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Geneva Watch Days draws a plethora of independent manufactures to the city’s waterfront, where they shine alongside the bigger boys. The summer event acts as a platform for Swiss watchmaking and has been growing in stature since it was inaugurated in 2020 by eight prestigious brands. The number of participants has since mushroomed, and this year some 40 fine watchmakers took the opportunity to release new models or showcase their most eye-catching designs.



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Take Breitling, which launched the new Navitimer 36 and 32 – two slender iterations, 36 mm and 32 mm respectively, to round out the Navitimer collection, and ideal for those who prefer a less weighty time machine on their wrists. Powered by the robust Breitling Calibre 17, the luxury models have mother-of-pearl dials studded with lab-grown diamonds and 18-carat red gold cases with cambered sapphire glass that is glare- proof on both sides. They can be worn with a seven- row traceable gold bracelet or an alligator leather strap. The 32mm version embraces the line’s first- ever powdery pink and light blue faces alongside the classic white. Using sustainable gold and diamonds vouches for the watchmaker’s integrity as well as its aesthetic credentials.


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-632x1024.png" alt="" class="wp-image-78292" width="474" height="768" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-632x1024.png 632w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-173x280.png 173w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-768x1244.png 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-948x1536.png 948w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-1264x2048.png 1264w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-200x324.png 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/30_Breitling-Navitimer-32-Origins_Ref.-R77320E61A1R1_RGB-800x1296.png 800w" sizes="(max-width: 474px) 100vw, 474px" /></figure></div>


Bulgari’s watch collections combine Italian aesthetics with Swiss craftsmanship, as epitomised by novelties like the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar which were presented at the Geneva event. Their combination of anthracite high-tech carbon and pink gold makes them true standouts. At just 2.23 mm thick, the Automatic version sports the BVL 138 ultra-thin mechanical calibre movement, featuring a platinum miniature automatic disc with small seconds, a power reserve of 60 hours and waterproofing to a depth of 100 metres. Its forged carbon dial comes with gold-plated hands and hour makers. The more complex BVL 305 self-winding mechanical calibre of the Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, is only slightly thicker at 2.75 mm and it likewise proudly shows a textured, anthracite carbon face with luxurious accents in rose gold.


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Through its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari aims to create unique timepieces by employing techniques such as contrasting polishing or monochrome treatment on a variety of materials like stainless steel, gold and ceramics. Models are consistently striking with round bezels against octagonal surfaces.



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Interestingly, and highlighting the significance attached to Geneva Watch Days, year-old brand Byrne released the Gyro Dial Zero in pink gold and its limited-edition set with diamonds. This updated version follows the original rotating-indices watch concept released at the same event last year, in which the dial changes every day on either the stroke of midnight or noon according to the whim of its wearer. This unique attribute occurs as the dial’s four cardinal indexes (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o&#8217;clock) pivot in a flash to reveal a different face. The rose gold-encased Zero offers a new stylish, pared-down beauty exposing the magnificent mechanism within.


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-1024x683.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-78300" width="768" height="512" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-420x280.jpg 420w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/BYRNE-PINK-GOLD-IGOR-FULL-HD-300-DPI-4-800x534.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /></figure></div>


By contrast, Girard-Perregaux, founded in 1791, is one of the oldest fine-watch manufactures still in operation and maintaining all the required horological skills in-house, it has more than 100 recorded patents. It displayed the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, the latest model in an ultra-modern collection that uses the best solutions in materials technology. Formed of a carbon/titanium composite in octagonal parts via the 8Tech method, the case creates a random structural pattern. Indeed, the whole watch is made from a combination of differently shaped components and materials playfully juxtaposed together, with its splendid swirl decoration adding further interest. The GP03300-1058 automatic movement can be spied through a smoked sapphire-crystal caseback.


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Russian watchmaker and inventor Konstantin Chaykin, known for his unique timepieces and artistic creations, auctioned a selection of his amazing monster-face watches and their accompanying sketches at the event. These included the Smilodon, which takes its inspiration from the prehistoric sabre-toothed tiger and boasts some unique functions; the limited-edition Joker Five, which features a distinctive day of the week indicator; and the prototype of his latest Wristmon, a jovial and optimistic-looking character.


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Ulysse Nardin brought out the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a watch which showcases the aesthetic qualities of silicon aside from its undoubted technical specifications. Ergonomically strong with pronounced geometric lines, the 45mm timepiece has an escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon and uses blades technology. Its ultra-glass box design reveals the avant-garde movement, with a flying tourbillon commanding attention at 6 o’clock. The white-gold case is satin- finished and polished and opened at back with sapphire glass. To top off the unconventional look of the piece, it comes with a distinctive blue matte and polished silicon marquetry dial. The backplate is matte silicon, too.


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Another Geneva Watch Days highlight was the launch of two models by luxury watchmaker H. Moser &amp; Cie: the minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack. Composed of super-dark carbon nanostructures, which absorb 99.965% of light that hit them, the Vantablack dials can claim to have the effect of a black hole, sucking in all light in mesmerising contrast with their red-gold cases.


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Also Read: <a href="https://igafencu.com/articles/retro-revolution">Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe</a>

Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu watch 600x337

Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

As any watch enthusiast will only too willingly inform you, the movement of a high-end timepiece represents the very pinnacle of precision engineering, with each one painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate pieces to produce something that is far greater than the sum of its many parts. For much of horological history, however, these mechanical wonders have been secreted away, stashed beneath the dazzling dials designed to ensure that the true engine room is seldom glimpsed by the eyes of the uninitiated.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-47589" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches.jpg" alt="Rise of skeleton dial watches" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Rise-of-skeleton-dial-watches-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Thankfully, the last few decades have gone some way towards remedying this, largely on account of the rise of the temptingly transparent skeleton dial. Here, the emphasis is on leaving the watch’s fascia wholly unadorned and see-through on one or both sides, allowing the inner workings of these high-end chronograms to be easily – and continually – observed. While many of the manifestations of this particular trend are undeniably marvellous, seven of the current crop are particularly memorable…
<figure id="attachment_47590" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47590" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47590" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Breguets-Classique-Tourbillon-Extra-Plat-Squelette-5395.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Breguet's Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Breguets-Classique-Tourbillon-Extra-Plat-Squelette-5395.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Breguets-Classique-Tourbillon-Extra-Plat-Squelette-5395-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Breguets-Classique-Tourbillon-Extra-Plat-Squelette-5395-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Breguets-Classique-Tourbillon-Extra-Plat-Squelette-5395-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Breguets-Classique-Tourbillon-Extra-Plat-Squelette-5395-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47590" class="wp-caption-text">Breguet&#8217;s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395</figcaption></figure>
First up is Breguet, the innovative Swiss marque credited with creating the world’s first tourbillon, which recently unveiled the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. Here, the open-worked fascia acts to emphasise the super-slim 3mm-thick Calibre 581 movement powering its new self-winding tourbillon, one that is said to be 50 percent lighter than any of its predecessors. Housed in a fluted rose gold case, this wonderfully slim watch’s carriage weighs in at just 0.29g.
<figure id="attachment_47594" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47594" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47594" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Piagets-Emperador-Coussin-1270S.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Piaget's Emperador Coussin 1270S" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Piagets-Emperador-Coussin-1270S.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Piagets-Emperador-Coussin-1270S-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Piagets-Emperador-Coussin-1270S-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Piagets-Emperador-Coussin-1270S-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Piagets-Emperador-Coussin-1270S-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47594" class="wp-caption-text">Piaget&#8217;s Emperador Coussin 1270S</figcaption></figure>
Elegant super-slim design is also the stock in trade of Piaget, as exemplified by the wafer-thin skeletonised lines of its tourbillon-incorporating Emperador Coussin 1270S. Measuring just 5.05mm, its Calibre 1270S movement was custom-built to fit its cushion-shaped white gold case. Here, the skeleton dial reveals the inner workings of its motor and tourbillon, as well as an off-centre four o’clock hour-and-minute subdial.
<figure id="attachment_47593" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47593" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47593" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Jaquet-Droz’s-Grande-Seconde-Skelet-One-Red-Gold.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Jaquet-Droz’s-Grande-Seconde-Skelet-One-Red-Gold.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Jaquet-Droz’s-Grande-Seconde-Skelet-One-Red-Gold-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Jaquet-Droz’s-Grande-Seconde-Skelet-One-Red-Gold-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Jaquet-Droz’s-Grande-Seconde-Skelet-One-Red-Gold-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Jaquet-Droz’s-Grande-Seconde-Skelet-One-Red-Gold-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47593" class="wp-caption-text">Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold</figcaption></figure>
A more minimalist translucent offering comes courtesy of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold, which once again sports the brand’s classic black-on-rose-gold motif. Pride of place on its fascia goes to a smaller hour-and-minute subdial at 12 o’clock and a larger small seconds subdial at six o’clock, both of which overlap to form the brand’s iconic figure-eight emblem. Its transparent caseback, meanwhile, facilitates a fascinating view of the double barrels that house its 68-hour power reserve.
<figure id="attachment_47592" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47592" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47592" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Hublots-Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-Carbon-Blue.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Hublot's Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Hublots-Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-Carbon-Blue.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Hublots-Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-Carbon-Blue-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Hublots-Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-Carbon-Blue-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Hublots-Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-Carbon-Blue-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Hublots-Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-Carbon-Blue-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47592" class="wp-caption-text">Hublot&#8217;s Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue</figcaption></figure>
Eschewing classic contours for a more athletic approach is Hublot, with this affectation made manifest in its recently-unveiled Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue. Released in a limited edition of just 100, this aggressively-styled chronogram is the marque’s first barrel-shaped model to incorporate blue occlusioned carbon fibre. With its spacious appearance belying its intricate construction, its knowing design provides an unhindered view of its debutante HUB6020 movement. The tourbillon proper, all the while, takes place of pride at six o’clock, while a five-day power reserve indicator can be found at eight o’clock.
<figure id="attachment_47595" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47595" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47595" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Skeleton-X-Magma-by-Ulysse-Nardin.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Skeleton-X-Magma-by-Ulysse-Nardin.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Skeleton-X-Magma-by-Ulysse-Nardin-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Skeleton-X-Magma-by-Ulysse-Nardin-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Skeleton-X-Magma-by-Ulysse-Nardin-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Skeleton-X-Magma-by-Ulysse-Nardin-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47595" class="wp-caption-text">Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin</figcaption></figure>
Another bold carbon fibre creation is on offer from Ulysse Nardin in the unmistakable form of the Skeleton X Magma. Burnished in an eye-catching lava red, the process of combining carbon fibre with red, marbled epoxy resin is said to make each case quite unique. The skeleton dial here comes punctuated with a rectangle motif – anchored on the left and right by Roman numeral hour markers – through which its UN-371 movement is immediately discernible.
<figure id="attachment_47596" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47596" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47596" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Zenith’s-Defy-Inventor.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Zenith’s Defy Inventor" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Zenith’s-Defy-Inventor.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Zenith’s-Defy-Inventor-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Zenith’s-Defy-Inventor-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Zenith’s-Defy-Inventor-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Zenith’s-Defy-Inventor-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47596" class="wp-caption-text">Zenith’s Defy Inventor</figcaption></figure>
Those of an avant-garde disposition, meanwhile, should ensure they get to properly appraise Zenith’s Defy Inventor. Housed in a titanium case that incorporates a bezel fashioned from meteorite-derived Aeronith, the world’s lightest titanium-composite, the pièce de résistance of its open-work design is undoubtedly the Zenith Oscillato. A groundbreaking single silicon component, this comprises an all-in-one balance wheel, balance spring and lever, which is said to grant the movement unprecedented precision and stability. Regrettably, just 10 pieces of this cutting-edge chronogram are destined to ever see the light of day.
<figure id="attachment_47591" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47591" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-47591" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Dual-Time-Resonance-Sapphire-by-Armin-Strom.jpg" alt="Skeleton dial watches - Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Dual-Time-Resonance-Sapphire-by-Armin-Strom.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Dual-Time-Resonance-Sapphire-by-Armin-Strom-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Dual-Time-Resonance-Sapphire-by-Armin-Strom-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Dual-Time-Resonance-Sapphire-by-Armin-Strom-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Skeleton-dial-watches-Dual-Time-Resonance-Sapphire-by-Armin-Strom-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-47591" class="wp-caption-text">Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom</figcaption></figure>
Arguably, superiority in the skeleton dial stakes this time around, though, must be accorded to Armin Strom, the independent Swiss maison credited with creating the world’s first-ever such watch. Intriguingly, its latest offering – the Dual Time Resonance Sapphire – features not one but two separate movements, each tethered to a different time zone, as well as the brand’s revolutionary Resonance Clutch Spring, which connects and synchronises the two mechanisms, ensuring chronographic precision is never compromised. Complete with a 24-hour indicator at six o’clock, its outsized all-sapphire-crystal case facilitates 360-degree observation of the outré movement within – a fitting evolution of the skeleton-dial wristwatch the marque pioneered more than 40 years ago.
Text: Tenzing Thondup

