Candlelight flickering over repurposed wine bottles coated with cascading wax catches the eye upon stepping into Jean-Pierre. Its subtle glow casts a warm, amber hue across this French bistro in the back streets of Central, setting the tone for an evening of indulgence and revelry. Lush roses complement the deep red, burgundy and dark-green hues of velvet curtains and plush upholstery, while the slow, lo-fi soundtrack drapes the room in a nostalgic haze, whispering tales of Parisian soirées long past. It’s a space designed not just for dining but for immersion, marrying the glamour of old-world Paris with the vibrancy of contemporary Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s lively hub is the elegant cocktail bar, perfect for early starts or late-night endings, where a skilled team crafts drinks that are as artful as they are delicious. However, the beating heart of Jean-Pierre is its kitchen, helmed by rising star John Troupis. “Conviviality is at the heart of what we do,” explains Troupis. “We want you sharing, having fun and drinking wine. Dining here is about more than just the food – it’s about the experience, the stories, the laughter.” His philosophy echoes through every dish, which is crafted to encourage communal sharing and celebration.

The menu reads like a love letter to French cuisine’s glorious simplicity. Classics such as Steak Tartare, Soupe à l’Oignon and Boeuf Bourguignon serve as the perfect backdrop for conviviality. Chef John emphasises the importance of authenticity, stating: “We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel but to make the best-ever rendition of these timeless dishes.”

The thick, soulful onion soup arrives with a golden crust of melted cheese, while the beef, slathered in Bourguignon sauce, melts in your mouth, tender and rich with red wine and earthy mushrooms. Spectacle is woven into the food. Tableside flambéed Crêpes Suzette crackles in a blaze of light, and Sole Meunière arrives with theatrical flair, the fish perfectly crisped and bathed in a buttery sauce.

The pièce de résistance is Poulet de Simone, a reimagining of classic roast chicken featuring Hong Kong’s exceptional three yellow chicken stuffed with mushrooms, tarragon and spinach. The simple but iconic Oeuf Mimosa, served per hard-boiled egg half, pays homage to the long-lived French tradition.

Taking centre stage is La Table de Jean-Pierre, a large round table that seats up to nine people who become part of the celebration, immersed in the lively atmosphere. The extensive wine list, curated by sommeliers Jean-Baptiste Copot and Nicolas Eyquem, features everything from Grand Crus to Hong Kong’s first Languedoc on tap. For those indulging to the utmost, the Tournée de Jean-Pierre offers a collective toast with glasses of Ayala Champagne for every guest in the house – a true embodiment of French conviviality.

The American chef, who worked under three-star Christian Bau in Germany before landing at Hong Kong’s French fine-dining institution, Amber, in 2019, offers his insights on bistro culture: “Sharing meals is about bringing people together, giving them a moment to connect. It’s not just about the plate but the story and the experience around it.” Troupis’ passion is evident when he talks about executing dishes like Steak au Poivre and Soupe à l’Oignon perfectly – the kind of honest, truthful cooking that leaves no room for error but offers endless satisfaction.

The spirit of Parisian joie de vivre pulses at Jean-Pierre. It’s a place where laughter, storytelling and celebration are woven into the very fabric of the experience. “Our founder Marc Hofmann describes his father [Jean-Pierre] as the ultimate host – a bon vivant who filled their home with laughter and shared meals,” explains Chef John. “That generosity of spirit is what we aim to recreate here.”

Truly, at Jean-Pierre, food becomes a bridge, connecting cultures, stories and people. As its Chef de Cuisine concludes, “Through cooking, we share stories and transport guests to another time and place. That’s the greatest gift we can give.”

Porterhouse. 24/F, California Tower 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong.

Tel: 2522 6366. lkfconcepts.com

Text: Joseff Musa    Photos: Black Sheep Restaurants