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<p>China has produced wine from grapes for centuries, and in recent years the vast country has become one of the world’s largest consumers of wine. The fruits of each winemaking region have their own distinct characteristics, and many local wineries have developed strong ties with overseas viticulturalists.</p>



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<p>Master of Wine Fongyee Walker, co-founder of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting and a specialist wine educator, can attest to the fact that many regions in China are crafting great wine.</p>



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<p>Walker singles out three notable regions producing wines of character: Shandong for their gentle quality shaped by a maritime climate; Shangri- La in northwest Yunnan for the magnificent scenery and the freshness and vibrancy of its wines; and Xinjiang because of the vivacity of the culture “and the wonderful food that goes so well with the rich wines from that desert sun”.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Elegant Shandong</h3>



<p>Winemaking in Shandong centres around Yantai on the northwest coast of the peninsula. “Shandong produces lovely wine,” says Walker. “The granite soils and the sea breezes coming off the bay allow so much of its coastal region to produce elegant wines.”</p>



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<p>As a white-wine lover – “though not necessarily typical wines” – she is particularly fond of the gentle Chardonnays emanating from there, while the elegant Cabernet Francs with hints of leafiness also appeal. She notes: “It’s all about elegance, a refreshingness brought by that maritime acidity.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Yunnan fruit</h3>



<p>The mountain vineyards in Shangri-La reach as high as 3,000 metres, creating huge diurnal variation and giving the wines vibrant acidity and a pureness to their fruit. “That diurnal swing, those cold nights with very sunny days high up in the mountains, bring refreshing but ripe flavours,” she says.</p>



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<p>Shangri-La reds excite the palate: “They produce really gorgeous Cabernets with a depth of fruit and a really refreshing mouthfeel,” she notes, adding: “Their Pinot Noir is a potential great star.” And speaking of her favourite whites: “Their Chardonnays are different from the Shandong style, and they offer a vibrancy of pure orchard fruit.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Xinjiang riches</h3>



<p>As for Xinjiang, Walker believes the desert landscape and crystal-clear sunshine have a profound effect on the quality of the wine produced, noting there is a warmth and beautiful roundness and richness in the wines there. “It’s hot, but this means that the red wines are full of fruit, and they have this wonderful, healthy fruitiness to them with beautiful tannins,” she says.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="683" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-1024x683.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-81149" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-420x280.jpg 420w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Wine-Pairing-Dinner-at-Chef-Tams-Seasons-4_clip-800x533.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p>When China-based Walker travels to Xinjiang, she looks forward to pouring these rich reds, particularly the Syrah-Merlot blend. “It is so full of fruit and wonderful with the roast lamb of the area.” She is also partial to an Italian Riesling-style wine infused with green tea, which she describes as “a unique and favourite wine of mine. It has an aroma of jasmine flowers exploding.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Perfect pairing</h3>



<p>When planning a visit to Ningxia in north-central China, another key wine-growing area, she thinks of their beautiful Marselan grapes and how well these wines go with roasted Tan Yang lamb. The local Tan species of lamb is, she opines, “one of the most delicious lambs of the world. What a perfect match!”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Grape achievements</h3>



<p>Walker was on the distinguished panel of judges including three Masters of Wine and three Master Sommeliers at the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards held in Macau last month. Significantly, the event gives valuable feedback to those who don’t win trophies. “It provides a roadmap for producers all across China with different styles of wine – how to go forward, how to improve and bring their wine to new levels of quality,” she says.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Winners revealed!</h3>



<p>Following the rigorous judging process, Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 was honoured with the coveted Best Wine of China Trophy. Its exceptional quality also earned it the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia. Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021 won two trophies, including Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 received the Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China titles.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Chinese Wine Month</h3>