Bare-faced Chic: Tracking the rise of the irresistible skeleton dial

Any contemporary haute horology enthusiast setting off for a spot of seafaring adventure is pretty much spoilt for choice when it comes to selecting the right watch to accompany them on their voyages. Indeed, whether you are looking for a current favourite, something a bit more new wave or a watch with hidden depths from established marques, you won’t be disappointed by these newest nautical timepieces.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-38577 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on.jpg" alt="New nautical timepieces to keep your eye on" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/New-nautical-timepieces-to-keep-your-eye-on-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
With its long and storied history of producing first-class sailing watches, it is only sensible to make Rolex your first port of call. In particular, it is worth seeking out one of the venerable watchmaker’s more recent additions to its nautical range – the Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II.
<figure id="attachment_38579" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38579" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38579 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Yacht-Master-II.jpg" alt="Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Yacht-Master-II.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Yacht-Master-II-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Yacht-Master-II-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Yacht-Master-II-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Yacht-Master-II-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38579" class="wp-caption-text">Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II</figcaption></figure>
From the outset, there’s no mistaking its bold maritime allegiance, grandly fore-fronted in both its ocean-blue Activated Ring Command bezel and its aquamarine small seconds dial. It even boasts the marque’s first-ever programmable countdown (complete with a mechanical memory), which neatly rings the small seconds dial.
<figure id="attachment_38582" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38582" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38582 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition.jpg" alt="Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo Edition" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/ZENITH-Defy-El-Primero-21-Porto-Cervo-Edition-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38582" class="wp-caption-text">Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo Edition</figcaption></figure>
Another standout amongst today’s nautical timepieces is Zenith’s all-new Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo. Taking its name from the beautiful North Sardinian luxury resort, this is a watch redolent with azure, translucent oceanic glory. Housed in a 44mm titanium case, it comes with a translucent white skeletonised dial and a fetching blue and white power reserve indicator. Released in a limited edition of just 25, if you don’t dive straight in, it will almost certainly be too late.
<figure id="attachment_38578" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38578" style="width: 700px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38578 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”.jpg" alt="Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Omega-Seamaster-Planet-Ocean-Deep-Black-“Volvo-Ocean-Race”-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38578" class="wp-caption-text">Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”</figcaption></figure>
Omega has embraced its inner seafarer, bestowing a distinctly rugged and ready look on its new Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”, a celebratory model marking its longstanding role as official timekeeper to the Volvo Ocean Race. Specially constructed to withstand extreme ocean conditions, it boasts stark black straps, a ceramic casebody and an arresting red rubber / Liquidmetal bezel. Black ceramic dials also highlight each watch’s unique limited edition number – as if their look wasn’t exclusive enough.
<figure id="attachment_38576" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38576" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38576 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hublot-Classic-Fusion-Chronograph-Bol-dOr-Mirabaud-2018.jpg" alt="Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol-d'Or Mirabaud 2018" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hublot-Classic-Fusion-Chronograph-Bol-dOr-Mirabaud-2018.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hublot-Classic-Fusion-Chronograph-Bol-dOr-Mirabaud-2018-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hublot-Classic-Fusion-Chronograph-Bol-dOr-Mirabaud-2018-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hublot-Classic-Fusion-Chronograph-Bol-dOr-Mirabaud-2018-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hublot-Classic-Fusion-Chronograph-Bol-dOr-Mirabaud-2018-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38576" class="wp-caption-text">Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d&#8217;Or Mirabaud 2018</figcaption></figure>
