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Forget any notion you had that Britain is a nation of tea addicts. As any true anglophile will tell you, it’s actually gin that flows in the veins of every true English man and woman. The Brits first succumbed to the allure of gin during the Thirty Years’ War, a prolonged 17th-century skirmish where they witnessed their Dutch allies knocking back Jenever (a rudimentary gin) to calm their pre-battle nerves – a practice that gave the world the term ‘Dutch courage’. It also gave the English a taste for gin, with their habitual indulgence in the spirit something they took back home with them.
<figure id="attachment_47734" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47734" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47734" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/William-Hogarths-painting-Beer-Street-and-Gin-Lane-depicted-the-evil-effects-of-gin-on-the-womenfolk-of-London-in-18th-century-min.jpg" alt="" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/William-Hogarths-painting-Beer-Street-and-Gin-Lane-depicted-the-evil-effects-of-gin-on-the-womenfolk-of-London-in-18th-century-min.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/William-Hogarths-painting-Beer-Street-and-Gin-Lane-depicted-the-evil-effects-of-gin-on-the-womenfolk-of-London-in-18th-century-min-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/William-Hogarths-painting-Beer-Street-and-Gin-Lane-depicted-the-evil-effects-of-gin-on-the-womenfolk-of-London-in-18th-century-min-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/William-Hogarths-painting-Beer-Street-and-Gin-Lane-depicted-the-evil-effects-of-gin-on-the-womenfolk-of-London-in-18th-century-min-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/William-Hogarths-painting-Beer-Street-and-Gin-Lane-depicted-the-evil-effects-of-gin-on-the-womenfolk-of-London-in-18th-century-min-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47734" class="wp-caption-text">William Hogarth&#8217;s painting Beer Street and Gin Lane depicted the evil effects of gin on the womenfolk of London in 18th century</figcaption></figure>
It has to be said, the pairing of the legendarily thirsty Brits with this juniper berry-flavoured spirit has not always been a happy one. In the mid-18th century, for instance, the drink was warily referred to as ‘mother’s ruin’, a testament to its detrimental effect on the ladyfolk of the day. Later, when it was heavily taxed in a bid to deter overindulgence, London’s libation lovers rose up in protest. None of these delinquent incidents, however, diminished the nation’s love for its adopted tipple and, as the British Empire expanded across the globe, gin arrived in every annexed territory.
Then, as now, the most popular way to enjoy gin was by mixing it with tonic, a combination supposedly potent enough to ward off malaria, even in the depths of the Indian subcontinent. Indeed, it is not too much of a stretch to say that gin and tonic fuelled the growth of the British Empire. Acknowledging this, Winston Churchill, the legendary prime minister who steered the UK through WWII, was once heard to say: “Gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives and minds than all the doctors in the British Empire.”
<figure id="attachment_47731" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47731" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47731" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Gins-neautral-flavours-make-it-such-a-cocktail-essential-min-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47731" class="wp-caption-text">Gin&#8217;s neutral flavours make it such a cocktail essential</figcaption></figure>
Today, while the empire is long gone, the gin and tonic continues to reign supreme. No longer a medicinal tipple sipped throughout tropical postings, it is now a staple at bars and clubs from the swankiest to the mankiest, from London to Los Angeles, and at every stop in between. Although briefly eclipsed by vodka in the ’70s and ’80s, it has long regained its place at the top of the tippling table, with the introduction of trendy artisanal gins and its adoption as a cocktail essential seeing generation after generation enamoured by its chilled-out charm.
In many ways, it is its chameleon-like qualities that have ensured its lasting success. Its mild flavours, for instance, make it a welcome addition to just about any cocktail, with only a few millilitres of gin enough to give any libation an added zing. What’s more, gin’s largely neutral flavour can easily be transformed by the judicious addition of botanical infusions. While orange, lavender and vanilla pods remain the most popular options, more and more bars are coming up with their own bespoke infusions.
<figure id="attachment_47733" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47733" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47733" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Stable-Bar-at-House-1881-offers-customised-gin-infusions-to-guests-min-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47733" class="wp-caption-text">Stable Bar at House 1881 offers customised gin infusions to guests</figcaption></figure>
One local quaffery looking to take a lead on this particular front is the TST-based Stable Bar. Set within the venerable precincts of House 1881, it divides its choice of infusions into fruity, floral, spicy and refreshing, with the more exotic options on offer being Sichuan pepper, chamomile, caramel and lemongrass.
Assistant Manager Tony Ng, however, warns against adding too many flavours, saying: “We recommend a maximum of three to four botanicals per drink, otherwise it can be a real assault on the senses.” Depending on your choice of herbs, the colour of your drink is also likely to be transformed, with lavender adding a purple hue and caramel occasioning a mellow yellow tone. First-timers, however, are best advised to stick to a flavourful and foolproof combination of lime, cucumber and orange, while those who want to be more experimental can ginsplice away to their heart’s content.
Grapefruit and Ginger-Infused Gin
Ingredients
1 red grapefruit 
2 one-inch slices of ginger 
15g sugar 
350ml gin
Instructions
<ol>
<li>Peel the zest off the grapefruit. Halve the grapefruit and squeeze out its juice</li>
<li>Place the peel, juice, ginger and sugar in an airtight jar. Pour the gin into the jar and seal it</li>
<li>Store in a cool, dark place for a week or two, gently swirling the jar every couple of days to dissolve the sugar</li>
<li>Strain the gin into a jug through a sieve lined with muslin. Serve with zest of grapefruit and ice</li>
</ol>
<figure id="attachment_47732" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47732" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47732" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Grapefruit-and-ginger-infused-gin-min-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47732" class="wp-caption-text">Grapefruit and ginger-infused gin</figcaption></figure>
&nbsp;Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

