North Star: A fusion of history and contemporary mastery, Hutong’s hero dishes lead gourmets to heavenly highs

By Joseff Musa
Oct 04, 2024

Hutong is not just a restaurant; it’s a vibrant canvas where the rich tapestry of Northern Chinese cuisine comes to life. Step into this exquisite dining venue and the elegant décor inspired by the traditional hutongs of Beijing envelops you in an atmosphere that feels both contemporary and steeped in history. 


A sensational four-hands collaboration recently united colleagues and culinary virtuosos Cheung Yung-keung, Head Chef of Hutong Hong Kong, and Ren Dingxu, Head Chef of Hutong Dubai, with each bringing their extensive expertise and deep-rooted passion for the cuisines of two distinct Chinese regions. “I sought to capture the essence of Shanghainese cuisine, which is known for its rich, savoury flavours and meticulous preparation,” shares Chef Cheung about his inspiration for the collaboration. “These dishes are my homage to the culinary traditions of Shanghai, brought to life through the lens of contemporary dining.”


A symphony of flavours began with an exquisite tea-smoked pigeon, a dish that pays homage to Shanghai’s culinary traditions. Tender squab is braised and delicately smoked with Biluochun tea leaves and fragrant roses from Jiangsu. The first bite was a revelation; the subtle smokiness danced on the palate, leaving a sophisticated aftertaste that lingered, enticing the senses for what lies ahead.


Next to arrive, the dim-sum platter was a feast for both the eyes and the palate. This trio featured a lobster dumpling, where sweet lobster meets a hint of spicy seafood essence; a peach gum mushroom dumpling, inspired by ancient Chinese medicinal texts; and a wagyu beef green chilli dumpling, combining premium wagyu with the fiery kick of Sichuan’s tiger-skin peppers. Each piece is a testament to the chefs’ dedication to quality and innovation.


Honouring tradition with a modern twist, the evening continued with the braised fillet of eel with bean sprouts and dark soy sauce. Here, a secret dark soy sauce recipe enhances the fish, resulting in a dish that epitomises tenderness and richness. The contrast of lightly stir-fried bean sprouts adds a fresh crunch, creating a harmonious balance that celebrates traditional Shanghai flavours.


Following this was Sichuan-style Chilean sea bass with bamboo shoots, providing a modern twist on classic preparations. Grilled to perfection, the fish is enveloped in a vibrant homemade jiao mao sauce, with the bamboo shoots contributing a refreshing texture that elevates the dish. The culinary journey took a bold turn with the spicy suckling pig with kung po sauce, a delightful nod to Shanghai’s braised pork. For this dish, pulled pork belly infused with Hutong’s signature chilli oil is paired with crispy suckling pig skin, creating a delightful contrast of textures and a symphony of spicy savouriness that tantalises the taste buds.


Another showstopper dish, Spanish red prawns with crispy rice in seafood broth, reflected the luxurious nature of this special menu. Prawns bathed in a rich, lobster-infused broth are complemented by crispy rice, providing a captivating crunch that enhances the seafood’s natural sweetness. The pièce de résistance was undoubtedly flaming wagyu beef char siu. A5 wagyu chuck ribs flambéed with rose liqueur and rum and accompanied by shiny Muscat grapes and kumquat create a dramatic presentation that is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The rich, tender beef paired with the sweet, tangy fruit delivers a flavour explosion that is unforgettable.


“These dishes are my tribute to the dynamic culinary heritage of my native Sichuan,” says the visiting Chef Ren.


As a sweet conclusion, the Golden Fortune dessert is a symbol of prosperity and celebration. Inspired by the lychee varieties of Lingshan County in Guangxi, this refreshing finale features lychee purée, ginger sorbet and lemongrass. It was an aromatic end to an extraordinary meal, with the optional wine and sake pairings further enhancing each dish.


Whether you are a connoisseur of Chinese food or a curious newcomer, Chef Cheung orchestrates an unforgettable culinary journey nightly at Hutong in Hong Kong. 


Hutong, 18/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui



Photos: Hutong Hong Kong   Video: Jack Fontanilla