Another sporty timepiece suitable for the most macho of mariners is Hublot’s Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud 2018. Eschewing traditional gold or steel on its designer dial, the watchmaker has opted instead for a startling black carbon fibre fascia, ably counterpointed by an innovative blue rubber-carbon fibre strap design. An apt celebration of the 80th edition of the Lake Geneva-based Bol d’Or Mirabaud – the world’s largest inland lake regatta – the watch is available in a limited edition of just 80.
<figure id="attachment_38580" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38580" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38580 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Tag-Heuer-Aquaracer-Lady-Automatic-Calibre-9.jpg" alt="Tag Heuer Aquaracer Lady Automatic Calibre 9" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Tag-Heuer-Aquaracer-Lady-Automatic-Calibre-9.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Tag-Heuer-Aquaracer-Lady-Automatic-Calibre-9-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Tag-Heuer-Aquaracer-Lady-Automatic-Calibre-9-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Tag-Heuer-Aquaracer-Lady-Automatic-Calibre-9-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Tag-Heuer-Aquaracer-Lady-Automatic-Calibre-9-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38580" class="wp-caption-text">Tag Heuer Aquaracer Lady Automatic Calibre 9</figcaption></figure>
More marine-minded mademoiselles, meanwhile, may be tempted by TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer Lady. While the marque’s DNA is more than apparent in the watch’s 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel and stainless-steel straps, a touch of novelty is evident in its white SuperLuminova-coated hands and hour markers, an embellishment that sees them glow whenever submerged.
<figure id="attachment_38581" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38581" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38581 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Ulysse-Nardin-Freak-Out-of-the-Blue.jpg" alt="Ulysse Nardin Freak Out of the Blue" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Ulysse-Nardin-Freak-Out-of-the-Blue.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Ulysse-Nardin-Freak-Out-of-the-Blue-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Ulysse-Nardin-Freak-Out-of-the-Blue-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Ulysse-Nardin-Freak-Out-of-the-Blue-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Ulysse-Nardin-Freak-Out-of-the-Blue-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38581" class="wp-caption-text">Ulysse Nardin Freak Out of the Blue</figcaption></figure>
Ulysse Nardin – a brand long-known to favour the more outré approach to haute horology – may tempt avant garde explorers with its aptly-named Freak Out of the Blue. Dispensing with the traditional crown in favour of a more svelte, open-worked fascia, anchor-shaped hands and an eye-catching ‘flying carousel’ tourbillon complete its look. Lest its coastline-eschewing credential be in any doubt, it even comes with sailcloth straps as standard.
<figure id="attachment_38574" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-38574" style="width: 466px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-38574 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Corum-Admiral-45-Squelette.jpg" alt="Corum Admiral 45 Squelette" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Corum-Admiral-45-Squelette.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Corum-Admiral-45-Squelette-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Corum-Admiral-45-Squelette-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Corum-Admiral-45-Squelette-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Corum-Admiral-45-Squelette-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-38574" class="wp-caption-text">Corum Admiral 45 Squelette</figcaption></figure>
Clearly not willing to leave the singular approach to nautical timepieces entirely to Ulysses Nardin, Corum’s marine-themed Admiral 45 Squelette embraces the naked, no-dial look in the marque’s own unique style. The latest addition to the Admiral collection, a range with a half-century heritage, the turquoise, yellow or red hues that accent the varied versions of this latest model bestow upon it a distinctly playful ambience.
With the movements of time and tide inextricably bound together in the human psyche, there’s an almost primordial joy to be had in the very finest examples of haute horology that so beguilingly marry the two. Fortunately, few of the world’s finest watchmakers are immune to the allure of such a union, ensuring that precision nautical timepieces are wholly unlikely to ever sink without trace.
Text: Tenzing Thondup