<p>Wynn is set to host ‘Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Month’ promotion in May, a celebration of Chinese wine excellence with a symphony of global gastronomy. Throughout the month, guests can experience specially curated wine pairing tasting menus at Wynn’s prestigious dining venues, including Chef Tam’s Seasons, Lakeview Palace, SW Steakhouse and Mizumi at Wynn Palace as well as Golden Flower, Wing Lei, Lakeside Trattoria and Mizumi at Wynn Macau.</p>



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<p>For a casual alternative, visitors can also participate in tasting flights featuring the prizewinning wines at Wynn’s various bars, including Palace Reserve Club, Cinnebar, Bar Cristal and Wing Lei Bar.</p>


Great Wine of China: Chinese producers are winning over the world with their vibrant pours


<p>The island of Sicily has become one of the most important wine-growing regions of Italy. It is the country’s largest in terms of planting with some 98,000 hectares under vine. A total of 4.8 million inhabitants make it the most populous island in the Mediterranean Sea.</p>



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<p>It is known throughout the world as the home of Mount Etna, one of Europe’s most active volcanoes – whose soils happen to be ideal for the growth of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio (both red) and Carricante (white) grapes. Indeed, Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties are now widely appreciated by connoisseurs, who decades ago would only look to the island for Marsala, its famous fortified wine.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Island of extremes</h3>



<p>“If you had to sum up Sicily in just a few words, it’s an island of extremes,” says Italian wine specialist Keti Mazzi, founder of Certa Wine Club. “Rocky volcanic coastlines give way to white sandy beaches. Crumbling architectural treasures of the ancient world sit next to some of the most theatrical and perfectly preserved paintings of the Baroque. It’s a cliché, but in Sicily, there’s truly something for everyone.”</p>


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<p>Already a top-tier wine region in Italy, a country which itself is the largest producer of wine in the world, Sicily is poised for a new phase of expansion, believes Mazzi, as wine enthusiasts look for new territories and unexpected flavours.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Volcanic boost</h3>



<p>Its fertile soil is primarily the result of an ongoing series of volcanic eruptions, and this, coupled with a pleasant climate, means it is perfect for making wine. Mazzi notes: “A true microcosm of Italy, Sicily can be described as a ‘viticultural continent’. Sicily is a continent for wine!”</p>



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<p>Today, Sicily is primarily recognised for its Nero d’Avola and Grillo grapes, two local red and white varietals respectively that thrive across the diverse soils and growing conditions of the island.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Creamy white</h3>



<p>Grillo had been used exclusively to produce Marsala in the past – in northwestern Sicily, an area granted Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status – but now stars in some of Sicily’s most recognisable labels. “It delivers a refreshing, fragrant white wine with aromas of tropical fruit and a rich, creamy structure,” says Mazzi.</p>



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<p>She says the Nero d’Avola grape variety is similar in style to Syrah: “It is Sicily’s most prolific red grape and produces a medium-bodied elegant wine with red fruit flavours, notes of pepper and a nice acidity.” Other common grape varieties on the island include Catarratto, Inzolia (both white) and Frappato (red).</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Red beauty</h3>



<p>Having spent several wonderful years in Sicily, the island is close to Mazzi’s heart and she is fond of many of its wines. Her ultimate tipple from the region, though, is Rosso del Conte, a flagship red from eighth-generation producer Conti Tasca d’Almerita in the central highlands. Its grapes originate from San Lucio, the first ‘grande vigna’ (large vineyard) created on the Tenuta Regaleali estate in 1959.</p>



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<p>Mazzi loves the aromas emanating from this Sicilian beauty, indicating it retains a certain subtleness to its offering. She says: “On the aromatic level, Rosso del Conte never exaggerates in overripe notes while guaranteeing full phenolic ripeness.”</p>


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<p>She believes the wine is a faithful expression of its terroir, recalling the high hills in the heart of Sicily, while a special signature appeal is that two grape varieties, Perricone and Nero d’Avola – which have a similar vegetative root – coexist.</p>



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<p>Mazzi admires how the wine develops over time. “It is exuberant, vibrant and energetic in its youth, and with ageing develops a velvety touch without losing structure and flavour,” she says.</p>


Super Sicilian: Springing from vineyards aplenty, Sicily’s splendid indigenous grapes are setting the wine world alight


<p>Located on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, Hawke’s Bay has garnered a world-class reputation for the quality of its wines.</p>



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<p>Famed for its fruity, earthy reds and full- bodied Chardonnays, Hawke’s Bay is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine-producing regions and its second-largest.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Viticulture vitality</h3>



<p>“Summers are typically dry and warm and are followed by long autumns and relatively mild winters. This results in lengthy and consistent growing seasons, which are vital to viticultural excellence,” says Daniel Cheung, a freelance consultant in the food &amp; beverage industry.</p>



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<p>This benign weather system underscored by numerous geologically-young soil types enriched by centuries of volcanic activity contributes to one of the wine world’s most versatile areas. “The region makes an impressive array of wines, most notably Rhône- and Bordeaux-style reds that have good ageing potential,” notes Cheung.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Top draws</h3>



<p>Cheung finds Hawke’s Bay particularly intriguing as it offers something different aside from the “star export of crisp, flinty Sauvignon Blanc”.</p>



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<p>Powerful, aromatic expressions of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are particularly highly regarded. “Equally remarkable are full-bodied and robust Chardonnays that have lots of ageing potential, says Cheung.”</p>


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<p>Cheung has become fascinated by how Hawke’s Bay’s vignerons make the most out of a region underpinned by a coastal influence, while also dealing with the complex mesoclimates of a varied topography.</p>



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<p>“They’ve always had a focus on quality and diversity, along with a rich history of winemaking innovations. Producers there know the importance of employing sustainable viticultural practices,” he says, also noting the region’s world-class aspirations.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Great Gravels</h3>



<p>He believes the wines have a unique spirit to them that is uplifting. “A perfect example would be the incredible tale of the subregion known as Gimblett Gravels – 600 hectares in size, with a soil structure that is stony, with a distinctive minerality and a fine, dusty character,” he says.</p>


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<p>“Though the area wasn’t used for growing vines until the early 1990s – it was saved by the rejection of a mining application – it has since quickly risen to prominence for producing rich yet elegantly structured red wines that rank among the finest in the world.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Superior Syrah</h3>



<p>Cheung has a particular fondness for two wines emanating from the region. First up is Le Sol 2019 from Craggy Range, which was awarded New Zealand’s Winery of the Year 2023 by the prestigious The Real Review. “This is a top- notch 100% Syrah that’s now an icon wine of the Gimblett Gravels subregion,” he says.</p>



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<p>Describing the tastes and aromas of one of his favourite tipples, he identifies its “dark, fruity nose with a good amount of focus and peppery warmth. Rounded and generous on the palate with a great long finish, this is a seductive Syrah.”</p>
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Crisp Chardonnay</h3>



<p>Produced by the pioneering Brajkovich family, Kumeu River’s Rays Road Chardonnay 2020 is another Hawke’s Bay favourite of Cheung. He enthuses of this cellar-worthy wine: “Crisp and mineral-forward, this single vineyard Chardonnay is crafted in a Burgundian style. The citrusy bouquet complements its refined linear character, all of which culminate in a reverberant finish.”</p>


Hawke’s High: The lowland and coastal hills of New Zealand’s second largest wine region offer Bordeaux-style pleasures


<p>The Langhe, located in northwest Italy, is a hilly area that has attained international recognition for its deeply embedded and longstanding winemaking culture. It is a key part of the Piedmont region, which is officially designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site. In the Langhe, two of the world’s pre-eminent red wines, namely Barolo and Barbaresco, are made purely from the native grape of Nebbiolo.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Red heaven</h3>



<p>Matteo Ascheri is president of the Consortium for the Protection of Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani, an organisation which helped secure DOC status for Barolo and Barbaresco in 1966, and then, in 1980, their elevation to DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), Italy’s highest classification of wines.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sip of royalty</h3>



<p>Hailed as ‘The King of Wines and the Wine of Kings’ some 175 years ago, Barolo is a grand wine with the noblest of histories. “It was sipped in the courts of Europe,” says Ascheri. “It is now made in 11 communes in the vicinity of Barolo village and is enjoyed the world over for its glorious dark red appearance and its fruity and spicy power.”</p>


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<p>He likens these aromas and tastes that “develop over a long, captivating finish” to “red berries, cherries in liqueur and jam; roses and violets; and cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg and vanilla. Occasionally liquorice, cocoa, tobacco and leather can be discerned on the nose and palate, too.”</p>



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<p>Barolo producers must age their wine for a minimum of three years before bottling. To qualify as Barolo Riserva, it has to be aged for at least five years. “The pride of many collectors’ cellars, Barolo is a prized wine that benefits from long ageing, with 10 or 20 years considered the norm,” notes Ascheri.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Fruits and florals</h3>



<p>Barbaresco arose in the pretty village of that name about 50 years later. Domizio Cavazza, a Barbaresco native and the first head of the Enology School of Alba, organised a collective of growers in 1894 to make wine solely from the Nebbiolo grape. “Barbaresco lures wine lovers with a stimulating bouquet of fruits and florals – including raspberries, red-berry jam, geraniums and violets – as well as hints of green pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, hay wood, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla and even aniseed,” says Ascheri.</p>



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<p>“It must be aged for two years in oak before bottling and earns the title of ‘Riserva’ after four years. The wines are at their smoothest and most nuanced when aged from five to 10 years, though the best vintages can lie for longer.”</p>
</div><figure class="wp-block-media-text__media"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="683" height="1024" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-683x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-80090 size-full" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-187x280.jpg 187w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-1366x2048.jpg 1366w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Barbaresco-DOCG-2019-Cortese-Giuseppe_p-scaled.jpg 1707w" sizes="(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px" /></figure></div>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Vintage appeal</h3>



<p>Ascheri points out that bottles of both these wines from superior vintages are often purchased to be cellared and treasured as valuable collectibles. Connoisseurs seeking more tangible delights will be tempted to open them on special occasions, though. “Barolo and Barbaresco are natural accompaniments to rich, hearty dishes like braised meat, aged cheese and truffles – another of the Langhe’s great gastronomic gifts to the world,” he says. He is a strong advocate of their sublime qualities, stating: “Befitting their classification as premier, age-worthy red wines, the robust, full-bodied Barolo, redolent with dark fruit, earth and spice, and the elegant, red-fruited and floral Barbaresco make unique gifts to be laid down and enjoyed at their prime.”</p>


Langhe Lasting: The noble Italian winemaking area where age-worthy reds rule


<p>Southwest France has a long winemaking tradition with ancient grape varieties that predate the Romans. Stretching out from the foothills of the Pyrenees, the broad area of two administrative regions – Occitania and Nouvelle-Aquitaine – has a varied landscape and a wide range of highly specific vineyards and winemaking.</p>



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<p>The mosaic of vineyards in the South West France wine region produces sparkling, white, rosé and red wines, all with different profile characteristics, according to Nicolas Eyquem, Head Sommelier at Black Sheep Restaurants.</p>


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<p>Eyquem adores the natural beauty of the Sud-Ouest and delights in the diversity of wines in the region from appellations that are generally less well known like Irouléguy in the Northern Basque Country, Gaillac. Monbazillac, Cahors and Madiran and Fronton.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Franckly drinking</h3>



<p>Eyquem is particularly fond of the wines from Franck Lihour. Lihour makes wine in the Jurançon appellation, located between the Pyrenees and the ocean. The estate covers 55 hectares with meadows, woods, cereal crops and 12 hectares of certified organic vineyards.</p>



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<p>“Franck made the choice to isolate the plots of vines to produce single-vineyard wine – one dry, one sweet and three plots yielding his Caubeigt, Memòria and Tauzy wines. These are made with native grapes such as Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and reintegrated Petit Courbu and Camaralet in the blends,” says Eyquem.</p>



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<p>He also applauds Lihour’s winemaking vision, using native yeast and adding a few sulphites only at bottling to keep the purity and the tension of the wines.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Pyrenees pleasure</h3>



<p>Highlighting the talent and versatility of Sud- Ouest winemakers, Eyquem describes the tastes and aromas of some of his favourite wines from vineyards spread across the region.</p>


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<p>First up is Pyrénées-Atlantiques wines, which are produced inland from Biarritz in the foothills of the mountain range. “The dry white wines from Irouléguy, Jurançon and Béarn are lively, vibrant and aromatic with exotic citrus and apricot flavours,” he says.</p>



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<p>Moving on to the south of the Dordogne wine region, he favours “the red wines from Madiran, made with the Tannat grape, and Cahors from Malbec. They are dark in colour, robust, sometimes rustic, and concentrated, with black fruit dominant and a touch of spice.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Gaillac sparkle</h3>



<p>At Gaillac, a commune in the Tarn department, a méthode-ancestrale sparkling wine is made with the Mauzac grape. “The result is a semi-sparkling style of wine with a touch of sweetness, combined with dried apple-peel flavours,” says Eyquem.</p>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/how-to-hold-a-wine-glass-red-and-white-wine-red-wine-white-wine_shutterstock_f706cc50-568c-4770-b27e-f40470b47a24.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-79618" width="737" height="415" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/how-to-hold-a-wine-glass-red-and-white-wine-red-wine-white-wine_shutterstock_f706cc50-568c-4770-b27e-f40470b47a24.jpg 737w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/how-to-hold-a-wine-glass-red-and-white-wine-red-wine-white-wine_shutterstock_f706cc50-568c-4770-b27e-f40470b47a24-497x280.jpg 497w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/how-to-hold-a-wine-glass-red-and-white-wine-red-wine-white-wine_shutterstock_f706cc50-568c-4770-b27e-f40470b47a24-200x113.jpg 200w" sizes="(max-width: 737px) 100vw, 737px" /></figure></div>


<p>According to the sommelier, Marcillac made from the unique Fer Servadou grape is the most famous wine from the patchwork of small appellations in Aveyron in the Massif Central. “It’s a lovely light red, juicy and peppery.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Bergerac delights</h3>



<p>He then highlights the sweet-wine appellations of Bergerac, “Using Bordeaux [grape] varieties, Monbazillac, Saussignac and Rosette are generating botrytized wines that are mellow with candied apricot, vanilla and honey flavours,” he says. He heartily recommends these wines, which are proudly offered on his wine list.</p>


Mouth by South West: A patchwork of hidden vineyards in the French Sud-Ouest offers a rich range of wines


<p>Regarded as the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Tuscany is steeped in culture and boasts a beautiful landscape and climate that is ideal for making wine. With a strong regional identity, the capital is the magnificent Florence, while other fantastic places in this tourist haven include Pisa with its leaning tower, Siena, Lucca and Grosseto. With a long-established winemaking tradition, famous wines in Tuscany include the Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Chianti and Morellino di Scansano reds and the white Vernaccia di San Gimignano.</p>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-1024x683.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-78325" width="768" height="512" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-420x280.jpg 420w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-200x133.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/image-800x533.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /></figure></div>


<p>Tuscany is a very hilly region, with elevated land constituting about two-thirds of the total area, much of which is used for agriculture. The western shoreline touches the Ligurian and the Tyrrhenian seas. It has a fairly mild climate, though further inland there are greater fluctuations in temperature and it can be very rainy at times, which has helped to develop fertile soil.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Magical landscapes</h3>



<p>David Reali, who works for Italian food and wine importer Certa, hails his Tuscan homeland as his favourite wine region. He says: “It is named for the pre-Roman Etruscan inhabitants, and has magical inland and shore landscapes with amazing sandy or rocky beaches, mountains, hills and flat areas.”</p>


