Rio de Janeiro instantly conjures up mental imagery of its spectacular setting, framed by a massive mountain-top statue of Christ and an incredible number of beaches that form a majestic sandy ribbon along the southeast coastline of Brazil. The world-famous Carnival and intoxicating samba beat will also immediately spring to mind in this cultural melting pot blessed with stately architecture and culinary delights.

Such is the assault on the senses that a trip to the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City) leaves a deep visual impression. A panoply of vibrant hues, shifting shadows and plays on light brings unique sensory experiences every day. Many visitors enjoy themselves the most when they let their inhibitions run wild and go with the joyous flow. The local residents (cariocas) live life to the full, and tourists often become so bewitched by the relaxed, carefree spirit that they are loath to leave.

Carnival capers

The agreeable climate makes Brazil’s second most populous city a fantastic year-round destination, though December often sees heavy rainfall. Undoubtedly the best time to visit, however, is during the Carnival, which falls this year from February 28 to 8 March, a week when Rio rocks with street parties and non-stop private events.

Steeped in pagan tradition, Brazil hosts many carnivals leading up to Ash Wednesday (5 March 2025) and the start of Lent, but the celebration in Rio is by far the best known and most lavish. The city teems with visitors from around the globe keen to plunge headlong into the mayhem. Streets are jammed with revellers, fuelled by Brazilian beer and caipirinhas, and dancing and swaying to samba songs from morning to night. Many will be dressed as clowns and television personalities, or barely dressed in skimpy bikinis and feathers; cross-dressing is also common.

The ball at the Copacabana Palace hotel held on Carnival Saturday (1 March) is the hottest ticket in town. Fierce competition for best costume unleashes outrageous outfits from medieval troubadours to Roman Catholic archbishops.

Samba feats

The chance to win prizes also drives participants at the main samba school parades held on the Sunday and Monday nights. Giant mechanised carnival floats illustrating the motifs of the school, sequinned-and-spangled dancers and huge percussion sections sashay around the Sambodrome arena to be judged by an officially appointed jury.

Each parade is a visual extravaganza based around a distinctive central theme that will determine its imagery, costumes and choice of music. An Amazonian theme, for instance, may have elaborately costumed parade members appearing as rain-forest animals. The troupe is generally led by a porta bandeira, a female dancer who holds the school flag, and the mestre sala (dance master), with the bateria (drummers) charged with keeping a constant samba rhythm. Parades also feature agile lead dancers known as passistas who perform dazzling routines.

Beach life

Rio’s mile-upon-mile of gorgeous beaches is another top draw, with the most famous being the iconic crescent-shaped Copacabana. For many cariocas, the beach has become a way of life, and over the years a whole string of sunbathing sanctuaries along the shores has been developed. Aside from Copacabana, upscale sun- and water-worshippers will flock to Ipanema and Leblon. Offering far more seclusion to the southwest of the city are the white sands of Prainha Beach and Barra da Tijuca, a long, vibrant seaside playground.

Each of Rio’s beaches has its own style – there are sandy getaways for singles, families and sporty types, as well as those simply seeking a quiet spot in the sun. But it is Copacabana, where the beach culture began, which remains the centre of attraction. Once a quiet fishing village, the tourist district is now home to more than 350,000 people packed into 109 streets with a large concentration of hotels, restaurants and promenade cafés. The Rolling Stones famously gave a free concert on the beach here in 2006 to an audience of devoted fans estimated to number as many as two million.

Seaside stars

A great place to have a cocktail by the pool and an Italian meal with a Brazilian vibe is Cipriani Restaurant in the Copacabana Palace. The legendary hotel was established in the 1920s and refurbished much more recently in a bid to return the establishment to its glory days. Many international celebrities have enjoyed black-tie evenings at this famous watering hole.

Framed by the towering Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers) Mountains, Ipanema is an affluent neighbourhood with a stunning beach, fabulous restaurants and trendy boutiques. With a fringe of palm trees adding intimacy, the black-and-white mosaic promenade is the place for the young and beautiful to strut their stuff. Here, and in adjoining Leblon, you will find outstanding shops selling high-end luxury goods, including leather bags, shoes, clothing and gifts.

Sugar and spice

Situated on a peninsula jutting into Guanabara Bay is Sugarloaf Mountain, which offers amazing views of Copacabana and much of Rio. A magnificent ride up to the towering summit in bubble-shaped cable cars offering 360-degree views completes the trip – an exhilarating experience captured in thrilling spy-drama style by the 1979 James Bond film Moonraker.

Another must-visit spectacle on high is the statue of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) atop the hulking Corcovado mountain. This 98-foot-high Art Deco statue was sculpted in 1931 by French-Polish artist Paul Landowski and his team; it is visible for miles and watches over the whole city. An incredibly scenic route to Christ’s feet cuts through tropical foliage and affords mesmerising views across Rio and its glorious beaches.

Historic heart

The historic heart of Rio is located around Praça XV de Novembro, a bustling square surrounded by historic buildings and streets. The Paço Imperial, dating from 1743 and once the palatial home of Brazil’s governors, has been transformed into a cultural centre boasting a theatre, cinema, exhibition spaces and galleries, a library and restaurants. The neighbouring Tiradentes Palace, seat of the Rio de Janeiro state parliament, showcases impressive Belle Epoque-style architecture. The 10-minute stroll from Praça XV up to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária, an impressive church originating from 1775 with ornate Italian marble interiors, passes along what is considered the cultural corridor of Rio.

Just off the square through the Arco do Teles, a heritage-listed colonial arch, is a maze of narrow pedestrianised streets flanked by mid-18th-century buildings and shops with high ceilings. Travessa do Comercio is lined with bars and restaurants, while the adjacent Rua do Ouvidor also hosts fine eateries, including Al Khayam, a Middle Eastern restaurant in a historic townhouse with a wide menu – kousa mahshi (zucchini stuffed with rice and meat) is a highlight. The enjoyment of the occasion is sometimes enhanced with a belly-dancing show.

Nightly feasts

The broad choice of restaurants in Rio reflects the city’s multicultural charms. Many hotel restaurants serve the Brazilian national dish of feijoada, a stew of black beans and pork. Churrascarias, which specialise in steak and other grilled meats, are popular, especially those where servers bring a seemingly never-ending supply of juicy rodizio-style skewered meat to the table, ready to slice on demand.

Rio is also dotted with small neighbourhood bars-cum-eateries called botecos – Garota de Ipanema (named after the famous song) is one to savour. Chopp, a fresh and frosty Brazilian draught beer, and caipirinha cocktails of cachaça (spirit distilled from sugarcane), lime and sugar, are popular pours. A walking tour of the densely populated favelas (shantytowns) is bound to be an eye-opener, especially after a late night in a boteco or partying all night with the Carnival crowds.