The month of March is inevitably ring-fenced and red-circled on the wall-planners of watch lovers the world over. This, of course, is because within its 31-day span, some six of them are given over to Baselworld, the high point of the haute horology year and the expo par excellence for keen chronometer collectors.

This year, the event ran from 21 to 26 March, with the 520 brands on show attracting 81,200 attendees. While the available space does not stretch to showcasing all the debutante designs that merit a mention, the claim to greater attention of seven of them in particular just cannot be disputed.

Female watch fans were in for a particular treat with MB&F opting to unveil its first-ever ladies’ timepiece – the Legacy Machine FlyingT – at the event. With its accentuated crystal dome, dazzlingly diamond-studded bezel and fascia, and central flying tourbillon, this was one new arrival that was all but impossible to miss. Quirky yet undeniably chic, it’s a design that’s every bit as eye-catching as any of the marque’s more outré chap-friendly chronometers.

For those in search of something a tad subtler, Chanel’s limited-edition Boy∙friend Skeleton Black Edition is an ode to minimalism, with its rectangular black ceramic case – devoid of any embellishments – the perfect foil for its skeletonised dial. Here the proprietary manually-winding Calibre 3 movement is clearly visible, as are the overlapping hour-and-minute dial and small seconds subdial. It’s actually something of a shame that only 55 such watches are ever to see the light of day.

Gentlemen horological connoisseurs, meanwhile, were treated to a veritable smorgasbord of timepiece treasures, including Bulgari’s groundbreaking Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. Rightly securing the marque its fifth world record, this ultra-slim timepiece’s Calibre BVL 318 movement clocks in at just 3.3mm, with the watch’s overall thickness being merely 6.9mm. Fitted with a GMT function – allowing the watch to display two separate time zones – this would be a welcome addition to the armoury of any non-tardy traveller.

A more athletic approach was on offer from Rolex in the form of its all-new upsized 42mm Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. From the off, its white gold bezel (complete with a striking matte black Cerachrom insert) and all-black dial make it a real attention-grabber. Underneath beats a Calibre 3235 movement, the most cutting-edge time-and-date generator this most eminent of watchmakers has ever produced. Sturdy yet sophisticated, this is truly a chronogram for the sophisticated seafarer.

Eschewing seaborne soirées for airborne adventure is Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer with a new iteration of its long-loved Autavia – (aut)o and (avia)tion – collection. Dubbed the Autavia Isograph, its bi-directional 60-minute bezel, broad hands and oversized Arabic numeral hour markers are all in true cockpit character. For the curious, the Isograph nomenclature is a knowing nod to the unique carbon composite that resides within its Calibre 5 movement –  a fittingly innovative touch for a watch that has already won fans the world over.

Renowned haute horology label Patek Philippe also revealed a new aviation-inspired design at the event – the Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P. Its robust, four-crown, pilot-style platinum case stylishly houses the brand’s latest high-precision movement, a slim 6.6mm Calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS, while its all-black dial is home to a 24-hour alarm, a digital alarm display, a second time zone display and a day-night indicator. As intricate as it is innovative, this limited-edition creation is all but guaranteed to be a real collectors’ item.

A true statement timepiece, though, came courtesy of Chopard in the beguiling form of its L.U.C Flying T Twin. Set to astound in aesthetic terms alone, its painstakingly hand-guilloché dial is fetchingly patterned with the selfsame honeycomb motif that company founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard selected as the maison’s first logo, making this an apt showcase for the brand’s renowned artisanal handcraftsmanship.

Beyond its alluring looks, however, the virtuoso technical skills on show here also merit a special mention. From its ultra-sleek 3.3mm Calibre 96.24-L movement to its flying tourbillon – a first for Chopard – this is haute horology at the very highest end. If that weren’t enough, it is also crafted using only ethically-sourced Fairmined gold for its case, hands and hour markers. By fusing time-honoured techniques with contemporary flair, and mechanical know-how with visually stunning iconography, it stands as a resounding celebration for the watchmaking craft and more than justifies any Baselworld jolly in its own right.

Text: Tenzing Thondup