Every year, a select band of haute horology enthusiasts set off, pilgrim-style, to explore the wonders of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Geneva’s annual and highly-exclusive watch-fest.

Set two months before the mighty Baselworld, the January-held SIHH gives all true chronographic aficionados their first opportunity to get a sense of how the year is likely to sit in the annals of all things timepiece.

And, if the 2018 event was anything to go by, the next 12 months are set to prove vintage for all those rightly mesmerised by fine mechanical movements. Overall, a staggering number of designs, with intricacy and intrigue matched in equal parts, made their debut in Switzerland’s second city. While it would be folly to try and list all of the event’s highlights in one brief article, a few items clearly merited particular mention.

Resurrected, re-invented classics always receive a warm welcome at the SIHH with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Duoface proving no exception. Reviving the marque’s iconic flippable Reverso face – a feature that debuted back in 1931 – the new model fetchingly mounts that self-same flipping mechanism on twotoned leather straps by Casa Fagliano, the rightly-famed Argentinean bootmaker.

Its slate-grey front dial ably displays hours, minutes and seconds, while its silvered Clous de Paris guilloché back features an additional day-night indicator. With the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched into its caseback, it simply couldn’t be more of a collectors’ item.

Ulysses Nardin, too, opted to immerse itself in its own regal past, taking its Diver Deep Dive model – one of the most famous manifestations of its legendary prowess in the nautically-engineered sector – to a whole new level. Water-resistant to 1,000 metres, this high-performance timepiece makes full use of the company’s proprietary UN-230 movement, while flaunting its maritime credentials through hammerheads on its crown guard, dial counter and caseback.

Vacheron Constantin, meanwhile, chose to revisit its more recent past with a comparatively swift upgrade to its 2005 masterpiece – the Tour de l’Ile. This fresh take – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication ‘Ornementale’ – is simply audacious and boasts 16 unique complications.

While its front dial – resplendent with a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and sunrise/sunset indicators – is fulsome enough, its true beauty can be found on the caseback, where a dizzying array of astronomical complications await. At its very epicenter lies a fascinating sky chart, richly encircled by season, zodiac and moon phases indices.

Despite such worthy contenders, the timepiece that truly topped the tribute list was A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Homage to Walter Lange. More than just a touching homage to the brand’s late chairman, it’s also a fastidious reinvention of the jumping seconds complication, an innovation first introduced more than 150 years ago.

Moving from the celebratory to the more outré, this year’s SIHH featured a timely treat for watchloving women the world over in the sprightly form of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planétarium. This diamond-studded 38mm white gold watch features miniaturised models of Mercury, Venus and the Earth, all orbiting around a centrally-set ‘sun’ in real time.

For its part, Richard Mille opted for something a little more gentlemanly, with its RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough proving an apt ode to the world of that true Sport of Kings – polo. Created in partnership with Donough, one of the sport’s finest practitioners, the RM53-01 is supremely smash-resistant and boasts a striking suspended tourbillon in its open-faced dial.

Overall, though, if pushed, it would have to be conceded that the most unconventional timepiece on show came courtesy of Stepan Sarpaneva, an independent Finnish watchmaker, and MB&F, one of Switzerland’s more progressive ateliers, and took the unmistakable form of the MoonMachine 2.

Acknowledged as experimental high-end watchmaking at its very best, its futuristic open-worked dial and distinctive trapezium-style bezel was only topped by its projected moon phase display, something of a first in the world of haute horology – and something that proved an apt reward for the many who found their way to the 2018 SIHH in search of something truly timeless.

 

Text: Tenzing Thondup