How gin conquered half the world and became a cocktail essential

It&#8217;s one of the paradoxes of Hong Kong that in the midst of all its towering skyscrapers, old-school British colonial buildings still manage to retain their unique charm and legacy. It is one such heritage site, the Old Marine Police Headquarters in Tsim Sha Tsui, that has been the latest to undergo a facelift, re-positioning itself from the former Hullett House to a brand-new hotel, House 1881. Housed within the posh interiors of this hotel is a new Cantonese restaurant, Fortune Villa, that has just opened its doors earlier this year.&nbsp;
<figure id="attachment_44042" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-44042" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-44042" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5.jpg" alt="Fortune Villa" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/5-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-44042" class="wp-caption-text">A mix of contemporary and traditional decor at Fortune Villa</figcaption></figure>
Curious to find out just what sets this restaurant apart in a city that&#8217;s chock-a-block with Chinese cuisine, we headed off to House 1881 on a particularly rainy afternoon. While locating the restaurant turned out to be a bit off a hunt – what with the hotel&#8217;s service staff not being able to help us and a rather nondescript door opening into the restaurant – the interiors proved to be pleasant in a minimalistic way from the moment we stepped in. Replete with Chinese motifs in black lacquer against a stark white backdrop, Fortune Villa&#8217;s decor is traditional with just a hit of modernity, and what it lacks in terms of size, it makes up for it in style and simple elegance. What remained to be seen is if this approach translated to the menu as well.
<figure id="attachment_44043" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-44043" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-44043" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-2-1.jpg" alt="Fortune Villa" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-2-1.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-2-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-2-1-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-2-1-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-2-1-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-44043" class="wp-caption-text">Baked Abalone Puff with Diced Chicken</figcaption></figure>
The first dish we tried, the Steamed Shrimp Dumpling, was succulent and aromatic, but for a city that loves its dim sums, it may take a bit more to convert Hongkongers into a fan of this particular rendition of a very popular dish. The next item on the menu, the Baked Abalone Puff with Diced Chicken, turned out be quite a revelation. Although similar to a chicken pie in flavour and texture, the addition of the savoury abalone added a buttery goodness to the dish. The Drunken Foie Gras in Chinese Hua Diao Rice Wine proved to be another pleasant surprise, with the softness of the foie gras complementing the crunchiness of the toast in each bite. In contrast, the BB Pigeon in Rice Wine Sauce turned out to be a difficult dish to consume, with the bony bits of the pigeon somewhat distracting the diner from the juicy meat.
<figure id="attachment_44044" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-44044" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-44044" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3.jpg" alt="Fortune Villa" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/3-3-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-44044" class="wp-caption-text">Drunken Foie Gras in Chinese Hua Diao Rice Wine</figcaption></figure>
In fact, meat lovers can forgo the pigeon completely and opt for the Barbecued Iberico Pork Fillets with Honey Sauce instead. Essentially an interpretation of the popular Cantonese dish char siu pork, here the meat was tender, aromatic and served in convenient bite-sized portions. But while it was flavourful in its own right, it does need a bit more finesse before it can compete with some of the better renditions of this much-sought-after dish at other Chinese restaurants.
<figure id="attachment_44045" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-44045" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-44045" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1.jpg" alt="Fortune Villa" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/4-1-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-44045" class="wp-caption-text">Barbecued Iberico Pork Fillets with Honey Sauce</figcaption></figure>
Moving on to desserts, then, the Yin-yang Sesame Rolls were as pleasing to look at as they were to consume. Made with both black and the somewhat rarer white sesame seeds, Fortune Villa&#8217;s version of this popular dessert is both finely layered and mildly sweet and works just fine even for those without a sweet tooth.
<figure id="attachment_44046" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-44046" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-44046" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7.jpg" alt="Fortune Villa" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/1-7-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-44046" class="wp-caption-text">Yin-yang Sesame Rolls</figcaption></figure>
With so many Cantonese restaurants vying for attention, it&#8217;s no doubt difficult for yet another Chinese restaurant to make its mark in an already saturated market. It&#8217;s only fair to say that, being the newest kid on the block, Fortune Villa is still trying to find its niche. And once it does, it&#8217;ll be a restaurant to watch out for.&nbsp;
Text: <a href="mailto:suchetana@itotalmedia.com">Suchetana Mukhopadhyay</a>

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How gin conquered half the world and became a cocktail essential

Fortune Villa: Canto cuisine in colonial setting with contemporary flair