohort. But now, that particular claim to fame has been wrested from them by the French.

In fact, the surge in républicain residents is nothing short of spectacular. Shedding a little light on this influx, French Consul General Eric Berti says: “Over the last decade, we have seen the number of French expats double in size. The average year-on-year growth is around five percent and we even had one year where our numbers jumped by more than 10 percent.”

While there’s no denying that this represents a marked increase, France and Hong Kong have enjoyed a discreet dalliance since before the First Opium War. But why are so many French citizens making the 9,800-km trip east to HK today? Well, work, as you might expect, is quite an influential factor.

According to the French Chamber of Commerce, there are more than 800 French companies active in Hong Kong. Some 60 percent are retail-related, most likely using the city as a springboard into the Mainland market. A further 25 percent are involved in finance and insurance – again, not a surprise, given the country’s penchant for all things mathematical.

Perhaps the largest – and most welcome – by-product of this mass migration has been the stratospheric rise of French gastronomy in Hong Kong. In addition to three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and three two-starred Gallic eateries – Amber, Caprice and Pierre, there’s also a raft of up-and-coming restaurants stepping into the spotlight.

France’s charm offensive is not just on the food front. Hong Kong’s social calendar is now replete French cultural events, including Le French May, the annual month-long showcase of French films, art and food.

The efficacy of this charm offensive is clear, but what exactly is the appeal of this faraway quasi-city-state for so many French expats?

For Consul General Berti, it’s just the latest chapter in a 170-plus-year love story. Expanding on his theme, he says: “Hong Kong has fascinated our people – especially our young – for many years. Currently, more than 60 percent of the French nationals living here are working professionals aged 35 or less. They are drawn by the city’s vibrancy, friendliness and high quality of life. It’s a city where they feel they can truly succeed.”

Berti’s sentiments certainly seemed to resonate with Ben, a French banker who first came to Hong Kong in 2011. He explains: “As I’d always been attracted to Asian culture, when France was hit by the global monetary crisis, moving to a thriving financial hub like Hong Kong seemed a no-brainer.”

Given that the wider world is finally recovering from the global financial tsunami of 2008, which brought Ben and countless others to Hong Kong’s shores, does this mean that the years of mass French immigration are now coming to the end?

Taking a philosophical view of such a notion, Berti says: “There’s a lot of excitement in France now with the rise of Macron [the newly-elected president]. There’s a big push to be a part of the reform that seems to be on the horizon. So perhaps it will attract some to return home…”

Ben, however, sees it as a more distant prospect, saying: “Even if the new reforms have a positive impact, it’s hard to predict the long-term result. I’d rather wait and see before considering a move back.”

Adrian, one of the more recent French expats to arrive in Hong Kong, is of a similar mindset, saying: “Even with the new president, France is not as competitive, in business terms, as many other countries. While I enjoyed living in France, I prefer to be in a more dynamic working environment.”

Given the clear alignment between France and Hong Kong, could there one day be a more formal arrangement? With the UK exiting the EU, is there a Hong-Kong-shaped gap there waiting to be filled? Well, probably not. There does, however, seem every certainty that the unlikely pairing of this far-away Asian city and its European soulmate is only set to continue. As to the future, well – as they say in downtown Sai Ying Pun – qui sait?

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: AFP, Le French May