Nautical Timepieces: Marine-inspired watches for the seafaring collectors

Every year, a select band of haute horology enthusiasts set off, pilgrim-style, to explore the wonders of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Geneva’s annual and highly-exclusive watch-fest.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34567 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights.jpg" alt="SIHH Highlights" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SIHH-Highlights-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Set two months before the mighty Baselworld, the January-held SIHH gives all true chronographic aficionados their first opportunity to get a sense of how the year is likely to sit in the annals of all things timepiece.
And, if the 2018 event was anything to go by, the next 12 months are set to prove vintage for all those rightly mesmerised by fine mechanical movements. Overall, a staggering number of designs, with intricacy and intrigue matched in equal parts, made their debut in Switzerland’s second city. While it would be folly to try and list all of the event’s highlights in one brief article, a few items clearly merited particular mention.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34563 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface.jpg" alt="JLC Reverso Tribute Duoface" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Resurrected, re-invented classics always receive a warm welcome at the SIHH with <a href="http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/hk/en/home-page.html">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a>’s Reverso Tribute Duoface proving no exception. Reviving the marque’s iconic flippable Reverso face – a feature that debuted back in 1931 – the new model fetchingly mounts that self-same flipping mechanism on twotoned leather straps by Casa Fagliano, the rightly-famed Argentinean bootmaker.
Its slate-grey front dial ably displays hours, minutes and seconds, while its silvered Clous de Paris guilloché back features an additional day-night indicator. With the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched into its caseback, it simply couldn’t be more of a collectors’ item.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34568 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-Deep-Dive.jpg" alt="Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-Deep-Dive.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-Deep-Dive-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-Deep-Dive-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-Deep-Dive-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-Deep-Dive-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
<a href="https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/">Ulysses Nardin</a>, too, opted to immerse itself in its own regal past, taking its Diver Deep Dive model – one of the most famous manifestations of its legendary prowess in the nautically-engineered sector – to a whole new level. Water-resistant to 1,000 metres, this high-performance timepiece makes full use of the company’s proprietary UN-230 movement, while flaunting its maritime credentials through hammerheads on its crown guard, dial counter and caseback.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34569 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale.jpg" alt="Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Ornementale" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Cabinotiers-Grand-Complication-Ornementale-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
<a href="http://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en4/home.html">Vacheron Constantin</a>, meanwhile, chose to revisit its more recent past with a comparatively swift upgrade to its 2005 masterpiece – the Tour de l’Ile. This fresh take – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication ‘Ornementale’ – is simply audacious and boasts 16 unique complications.
While its front dial – resplendent with a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and sunrise/sunset indicators – is fulsome enough, its true beauty can be found on the caseback, where a dizzying array of astronomical complications await. At its very epicenter lies a fascinating sky chart, richly encircled by season, zodiac and moon phases indices.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34562 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/A.-Lange-Sohne-1815-Tribute-to-Walter-Lange.jpg" alt="A. Lange &amp; Sohne 1815 Tribute to Walter Lange" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/A.-Lange-Sohne-1815-Tribute-to-Walter-Lange.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/A.-Lange-Sohne-1815-Tribute-to-Walter-Lange-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/A.-Lange-Sohne-1815-Tribute-to-Walter-Lange-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/A.-Lange-Sohne-1815-Tribute-to-Walter-Lange-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/A.-Lange-Sohne-1815-Tribute-to-Walter-Lange-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Despite such worthy contenders, the timepiece that truly topped the tribute list was <a href="https://www.alange-soehne.com/">A. Lange &amp; Söhne</a>’s 1815 Homage to Walter Lange. More than just a touching homage to the brand’s late chairman, it’s also a fastidious reinvention of the jumping seconds complication, an innovation first introduced more than 150 years ago.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34570 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium.jpg" alt="VCA Lady Arpels Planetarium" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/VCA-Lady-Arpels-Planetarium-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Moving from the celebratory to the more outré, this year’s SIHH featured a timely treat for watchloving women the world over in the sprightly form of <a href="https://cn.vancleefarpels.com/cn/zh.html">Van Cleef &amp; Arpels</a>’ Lady Arpels Planétarium. This diamond-studded 38mm white gold watch features miniaturised models of Mercury, Venus and the Earth, all orbiting around a centrally-set ‘sun’ in real time.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34565 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Richard-Mille-RM-53-01.jpg" alt="Richard Mille RM 53-01" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Richard-Mille-RM-53-01.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Richard-Mille-RM-53-01-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Richard-Mille-RM-53-01-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Richard-Mille-RM-53-01-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Richard-Mille-RM-53-01-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
For its part, <a href="https://www.richardmille.com/">Richard Mille</a> opted for something a little more gentlemanly, with its RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough proving an apt ode to the world of that true Sport of Kings – polo. Created in partnership with Donough, one of the sport’s finest practitioners, the RM53-01 is supremely smash-resistant and boasts a striking suspended tourbillon in its open-faced dial.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-34564 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/MBF-and-Stepan-Sarpanova-MoonMachine-2.jpg" alt="MB&amp;F and Stepan Sarpanova MoonMachine 2" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/MBF-and-Stepan-Sarpanova-MoonMachine-2.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/MBF-and-Stepan-Sarpanova-MoonMachine-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/MBF-and-Stepan-Sarpanova-MoonMachine-2-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/MBF-and-Stepan-Sarpanova-MoonMachine-2-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/MBF-and-Stepan-Sarpanova-MoonMachine-2-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Overall, though, if pushed, it would have to be conceded that the most unconventional timepiece on show came courtesy of Stepan Sarpaneva, an independent Finnish watchmaker, and <a href="https://www.mbandf.com/en">MB&amp;F</a>, one of Switzerland’s more progressive ateliers, and took the unmistakable form of the MoonMachine 2.
Acknowledged as experimental high-end watchmaking at its very best, its futuristic open-worked dial and distinctive trapezium-style bezel was only topped by its projected moon phase display, something of a first in the world of haute horology – and something that proved an apt reward for the many who found their way to the 2018 SIHH in search of something truly timeless.
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Text: Tenzing Thondup

