It’s one of the paradoxes of Hong Kong that in the midst of all its towering skyscrapers, old-school British colonial buildings still manage to retain their unique charm and legacy. It is one such heritage site, the Old Marine Police Headquarters in Tsim Sha Tsui, that has been the latest to undergo a facelift, re-positioning itself from the former Hullett House to a brand-new hotel, House 1881. Housed within the posh interiors of this hotel is a new Cantonese restaurant, Fortune Villa, that has just opened its doors earlier this year. 

Curious to find out just what sets this restaurant apart in a city that’s chock-a-block with Chinese cuisine, we headed off to House 1881 on a particularly rainy afternoon. While locating the restaurant turned out to be a bit off a hunt – what with the hotel’s service staff not being able to help us and a rather nondescript door opening into the restaurant – the interiors proved to be pleasant in a minimalistic way from the moment we stepped in. Replete with Chinese motifs in black lacquer against a stark white backdrop, Fortune Villa’s decor is traditional with just a hit of modernity, and what it lacks in terms of size, it makes up for it in style and simple elegance. What remained to be seen is if this approach translated to the menu as well.

The first dish we tried, the Steamed Shrimp Dumpling, was succulent and aromatic, but for a city that loves its dim sums, it may take a bit more to convert Hongkongers into a fan of this particular rendition of a very popular dish. The next item on the menu, the Baked Abalone Puff with Diced Chicken, turned out be quite a revelation. Although similar to a chicken pie in flavour and texture, the addition of the savoury abalone added a buttery goodness to the dish. The Drunken Foie Gras in Chinese Hua Diao Rice Wine proved to be another pleasant surprise, with the softness of the foie gras complementing the crunchiness of the toast in each bite. In contrast, the BB Pigeon in Rice Wine Sauce turned out to be a difficult dish to consume, with the bony bits of the pigeon somewhat distracting the diner from the juicy meat.

In fact, meat lovers can forgo the pigeon completely and opt for the Barbecued Iberico Pork Fillets with Honey Sauce instead. Essentially an interpretation of the popular Cantonese dish char siu pork, here the meat was tender, aromatic and served in convenient bite-sized portions. But while it was flavourful in its own right, it does need a bit more finesse before it can compete with some of the better renditions of this much-sought-after dish at other Chinese restaurants.

Moving on to desserts, then, the Yin-yang Sesame Rolls were as pleasing to look at as they were to consume. Made with both black and the somewhat rarer white sesame seeds, Fortune Villa’s version of this popular dessert is both finely layered and mildly sweet and works just fine even for those without a sweet tooth.

With so many Cantonese restaurants vying for attention, it’s no doubt difficult for yet another Chinese restaurant to make its mark in an already saturated market. It’s only fair to say that, being the newest kid on the block, Fortune Villa is still trying to find its niche. And once it does, it’ll be a restaurant to watch out for. 

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay