It wasn’t all that long ago that women’s watches were considered poor relations in the ever-so-slightly macho world of precision timepieces. Thankfully, though, many haute horology houses have belatedly gotten their act together, regretting the inherent disrespect shown by such an attitude, while also coming to appreciate the commercial opportunity offered by super-serving a new generation of wealthy women watch-wearers. Which factor was the most compelling, though, is perhaps best left as a matter of conjecture.

Very much a pioneer in de-testosteroning the timepiece sector was Vacheron Constantin, with the venerable watchmaker electing to show only female-friendly chronograms at the 2013 edition of the prestigious SIHH watch fair. More recently, TAG Heuer went even further, boldly declaring 2018 as the ‘Year of the Women’.

So, has all this ushered in a true Golden Age for  ladies’ luxury timepieces? While such a proclamation may seem a little premature (at best), a quick stroll through the latest offerings from some of the most-admired marques certainly suggests change is in the air.

A prime example of this new sensibility is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Moon Jewellery. The latest addition to the brand’s iconic female-focused Rendez-Vous collection – sales of which accounted for 45 percent of the brand’s revenue back in 2013 – this latest iteration features a fetching double-ring design, with the outer bezel and inner dial circle neatly set with 126 diamonds. Classically elegant, its mother-of-pearl / rose gold fascia has been further enhanced with the prominent placement of a moon phase indicator at the 6 o’clock mark.

A more minimalist take on this dual-circled conceit comes courtesy of Girard-Perregaux’s Cat’s Eye Plum Blossom Aventurine. Ringed by a diamond-studded rose gold bezel, its midnight blue, night sky-themed dial is prettily punctuated with twinkling crystals. Perched above its uncluttered face is the watch’s only other adornment – a small seconds indicator in the form of a golden plum blossom.

Majoring on its conspicuous handcraftsmanship, meanwhile, Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Pig fully exploits the brand’s expertise in delivering beguiling miniatures. Housed in an engaging red gold case, its real appeal lies in its hand-engraved, manually-patinated pig applique. Available in a limited edition of just 28, this collectors’-item-to-be is the perfect wrist-sized memento of the Year of the Pig and an undeniably chic chick-centric chronometer.

Similarly inspired by all things artisanal, eternally high-end Hermès has unveiled its own limited-edition-of-12 animal-motifed timepiece – the Arceau Baobab Cat. Utilising the self-same baobab cat emblem that graces many of the brand’s iconic silk scarves, in this instance it has been painstakingly recreated through handcrafted applique work, prior to being set into the onyx dial. Encircling this undeniably fascinating feline are hand-painted flower petals, all neatly ringed within a dazzling sapphire-studded bezel.

Bringing the focus squarely back to less macho movements, though, is Rolex, with the latest iteration of its Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31. Originally introduced in 1945, this petite 31mm timepiece was the first self-winding, waterproof wristwatch to feature a date indicator at 3 o’clock. In line with this, the new models – available in 18K white, yellow or Everose gold – all come fitted with a Calibre 2236 movement, while being hermetically-sealed and waterproof to 100m.

Never one to be outdone, Audemars Piguet has blended its characteristic mechanical know-how with an haute joaillerie flourish to create the Royal Oak Quartz. Available in white or pink gold and fitted with a super-slim, high-performance Calibre 2713 movement, almost every inch of its gleaming real estate is liberally coated with baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Rounding off our selection of fantastically-finessed feminine designs is Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phase de Lune, which, of course, boasts the brand’s signature moon phase indicator. In this particular variant, the feminine moon face comes charmingly adorned with a beauty spot at the corner of its Mona Lisa smile just above the 6 o’clock aperture. Comprising an ultra-thin self-winding 913QL.P movement, the piece also features the marque’s signature calendar indicator.

From moon phase mechanisms and marvellous movements to the application of long-lauded artisanal techniques, it’s clear that women-oriented watches are finally coming into their own. In the place of the somewhat blasé designs of yesteryears, there is now a slew of truly show-stopping statement pieces, many of which are at least as complex and as visually stunning as any of their male-minded counterparts. Frankly, though, it’s about time.

 

Text: Tenzing Thondup