SIHH Highlights: Our favourite timepieces from the Geneva watch fair

SIHH – one of the most prestigious events in the calendar for watchmakers – sees industry specialists and watch lovers alike troop down to Geneva each year to witness the freshest crop of timepieces. Apart from releasing new models, the event is also an effective platform for predicting the latest trends of the year.
This year was no different. But among the titans of the horology world, a few stood out for a variety of reasons. Here’s our round-up of the top five timepieces that you need to watch out for!
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-32079" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt.jpg" alt="SIHH 2018" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_ALS_424_038_B2_1640523_opt-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Triple Split by <a href="https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/">A. Lange &amp; Söhne</a>
Full credit goes to A. Lange &amp; Söhne for creating the world’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that simultaneously measures additive and comparative times for as long as twelve hours. With Triple Split, the haute horology house has outdone its previous record-holder Double Split. With precise rattrapante minute and hour counters, the Triple Split multiplies the measuring range of the rattrapante function by a factor of 24. Simply put, the Triple Split is accurate enough to compare the times of two opponents in a Formula 1 race down to the second.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-32080" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_REVERSO_JLC_396245J_STILLLIFE_2_opt.jpg" alt="SIHH 2018" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_REVERSO_JLC_396245J_STILLLIFE_2_opt.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_REVERSO_JLC_396245J_STILLLIFE_2_opt-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_REVERSO_JLC_396245J_STILLLIFE_2_opt-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_REVERSO_JLC_396245J_STILLLIFE_2_opt-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_REVERSO_JLC_396245J_STILLLIFE_2_opt-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Reverso Tribute Duoface by <a href="http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/hk/en/home-page.html">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a>
Continuing its partnership with celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a 100-piece limited-edition Reverso Tribute Duoface mounted on signature Casa Fagliano two-tone cordovan leather straps. Taking off from the Duoface concept, the watch features two contrasting dials with different time zones.
Painstaking craftsmanship marks its every aspect, from the hand-applied hour markers with Dauphine hands to the Art Deco-inspired minute track. The handcrafted leather strap, with its unique patina and finishes and the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched on its case back seal the deal for this understated masterpiece.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-32081" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_3203-500le-3_93-hammer_myst_lr_opt.jpg" alt="SIHH" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_3203-500le-3_93-hammer_myst_lr_opt.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_3203-500le-3_93-hammer_myst_lr_opt-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_3203-500le-3_93-hammer_myst_lr_opt-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_3203-500le-3_93-hammer_myst_lr_opt-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/466-x-700_3203-500le-3_93-hammer_myst_lr_opt-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Diver Deep Dive by <a href="https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/">Ulysse Nardin</a>
Ulysse Nardin carries on its love affair with the sea with the Diver Deep Dive, its most robust diving watch yet, with water resistance up to 1000 metres! Like its immediate predecessor, the Diver Deep Dive is powered by in-house calibre UN-320, featuring an escape wheel configuration and a patented silicium lever. Nautical influences are obvious in the choice of colour and design: 15 blue hammerheads swim on the dial, with a bright red one on the crown guard and another one on the dial counter. There’s even a hammerback stamped on the caseback!
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-32082" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt.jpg" alt="SIHH 2018" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_9700C-001R-B187_DUO_opt-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication ‘Ornementale’ by <a href="http://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en4/home.html">Vacheron Constantin</a>
Inspired by what was the world’s most complicated wristwatch in 2005: the famous Tour de l’Île by Vacheron Constantin, the makers have recreated their stupendous feat yet again in Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication ‘Ornementale’. Displaying 16 separate complications in a relatively miniature package, the timepiece highlights Vacheron Constantin’s tour de force in both miniaturising and engineering. The complications are mostly astronomical, and features – in addition to hour and minute counters – 11 other functions such as minute repeater, equation of time, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, etc.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-32083" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/700-x-466_vcaro8r000_lady_arpels_plan_tarium_close-up_van_cleef_arpels_johann_sauty-BD_opt-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Lady Arpels Planétarium by <a href="http://www.vancleefarpels.com/us/en/watch/sihh-2018.html">Van Cleef &amp; Arpels</a>
In keeping with Van Cleef &amp; Arpels’ elaborate creations, the Lady Arpels Planétarium – a part of the maison’s Poetic Astronomy Universe – simulates the planetary system on the limited surface of a wristwatch! Our most dazzling watch on the list, all its features, from the diamond-bedecked bezel and strap to the miniature planets made of precious stones revolving on the bright blue dial, are designed to inspire awe. But the most arresting part of the watch lies in its concept of imprecision. Devoid of hands, the watch revels in a state of perfect imprecision. While other watches seek to divide time to its minutest fraction, this one is a reminder of the enigma of time.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
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SIHH 2018: Our top five favourite watches from the prestigious watch event

