While food and wine pairings have been done to death over the years, gourmands and libation lovers may yet have a final frontier to conquer – water. This much-overlooked liquid is finally being recognised as the third crucial component in any truly grand gastronomic experience. So much so, in fact, that it has given rise to the first wave of water sommeliers, H₂O aficionados skilled in the arcane rites of harmonisation, i.e. the newly coined term for the process of wine-water-food pairings.

To date, Jason Kuok is the first and only certified water sommelier in Hong Kong. According to him, “Water is a very important element of any meal. As it can impact on your enjoyment of your chosen food and wine, care should be taken to pair the right food with the right wine and the most appropriate water.”

While it’s tempting to dismiss this as yet another far-fetched fad on the part of the over-dined, there is some scientific(ish) support for the notion. According to Dr Michael Mascha, a US food anthropologist, Americans and Europeans are starting to pay as much attention to the water as to the wine when they sit down to dine. When Ray’s & Stark Bar, an LA-based Mediterranean-style restaurant, launched a 42-page water menu, it saw its water sales soar by 500%.

So, how exactly should wine and water complement one other? According to Giuseppe Vaccarini and Claudia Moriondo, two of Italy’s most renowned wine sommeliers, alternately sipping wine and water should allow the palate to experience a series of overlapping sensations without one overpowering the other. As a rule, they say it’s best to serve still water with white wines or young reds and to match both of these with white proteins, fish, seafood and salads.

In the case of the full-bodied reds wines, these tend to have a bolder personality with a high tannin levels. As a result, they are best paired with rich proteins and S.Pellegrino-style sparkling water, with the liquid’s higher mineral content and light sparkle ideal for rinsing and refreshing the palate.

Whatever your chosen menu, Clément Vachon, Sanpellegrino’s international relations and communication director, says there is always one golden rule – “The water always pairs the wine, not the other way round.”

Expanding upon his belief, he says: “The king of the table is the dish. For centuries, wine pairings have enhanced the dining experience, while water remained the missing part of the trilogy. Now, by properly combining all three, you get the ultimate experience.”

Our recommendations

 Bollinger Grande Anée 2007 + Acqua Panna + Tuna Tartare

This wine is endowed with a lovely aromatic fullness, complete with honey flavours and a smooth chalky texture; candied lemon notes and a delicious bitterness, all concluding with a wonderfully refreshing finish. Acqua Panna harmonises well with the wine without overpowering the taste sensations and you can match this with a light tuna tartare or a gavlax of salmon for a truly great accompaniment.

Ornellaia Bolgheri 2013 + S.Pellegrino + Florentine steak

This Tuscan wine boasts a beguiling blend of Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Ornellaia 2013, with its vibrant colour, has a nose of aromatic complexity, thoughtfully structured around a complex fruitiness and spiciness resonant with distinct balsamic notes. Pair with a glass of S.Pellegrino and a protein dish, such as a Florentine steak with a lemon butter sauce.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay