Argentina has regained its position as one of the world’s premier winemaking regions. The practice initially developed in the 19th century, fuelled by the skills and knowhow of wine-loving immigrants from Spain and Italy. In 2023 Argentina ranked as the eighth-largest wine producer globally.  

Most of the viticulture lies in the western expanse of the country, in the foothills of Andes. It is the pours from the northwest of this vast South American country that particularly appeal to Constanza Cabello, Wine Development Manager in Hong Kong of 67 Pall Mall, which operates private members’ clubs for wine lovers in various locations throughout the world. “My favourite wine regions of Argentina are found in the north,” she says. “Valles Calchaquies, Quebrada de Humahuaca and Valles Templados – the wines from this area are, in my opinion, terroir wines.”

High respect

Here, in the provinces of Catamarca, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy, are some of the world’s highest-planted vineyards. Those in the Calchaqui Valleys, the most prolific of the north’s wine regions, soar  in altitude from 1,500 to 3,100 metres.

A number of factors drives the essence of the wines produced in the northern highlands. “What really determines the style of wine are the high-altitude vineyards, the poor soils with different kinds of minerals, and the number of sunny days – around 300 per year in the case of Cafayate [in Salta],” says Cabello. “However, without doubt the human factor is the most important,” she opines, referring to the many years of human capital accrued in a knowledge bank of the finer techniques of winemaking. 

Indeed, in Cabello’s eyes, the social aspect of this northern corner of Argentina is the overriding element nurturing the quality of its wines. It contributes significantly to the excellence demonstrated in the art of viticulture while harnessing its cultural life in general. “I believe this region is the essence of Argentina, the last living cultural spot that we have, that can show who we are, and where we came from,” she stresses of her homeland.

Criolla of the wild

The seasoned wine professional spotlights the leading varietals grown up high, including Malbec and some Tannat, as well as the white Torrontés, one of the Criolla group of native Argentinian grapes. She points to an increasing number of single-variety Criolla wine emerging from the area in recent years.

“One of my favourite producers is Francisco Puga y Familia, a small winery owned by ‘Paco’ Puga, a renowned winemaker in the region,” shares Cabello. “He holds a small vineyard in Tolombón, south of Cafayate [in the Calchaqui Valleys] and is full of passion and love for his terroir.”

She praises the Francisco Puga y Familia Corte de Blancas ‘Viejos Parrales’, a blend of Torrontés, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc from old pergola vineyards, explaining that Torrontés is a very aromatic grape which infuses this wine with notes of white flowers and fresh white grapes. “It is something to try and give a chance to the white wines coming from Argentina!” she enthuses.

Her other go-to winery is Bodegas El Bayeh, located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley. The family-run enterprise is devoted to crafting small batches of landscape wines reflecting the ravine’s terroir. Respecting the environment to achieve wines of purity and expression, they practise sustainable viticulture through the growth of healthy grapes, natural fermentation and minimal intervention in the winemaking process. 

Finding the plot

“El Bayeh Pequeños Parceleros de la Quebrada is a single-region Criolla from different villages within the Quebrada de Humahuaca,” notes Cabello. These are old-vine Criollas, planted more than 100 years ago and cultivated by local villagers on plots of varying altitudes.

“Criolla enters the category of light-body fresh wines, something not generally associated with Argentinian production at the moment,” she reveals. “This is a local grape variety of fresh fruit infused with mineral notes and fresh acidity” able to express the minerality of the diverse soils found in the northern reaches of the country.