It’s an open secret that Hong Kong’s discerning epicureans are partial to a perfectly cooked steak or two. In fact, this very love of indulging in a choice cut of premium beef has spawned countless carnivorously-inclined eateries across the city. There is one newcomer to this particular fine-dining niche, however, that has risen – quite literally – above its competitors.

Set atop one of Hong Kong’s most iconic and stunning destinations, the Victoria Peak, this new meat-minded culinary concept comes courtesy of The Food Story, the hospitality group behind a slew of new dining destinations, including Causeway Bay-based Wagyu Vanne and Sensu by Gosango. Its latest offering comes in the form of 37 Steakhouse & Bar, a stunning 7,000sq.ft restaurant in the recently-refurbished Peak Galleria.

The second international outpost of the eponymous Roppongi hotspot in Tokyo, this latest iteration is ably helmed by Chef Ken Kwok, a 15-year veteran of the F&B industry who simultaneously acts as executive chef for the aforementioned eateries, and whose resume includes a stint as sous chef at two Michelin-starred Wagyu Takumi under renowned Japanese chef Mitsuru Konishi.

With his latest Peak-set cuisinary, Kwok’s mission statement is to “give Hongkongers a whole new perspective on steakhouse dining”. In line with this vision, 37 Steakhouse serves up a truly staggering array of prime beef options, ranging from USDA Prime Black Angus and Korean Hanwoo selections to Belgian Prime Beef. The menu’s true star turn, though, is undoubtedly the rare Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu. Lauded in Japan as one of the finest, most marbled beef brands, it is the first time this particular offering is being served outside its borders – a fact sure to attract discerning diners in search of unique culinary experiences.

However, to assume that steaks are the only focus here would be a gross disservice to the restaurant. Indeed, even a cursory glimpse of its drinks menu reveals a treasure trove of fine wines and premium sakes, including an impressive sampling of vintages from Sawaya Matsumoto, the renowned 230-year-old Japanese brewery. Keen emphasis has also been placed on its design, with its interiors – developed by award-winning Japanese architect Yasumichi Morita – featuring contemporary wood-dominant tones, replete with floor-to-ceiling windows that show off its picturesque views to perfection.

Returning to the food front, Kwok’s menu reveals a deftly balanced approach, with lighter seafood-fronted servings getting as much attention as its beef-centric offerings. Indeed, our own tasting experience began with the wafer-thin Italian Red Prawn Carpaccio. Succulent and fresh, the creaminess of the Sicilian red prawns was heightened by the added crunch of the fresh radishes and lettuce leaves adorning it.

Next up was the Hand Cut Steak Tartare with Hollandaise, subtly sauced to highlight the palate-pleasing textures of the raw beef, which itself was a wellblended amalgam of the fattier chuck roll and leaner top blade. Enhancing its appeal even further was the side serving of a cheese crisp, topped with dollops of chopped raw onions, pickles and a heap of luxurious caviar. Each pairing offered a different note to every bite savoured.

Then the true crowd-pleasers arrived tableside – a series of the restaurant’s signature steaks, including a Belgian Prime Beef Dry Aged Steak striploin and the long-awaited Hiyama A5 Wagyu chuck roll. The former offered more condensed carnivorous textures, while the latter boasted marbled melt-in-the-mouth flavours. With each prime cut cooked to medium-rare perfection in a state-of-the-art Spanish Josper charcoal grill and further enhanced with a choice of five separate sauces, every meaty morsel was inhaled in short order.

With our belts straining at the waist, we were hard-pressed to find space for the concluding dish that hoved into view. Thankfully finding that last bit of appetite, however, we then dug into the creamy goodness that was 37’s Tiramisu. Here, Chef Kwok once again showed his innate ability to manipulate traditional flavours with his own contemporary flair, with this deconstructed interpretation of the classic Italian dessert featuring mochi-like bites that gave this otherwise-creamy sweet dish a new dimension of mouth-feel.

Throughout our tasting, the chef impressed us with his impeccable understanding of just the right balance of flavours, allowing his key ingredients – be it seafood or steak – to shine brightest without fail. And that, in itself, is the essence of the enduring appeal of 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

37 Steakhouse & Bar. Shop 102-103, 1/Fl, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd, The Peak. (852) 2885 3320.