It’s no secret that, by and large, the world of haute horology is inherently conservative, strictly adhering to watchmaking traditions laid down generations ago. In some cases, this has even seen classic complications – step forward the tourbillon – prized long after they have become somewhat surplus to requirements. There is, however, one aspect of watchmaking that continues to evolve, one driven by both changing tastes and technology – the actual dimensions of a desirable timepiece.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the ever-dynamic wristwatch sector. When first introduced post-WWI for mass public consumption, the average men’s dial ranged from 28mm to 32mm in diameter. By the ’90s, 38mm was the norm. Today, 42mm is pretty much the standard, with only those above 45mm seen as oversized watches. While historically more petite, ladies’ watches have undergone a similar expansion and, for those keen to pick a premium plus-size model, thankfully, there are several prime specimens available.

With its eye firmly on distinctly feminine design, Bulgari has deftly fused the worlds of high-end jewellery and luxury watchmaking in the Serpenti Tubogas. Shaped to recall the coils of the eponymous creature that inspired it, its dominant 35mm curved-steel dial sits atop the serpent’s head – replete with a dazzling diamond-studded bezel and fascia – while its single-spiral steel-and-rose gold body bracelet extends down to wrap around the forearm.

Similarly taking the small-watch-expanded-setting approach is Cartier, whose all-new extra-large Panthère de Cartier Manchette model is equal parts jewellery cuff and chronometer. While the quartz movement is housed in a delicate 22mm x 19mm rose gold case, the watch itself is surrounded by a far chunkier 41mm rose gold-black lacquer linked bracelet. Available in a strictly limited edition of 50, it’s the perfect wrist adornment for any fashionable foray.

For discerning gentlemen collectors, meanwhile, there’s a veritable treasure trove of attention-seizing oversized watches on offer. First up is Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Silver, the Swiss marque’s inaugural silver-cased chronogram. Boasting a 45mm burnished silver dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, this pilot watch’s metal sheet-patterned fascia and rugged look is a knowing homage to the aviation aesthetics of a bygone age.

Another outré, outsized pilot’s watch comes courtesy of IWC, with its limited-edition 46mm Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire revealing a keen understanding of just what today’s aviators actually require. Fitted with an in-house Calibre 52615 movement, a perpetual calendar and a double moon display – allowing for accurate lunar positioning in both the northern and southern hemispheres – this eye-catching olive-bronze creation is a more-than-fitting tribute to the WWII British fighter plane that inspired it.

Eschewing high-altitude adventure in favour of deep-sea discovery, though, is Panerai with its Submersible Mike Horn Edition – 47mm. Inspired by the exploits of Mike Horn, the Swiss-South African explorer, in addition to being notably robust and water-resistant up to a depth of 300m, this wide and wonderful watch is also hugely eco-friendly. Its case, its crown, its bezel and the caseback all come crafted in the brand’s proprietary recycled EcoTitanium, while its reassuringly sturdy straps are fashioned from repurposed Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET).

Not to be outdone, Roger Dubuis sought inspiration from wintry Swedish landscapes for its gigantically-proportioned, limited-edition-of-eight, 47mm Excalibur Pirelli Ice Zero 2. Created in partnership with Pirelli, the top tyre folk, it has been designed to embody the hardy qualities required to endure extreme cold. For this particular outing, the marque’s iconic skeletonised dial comes punctuated with a brilliant double flying tourbillon, with its Calibre RD105SQ movement perceivable beneath, while its straps reference the steel nail-studded design of Pirelli’s Ice Zero tyres.

The undoubted governor of the gargantuan, the true master of oversized watches – this time round at least – is mighty MB&F, the much-admired architect of all things avant-garde and, in particular, the bold creator of the Horological Machine No.6 Final Edition. A formidable 52mm in diameter, this time-telling titan boasts a recherché rectangular biomorphic case fitted with five 360-degree spheres, with the bottom two marking hours and minutes, while taking pride of place in the middle is an intricate flying tourbillon.

Comprising 475 individual parts and 68 gemstones, only eight of these final iterations of this much-loved series are ever destined to see the light of day. Essentially, it’s a simply colossal, carefully curated and cunningly-crafted collectors’ item and a prime example of oversized watches – but, then, aren’t they all?

Text: Tenzing Thondup