Snake under the Glass: A slew of imaginative watches slithers into view in time for Chinese New Year  

By Neil Dolby
Feb 19, 2025

High-end watchmakers show their wisdom by releasing auspicious additions to their collections to herald the Year of the Snake. Oozing charm and reverence in equal measures, this magnificent and mysterious creature plays well in these intricately crafted new designs that pay homage to the Chinese Zodiac, and avid collectors will revel in the amazing feats of horological innovation devised to celebrate Chinese cultural identity. Remember, it is the Wood Snake that has slithered into the spotlight for the first time since 1965, giving rise to a legion of agile, clever and courageous watch owners!


First up, Franck Muller has honoured the serpent by debuting an amazing-looking model, Silhouette CX Snake. This elegant 18-carat rose-gold watch succeeds in reflecting the sinuous nature of the reptile both as a motif on the dial and in a new asymmetrical case, which is an imaginative reworking of the Swiss manufacture’s statement Cintrée Curvex shape. The Silhouette CX’s curves and undulating lines mirror the writhing motion of the slippery snake on the watch face, where it appears in two dazzling swathes of tightly packed deep-green emeralds in the snow-setting technique. Hand-applied numerals on the sun-patterned guilloché dial are aligned with the unconventional dimensions of the watch design, as is the casing ring which houses the inhouse MVT FM 2038 movement. Embossed with a snakeskin texture, the hand-sewn serpentine-green calf-leather strap adds another touch to a timepiece that coolly captures the snake’s allure.


The Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Snake watch maintains Hublot’s tradition of reinterpreting models to mark the dawn of each Chinese New Year. A striking aspect of the timepiece, which is limited to just 88 pieces, is a dial illuminated by a three-dimensional gold-plated snake applique that wraps around the chronograph counters. Created with the aid of laser technology, this golden spectacle appears even more surreal as the dial is framed by a microblasted and polished black ceramic bezel engraved with snake-like scales. This look and feel extends to the rubber strap, thus achieving a sinuous, slithering whole. Typical of this line of watches, the self-winding skeletonised HUB4700 movement is clearly visible through the sapphire crystal of the open dial and display caseback.


Blancpain, similarly, has launched the next iteration of its ongoing homage to the Chinese calendar. Housed in a 45.2mm platinum case, Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel 2025 features a fetching green Grand Feu enamel dial with an assortment of indications displayed in Chinese character-inscribed sub-dials, including the five elements, celestial stems and leap month. Naturally, a wood snake is spied through the 12 o’clock aperture of the new Chinois Traditionnel watch. Artisans at Blancpain’s Métiers d’Art workshop, meanwhile, embossed the 22-carat white-gold rotor with an arresting image of a coiled snake, accompanied by the words ‘serpent’ and ‘wood’ in Chinese.


Odes to Chinese New Year appear at back and front of LonginesConquest Heritage Year of the Snake. The watch’s vintage ’50s-style sunray gradient dial is an auspicious red, while Beijing-based artist Wu Jian’an beautifully engraves the caseback with a serpent inspired by the Chinese folklore, Legend of the White Snake. The accompanying words, “2025 Year of the Snake – Limited Edition – One of 2025”, are also designed to bring good luck and fortune. An inhouse L888 automatic movement provides 72 hours of power reserve and 10 times the standard magnetic resistance.



The Reverso Tribute Enamel Snake, strictly limited and made to order, is the third timepiece in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Chinese Zodiac range. A snake motif has been chiselled onto the reverse side of the pink-gold watch case by an inhouse enameller using a modelled engraving technique. Requiring 10 different chisels and 80 hours of work, this painstaking process is made even more arduous by a surface of glossy black Grand Feu enamel rather than bare metal. The glowing black background – also used for the dial – perfectly contrasts with the intricate details of the snake’s body. Set in golden clouds, the serpent appears to shimmer and writhe with each movement of light.


Vacheron Constantin applies its mastery of enamelling and hand-engraving to pay tribute to Chinese culture through the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese ZodiacYear of the Snake watch. Limited to 25 pieces each in pink gold or platinum, the timely new edition celebrates the powers of the snake with a lifelike miniature picture of a majestic cobra atop a rock on the dial. The finest enamelling and engraving techniques render a sinuous ochre-coloured serpent with matching rock and foliage on the pink-gold version, while the platinum model sees snake and rock embellished in anthracite grey with green leaves. Keeping this rich decoration unobstructed, apertures rather than hands display the time, day and date.


A specially-designed serpent-shaped rotor is the highlight of the Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 Year of the Snake watch launched by IWC Schaffhausen. Its 37mm stainless-steel case also houses a striking burgundy dial that symbolises the vibrant colour of fire, which in the Lunar New Year tradition is matched by golden moon and stars and hands and numerals. Powered by the IWC-manufactured 32800 calibre with a reserve of 120 hours, the watch boasts two straps – black and burgundy.


Harry Winston ushers two gem-set limited-edition watches starring the snake into its Moments collection to celebrate the annual auspicious tidings. Crafted from rose or white gold, the Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm timepieces have a spectacular dial embellished with a red lacquered serpent writhing around in a lush garden – the exquisite detailing of the latter achieved through metal leaves painted in green on a beaded mother-of-pearl background. These timely arrivals are ringed by a diamond-studded bezel and backed by the Calibre HW2010.


A kaleidoscope of vibrant hues conjures the mood of the two watches released by Swatch to celebrate the ascendant Wood Snake. Blue and Golden Lithe Dancer and Golden Red Bamboo both come in special packaging matching their outstanding designs. The former, a Big Bold model, features a snake prancing across a dark-blue background, and the sleeker Skin Irony edition contrasts striking colours in an ultra-thin case.