Platinum Pinnacle: Watchmakers exhibit a rare show of strength when crafting collectibles from this coveted metal
Watches crafted from platinum have rightly earned an exalted reputation for utilising perhaps the most prestigious metal in the high-end market. Ensuring striking aesthetics in luscious silvery tones, the gorgeous metallic finish combines well with many hues. Indeed, such is the lustre of platinum watches that they are often reserved for special-edition pieces. In addition, the superior strength, denseness and durability of this rare metal compared to gold make its manufacture an engineering and technical masterclass, while offering incredible versatility.
Take the new Platinum Edition Excalibur Monobalancier released by Roger Dubuis. The maison has been able to channel the durable and visually appealing qualities of platinum to mould a highly expressive timepiece that will stand the test of time. Emanating a vivid mint green colour, it features a striking skeletonised design with many signature elements and intricate line patterns. The expertise required in the making of the piece explains its exclusivity, as just 30g of platinum can be extracted from 10 tonnes of mineral, necessitating ultra-high fusion temperatures and engineering expertise.
Powered by the RD720SQ automatic self-winding movement with 72 hours of power reserve, the watch comes in a 42mm case with an open caseback crafted from platinum PT950 – the highest quality of platinum used in jewellery and prized in watchmaking for its outstanding anti-allergenic quality and resistance to tarnishing. Its eye-catching dial has a green lacquered double surface flange incorporating engraved minute track and transferred texts, as well as polished rhodium-plated hour markers.
Marking a first for the brand, Arnold & Son has leveraged the supreme qualities of 950 platinum in its latest Globetrotter release. The 45mm case of the limited-edition Globetrotter Platinum resonates with the magnificence of the precious metal, while the marvellous central globe pays tribute to the 18th-century maritime roots of John Arnold, the esteemed English watchmaking pioneer. The in-house automatic A&S6022 movement is decorated with a circular-grained and NAC (N-Acetylcysteine)-treated main plate that sits well with the colour and character of the platinum case. The bridges of the movement are also NAC-finished, and exhibit chamfered and polished Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre.
The Globetrotter’s signature terrestrial globe has rhodium-plated and polished continents with matt detailing on the mountain ranges, and hand-painted blue lacquer and powdered mother-of-pearl oceans and shores. A blue alligator-leather strap complements the graduated shades of blue that distinguish the three-dimensional dial.
Patek Philippe’s Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases is the headline attraction of a completely new collection. Etched out of platinum into a shape exhibiting a signature square with rounded corners, the 45mm watch has polished sides on the bezel and case flanks that contrast with the vertical satin-brushed finish of the front of the case and bezel. The timepiece is blessed with the new and outstanding calibre 240 PS CI J LU movement, with six patents required to achieve its instantaneous grand date complication. However, one enduring feature, and a hallmark of all the brand’s platinum models, is the 0.02-carat diamond set into the bezel at six o’clock – which is baguette-cut for the first time. A platinum Cubitus fold-over clasp fastens the navy blue strap with cream stitching.
Czapek & Cie’s aim when introducing the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition was to use platinum in an unexpected way. Released to celebrate the 70th anniversary of luxury retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the watch boasts a distinctive mirrored dial hewed from a single silicon wafer with its surface polished perfectly smooth and shiny before PVD platinum coating is applied. Limited to just 38 pieces, it is powered by the in-house Calibre SXH5 with a micro-rotor made from recycled 950 platinum. A bimetallic case and bracelet crafted from a blend of steel and yellow gold is designed to complement the mirrored dial.
Vacheron Constantin’s vision is to harness the qualities of platinum for its finest collections – such as the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. The precious metal is used extensively in the latest addition to this range, namely the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, released at this year’s Watches and Wonders and limited to just 50 pieces. Watch case, crown, dial, buckle and strap stitching – made of braided silk and platinum thread – are all endowed with the noble 950 platinum material. The inhouse manual-winding Calibre 3200 movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback.
To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Lange 1, Swiss maison A. Lange & Söhne has released new versions including an elite platinum model bearing a black onyx dial and limited to 300 pieces with edition number engraving. Meanwhile, a new iteration of the Little Lange 1 housed in a 950 platinum case comes in a 150-piece edition. The manufacture’s calibre L121.1 drives both models.
The attractive openworked design of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum watch intentionally conjures up a magnificent play on light. The skeletonised, polished and sandblasted oscillating weight of the in-house PF777 movement offers a captivating contrast with the sandblasted and satin-finished Milano blue dial, a phalanx of sharp angles and visual interplay. The polished and satin-finished case crafted from platinum 950 with knurled bezel adds to the spectacle and ensures an even distribution of weight for the timepiece.
When Breitling decided to reissue the historic AVI 1953 Edition, it also released two limited-edition precious-metal versions, one in platinum with just 153 iterations (a statement which is proudly engraved on the case) and another in rose gold numbering 253 pieces. While the new versions stay true to the renowned aviation roots of the original model, they are now water resistant to 300 metres and omit the ‘GENEVE’ lettering on the surface of the dial surface. Super-LumiNova also ensures luminescent numerals, hour and minute hands.
Hublot’s Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto Platinum is a limited-edition watch featuring a dial made from genuine Berluti-patinated Venezia leather with embossed indexes. The strap is also fashioned from this exclusive brown leather along with black rubber in a combination that projects a fine contrast to the polished platinum case and bezel. The self-winding HUB1100 movement is secured by a satin-finished platinum caseback featuring brand-related engravings.