In the realm of luxury, few objects carry the weight of legacy, craftsmanship and financial potential quite like a fine watch. More than just instruments of timekeeping, investment-grade watches are wearable statements – symbols of taste, heritage, and increasingly, smart portfolio diversification. With an anticipated rebound in the secondary market for timepieces, collectors are turning their attention to models that not only hold their value but also appreciate over time.

The best investment watches share a few key traits: brand prestige, rarity, historical significance and impeccable craftsmanship. Like fine art or vintage cars, they offer tangible value, emotional satisfaction, and – if chosen wisely – impressive returns. Platforms like Chrono24, The 1916 Company and Sotheby’s Watches have made it easier than ever to track market trends and authenticate purchases. Some models have appreciated by double or triple digits over the past decade, outperforming traditional investments.

Dialling Up Value

Scarcity is one of the main drivers of value appreciation. Limited editions, discontinued models and boutique-only releases create urgency. Watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 and the Rolex Submariner ‘Hulk’ saw massive spikes after being pulled from production. The manufactures that control supply, innovate in design and maintain heritage tend to outperform their rivals. Rolex’s tight distribution and Audemars Piguet’s limited releases are textbook examples of how brand strategy can boost value.

Cultural influence can also play a role. When a watch appears on the wrist of a celebrity like LeBron James (Richard Mille RM 65-01 Selfwinding Split-seconds Chronograph ‘LeBron James’) or Jay-Z (Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime), demand surges. Pop culture can turn a niche model into a global sensation overnight.

Record-breaking sales at Phillips or Christie’s can reset market expectations, too. A single high-profile auction may lead to the elevation of an entire reference line.

10 Investment Watches of Our Time

Rolex Daytona (Ref. 116500LN)

A legend in the world of chronographs, the Rolex Daytona is perpetually in demand. With its sleek black ceramic bezel and racing heritage, this model commands long waitlists and high resale prices. The Paul Newman vintage Daytona famously sold for US$17.8 million, cementing its place in horological history.

Patek Philippe Nautilus (Ref. 5711/1A)

Discontinued in 2021, the stainless steel Nautilus became a unicorn overnight. Designed by Gérald Genta, its elegant sport-luxury aesthetic and scarcity have driven prices to astronomical levels. It’s not just a watch, it’s a symbol of elite taste and insider access.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Ref. 15202ST)

Another Genta masterpiece, the Royal Oak redefined luxury sports watches. The ‘Jumbo’ edition, especially in steel, is highly collectible. AP’s strategy of limited releases and bold design keeps demand high and resale values strong.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

The first watch worn on the moon, the Speedmaster is steeped in history. Its timeless design and NASA legacy make it a favourite among collectors. Updates with coaxial movements have only enhanced its appeal.

Rolex Submariner Date (Ref. 126610LN)

The Submariner is the quintessential dive watch. Known for its durability and iconic design, it’s a staple in any investment portfolio. Vintage models, especially with ‘red’ text or rare dials, are particularly valuable.

Richard Mille RM 011

Richard Mille watches are futuristic, ultra-light and wildly expensive. The RM 011, with its skeletonised dial and tonneau case, is a favourite among athletes and celebrities. Limited production and exotic materials (like carbon TPT) make it a high-risk, high-reward investment.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas (Ref. 4500V)

Often overshadowed by its peers, the Overseas is gaining traction. With interchangeable straps, a sleek design and Geneva Seal movement, it’s a sleeper hit. As collectors seek alternatives to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Overseas is poised for growth.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Tudor, Rolex’s sibling brand, offers vintage charm at a more accessible price. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight, with its slim profile and retro styling, has become a cult favourite. It’s a great entry point for new investors.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu

Independent watchmaking is on the rise, and F.P. Journe’s limited output and artisanal approach make his watches highly collectible. The Chronomètre Bleu, with its tantalum case and mesmerising blue dial, is rare and revered.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Cartier’s Tank is a design icon. Worn by everyone from Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol, it blends elegance with cultural cachet. Vintage models, especially in gold, are increasingly sought after. Cartier’s resurgence in the collector world makes this a smart pick.

Trends to Watch

•     Independents’ Day: Collectors are flocking to brands like H. Moser, De Bethune and Rexhep Rexhepi.

•     Sustainability Success: Eco-conscious and high-tech composite materials are gaining traction. Panerai’s 2019 Mike Horn Edition Submersible, for example, was made of recycled titanium and plastic bottles.

•     Digital Dynamics: Blockchain-based certificates and NFT-linked watches are reshaping provenance.

•     Feminine Fundamentals: The demand for smaller case sizes and elegant complications is growing, opening new opportunities for women’s investment watches.

Tips for First-Time Investors

•     Buy what you love. If the market dips, you will still enjoy wearing it.

•     Research thoroughly. Understand reference numbers, movement types and market trends.

•     Condition is king. Original box, papers and unpolished cases add value.

•     Use trusted platforms. Stick to reputable dealers and marketplaces with authentication guarantees.

•     Think long-term. Watches are not quick flips. You need to hold them for years to see meaningful appreciation.

Investment watches are more than financial instruments – they are stories told in metal and movement, and embodiments of craftsmanship, history and personal style. In a world where time is money, few things embody both quite like a great watch.