<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-31733 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time.jpg" alt="Exploring the 450 watches of Masters of Time" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Exploring-the-450-watches-of-Masters-of-Time-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Duty-free retailer DFS opened its ninth Masters of Time luxury watch exhibition in Macau in extravagant fashion.&nbsp;There were interactive pop-ups, whisky and caviar tastings, and live performances by Hong Kong songstress Jade Kwan and violin DJ Olivia Dawn.
But even without the flash and panache, it’s clear that DFS has its ear to the ground, following the latest haute horlogerie trends in a bid to give high-end watch collectors exactly what they’re looking for.
Over 450 pieces from 30 luxury brands were assembled for this year’s showcase, which runs until 28 February at T Galleria by DFS inside the Shoppes at Four Seasons.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-31735 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Unique-timepieces-on-show-at-Masters-of-Time.jpg" alt="Unique timepieces on show at Masters of Time" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Unique-timepieces-on-show-at-Masters-of-Time.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Unique-timepieces-on-show-at-Masters-of-Time-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Unique-timepieces-on-show-at-Masters-of-Time-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Unique-timepieces-on-show-at-Masters-of-Time-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Unique-timepieces-on-show-at-Masters-of-Time-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
Christophe Chaix, Senior Vice President of Global Merchandising at DFS, says there is no real equivalent to Masters of Time.&nbsp;“Of course there are trade shows like Baselworld and SIHH, but there is no other exhibition like this in the world dedicated to the end consumer,” Chaix says.
His confidence is not misplaced. In just nine years, the annual exhibition has become one of Asia’s premier watch events, drawing collectors from China, Singapore, Australia and beyond.
In that time, discerning women collectors have become one of the industry’s fastest-growing segments. No longer satisfied with simple watches in frilly decorative packaging, the fairer sex is now demanding mechanical complications on par with their male counterparts. And Masters of Time has risen to the challenge.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-31728 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8.jpg" alt="4. Jacquet Droz Lady 8" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/4.-Jacquet-Droz-Lady-8-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
One of the best models from its selection of women’s watches is Jaquet Droz’s Lady 8 Flower, a perfect blend of beauty and complexity. Fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement, the design’s centrepiece is a lotus perched atop a blue sapphire-studded bezel. A press of the button opens its petals to reveal a faceted diamond briolette rotating on its axis.
Another women’s watch that may appeal to collectors is Breguet’s individually numbered and signed Tradition 7038, the first model for ladies in its Tradition collection. Although slightly on the large side at 37mm, it owes its unmistakable femininity to a diamond-set bezel, mother-of- pearl dial and white alligator leather strap.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-31729 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038.jpg" alt="5. Breguet's Tradition Dame 7038" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/5.-Tradition-Dame-7038-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
While complex timepieces for ladies are still relatively rare, Masters of Time is a horological treasure trove for the discerning male collector.
Classic craftsmanship never goes out of style, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is playing to its strengths with the Master Gyrotourbillon 1. Boasting a dual-axis tourbillon movement, this elegant timepiece also shows the date and includes a perpetual calendar and an equation of time complication. The dial’s intricate mother-of-pearl lacework and aventurine stone marquetry evoke images of a clear night sky.
Heritage watches also feature prominently at Masters of Time this year, such as Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. Paying tribute to the brand’s nautical history, the handcrafted marquetry on its pine oak dial imitates a ship’s deck, while the arching minute hand resembles a ship’s boom. Add to that a visible flying tourbillon and this 18-piece model is a guaranteed conversation starter.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-31730 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon.jpg" alt="6. Ulysse Nardin's Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon" width="700" height="466" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon.jpg 700w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon-421x280.jpg 421w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon-120x80.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon-500x333.jpg 500w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon-400x266.jpg 400w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/6.-Ulysse-Nardins-Marine-Grand-Deck-Tourbillon-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" />
Another homage timepiece is Blancpain’s limited-edition Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. The original Fifty Fathoms debuted in 1953 as the world’s first automatic diving watch, and fortunately, the current model retains that vintage vibe while still meeting modern divers’ needs with its uni-rotational bezel and water tightness indicator.
As far as contemporary timepieces go, sports watches are all the rage. In particular, partnerships between luxury car manufacturers and horology houses have spawned some interesting timepieces. Several are on show at Masters of Time, including Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Aventador S (featured in Gafencu’s November issue) and Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="aligncenter wp-image-31732 size-full" src="//www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/8-Tag-Heuer-Carrera-Calibre-Heuer-02T-Automatic-Chronograph-45MM.jpg" alt="8 Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45MM" width="466" height="700" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/8-Tag-Heuer-Carrera-Calibre-Heuer-02T-Automatic-Chronograph-45MM.jpg 466w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/8-Tag-Heuer-Carrera-Calibre-Heuer-02T-Automatic-Chronograph-45MM-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/8-Tag-Heuer-Carrera-Calibre-Heuer-02T-Automatic-Chronograph-45MM-186x280.jpg 186w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/8-Tag-Heuer-Carrera-Calibre-Heuer-02T-Automatic-Chronograph-45MM-120x180.jpg 120w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/8-Tag-Heuer-Carrera-Calibre-Heuer-02T-Automatic-Chronograph-45MM-400x601.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px" />
The true feather in DFS’ cap, though, is the special edition Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45mm from Tag Heuer. This one-of-a-kind timepiece was created especially for Masters of Time, with its hands, hour markers and strap all outfitted in the luxury retailer’s signature red.
Sadly, this watch is no longer on the market, having been snapped up by an eager collector before the exhibition even began.
With so many watches on display, it’s hard to characterise Masters of Time in a singular way. Suffice it to say, a trip to the exhibition is an illuminating lesson in the sheer diversity that exists in the world of modern watchmaking.
Text: Tenzing Thondup 
Images: DFS

Tag: ulysse nardin

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Blog Section

Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

Bare-faced Chic: Tracking the rise of the irresistible skeleton dial

Nautical Timepieces: Marine-inspired watches for the seafaring collectors

SIHH Highlights: Our favourite timepieces from the Geneva watch fair

SIHH 2018: Our top five favourite watches from the prestigious watch event

Binge Watch: Seven standouts from Macau’s Masters of Time exhibition