Good as Gold: From red to lime to ‘magic’, a watch hewn from a golden hue radiates success 

By Neil Dolby
Aug 21, 2024

Luxurious gold watches undoubtedly carry an air of distinction and grace. Many believe these golden masterpieces of craftsmanship will somehow bring success and good luck, such is the distinctiveness of their charming colours. Another essential quality is their timelessness; these are some of the most elegant timepieces in the high-end market, and no fluctuations in the vagaries of fashion can diminish their intrinsic appeal. Indeed, their allure elevates any style of attire while projecting power.


The beautiful contrasting effect of colour tones that gold can inspire is surely what drove Vacheron Constantin to render four pink-gold models – chronograph, dual time, date in case diameters of 41mm and 35mm – from its Overseas Collection with a new green dial, a colour never used in the range before. The sheer intensity of this luscious, lacquered deep-green dial featuring a sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished flange magnifies the splendour of its pink-gold case. This contrast was specifically designed to bring a new signature aesthetic to the brand’s sporty-chic watches. The new dial colour also enhances the legibility of the Super-LumiNova-treated pink-gold hour markers and hands.


The four models utilise self-winding calibres with a 22-carat pink-gold oscillating weight featuring the collection’s emblematic compass rose. The 18-carat 5N pink-gold case matches wonderfully with the integrated pink-gold bracelet whose polished and satin-brushed links, secured by a pink-gold triple-blade quick-release folding clasp with push-pieces, subtly reveal the Maltese cross.


Chopard emphasises that its recent addition of the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in 18-carat rose gold is crafted from an ethically-sourced alloy – indeed all the brand’s models since July 2018 have taken the ethical-gold route, smelted at its own precious metals foundry.


The rose gold extends to the 44mm case that is water resistant to 100 metres, 8mm crown engraved with the compass rose, bezel with eight screws set at a tangent, and tapered in-house bracelet of wide links with satin-brushed sides, polished central cap, triple folding clasp and safety pushers. These myriad gold features offer a pleasant contrast to the bernina grey of a dial achieved by galvanic treatment – a colour palette evoking the Alpine landscape. Powered by the Chopard 03.05-C movement, the watch excites with its technical prowess of a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock whose hand makes semi-instantaneous jumps and an aperture-type date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock that also jumps semi-instantaneously.


Swiss master Gerald Charles has just released the Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon featuring a hand-hammered dial of pure uncoated 18-carat rose gold. It takes years of experience and fine craftsmanship to create these types of dials, and the hours of endeavour required results in only two per month emerging from the workshop.


Limited to just 50 pieces, each model is a unique statement with its face offering a homogenous feel and fine texture as well as durability and resistance. Interesting technical accomplishments include a blue bezel in grade 5 titanium with specialised coating derived from the aeronautical industry, and a 60-seconds flying tourbillon with a tourbillon cage, also in titanium, designed by Octavio Garcia and representing the Gerald Charles logo. The tourbillon also has a surgical-grade stainless steel case and a gold tourbillon bridge, all combining to create surreal three dimensional contrasts.


Hublot presents two new watches in its Square Bang Unico collection which utilise the properties of its scratch-resistant 18-carat gold known as Magic Gold.


Retaining the signature geometry of the iconic modern series, both the Square Bang Unico Magic Gold and Square Bang Unico Ceramic Magic Gold are crafted from a solid block, with the signature large bezel with six H-shaped screws forming a stunning statement piece. ‘Magic gold’, which has been certified as 18-carat gold, has extraordinary hardness and scratch-resistance qualities above standard gold – meaning these watches offer both durability and the lustre of the precious metal.


This year Rolex harnesses the luxurious qualities of gold via two new 18-carat additions to its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller series.


Utilising the signature Calibre 9002 movement, a mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding properties via a perpetual rotor, these world-traveller watches feature a Jubilee bracelet in a precious metal for the first time – either the brand’s Everose gold paired with a slate dial or yellow gold juxtaposed with a white dial. Distinguished by polished centre links, satin-finished outer links with polished edges and ceramic inserts, the bracelet’s Easylink comfort extension link allows the option of an extra 5mm in length. The gold caseback, which is hermetically screwed down to achieve waterproofing to 100 metres, is edged with fine fluting. The precious metal also graces the hour markers, hands and bezel.


Last year Montblanc launched two versions of the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva boasting an innovative bezel-activated chronograph.


Just 28 watches were manufactured with an 18-carat lime-gold bezel – compared to 100 pieces in white gold. A click of the unidirectional fluted bezel activates the chronograph, which stops with a second click, and is reactivated by a third push. The crown is fluted in lime gold and sports the Montblanc emblem in relief, and the dark green dial has beige luminescent Arabic numerals and indexes coated in gold.


Another standout gold watch duo can be found at Audemars Piguet. The new 34mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding timepieces reveal ‘Crystal Sand’ finished dials in 18-carat white or yellow gold that sublimely set off the frosted finish of the hammered gold case and bracelet with folding clasp. In a distinctive touch of contrast, the yellow-gold version has white-gold applied hour markers and hands. For each, the brand signature is applied on the dial in the same gold tone as the decorations.


Part of the Villeret collection, Blancpain’s Quantième Perpétuel Phases de Lune is resplendent in a 40.3mm red-gold case. Powered by the Calibre 5954.4 automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve, the moon-phase complication displayed on the opaline dial accurately tracks the lunar cycles of the month, while the perpetual calendar indicates the correct date for a century without manual intervention.


Housed in a case made of 18-carat rose gold, the Ocean Date Moon Phase Automatic 42mmLimited Edition by Harry Winston ramps up high-jewellery bling with scores of glistening baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds totalling more than 38 carats. Buttressed by its gold base, the glittering dial is further highlighted by a moon-phase disc coated with blue varnish and a yellow-gold moon cabochon crafted by hand.