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<p>He recalls fondly the area’s outdoors lifestyle, with locals relaxing over good food and wine, and explains why Tuscany, being packed with cultural attractions, draws so many tourists. “The weather is what I love most about my native region. Plus, the history of Tuscany, especially Florence; my city is called la Culla del Rinascimento [the cradle of the Renaissance].”</p>



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<p>As Reali points out, winemaking is a world with infinite variants determined by soil, climate and vinification. Tuscany is a stellar Italian wine area for a variety of reasons. “It is a region with a temperate climate that has significant differences between areas, including variations in soil and various landscapes, which is really suitable for grapes,” he says.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Top crop</h3>



<p>He highlights the topography as an important factor. “In Tuscany, 67% of the region is hilly, 25% mountainous and 8% flat. Numerous precipitations, mostly concentrated in spring and autumn, are perfect for the vineyards, although it is starting to be a challenge considering the world climate change.”</p>


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<p>The proud Tuscan outlines the region’s wine crop. “The main red wines in Tuscany are Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, while white wines produced here are Trebbiano, Vermentino and Vernaccia.” The native Sangiovese grape – one of the 10 most planted grapes in the world – is the singular star of Brunello di Montalcino and the main component of Chianti Classico and Nobile di Montepulciano, three top wines to which Reali is particularly partial.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sensational Sangiovese</h3>



<p>Describing the tastes and aromas of his favourite wines from Tuscany, he elaborates: “The main characteristics of Sangiovese are red and black cherry, liquorice, black tea and nuances of violet aromas. If aged, it can offer aromas of leather, undergrowth and tobacco. It is typically dry with chalky tannins.”</p>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-1024x406.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-78320" width="768" height="305" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-1024x406.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-650x258.jpg 650w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-768x305.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-1536x609.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-2048x813.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-200x79.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/LE_0856-800x317.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /></figure></div>


<p>The region’s famed Super Tuscans, which first emerged in Chianti in the 1970s, embrace non-indigenous grapes, often boldly blending Sangiovese with international varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah to create complex and highly structured wines.</p>


Exultantly Tuscan: Hilly terroir, plentiful rain and super wines characterise the beautiful Italian region


<p>Perhaps a little surprisingly given its far-flung New World location, Chile has a long history of making wine. Production dates from the 16th century with the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, while further developments in the mid-19th century saw the introduction of French wine varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carménère and Cabernet Franc.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Fantastic fourth</h3>



<p>The 1980s saw a growth in the industry with improved fermentation techniques and the South American country is now firmly established on the winemaking map, with recent figures placing it as the world’s fourth-largest exporter of wine. Falling between the latitudes of 32°S and 38°S, the vineyards of Chile have been defined into several distinct regions since December 1994. Coquimbo in the north and the Central Valley areas of Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua are considered among the best.</p>


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<p>Limarí Valley, a sub-region of Coquimbo, is one of Bernice Liu’s favourite wine regions. The Hong Kong actress, winemaker and Wine Maven platform entrepreneur (winemaven.io) clearly adores the quality of the viticulture emanating from the area. “This region is a pretty cool place for wines,” she enthuses. “It is where my Chardonnay comes from!” She makes Lunoria and Vartiere Chardonnay in collaboration with Pagnel winery.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Chardonnay hooray</h3>



<p>The main wines produced in the region are Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Liu believes the location has some distinct advantages for certain wines, stating: “Limarí Valley is one of the most prized areas for Chardonnay in Chile, with great soil and climate conditions. With it having a sea-to-soil likeness, fresher whites are able to be produced here.”</p>



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<p>She cites Concha y Toro winery as an example of a famous producer of lovely white wines in the valley.</p>


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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Roots and routes</h3>



<p>Chile also has historical advantages that have cemented its winemaking tradition. As Liu points out, it was not affected by the phylloxera louse. Feeding on the roots and leaves of grapevines, these insects destroyed much of the wines worldwide in the late 19th century.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Mineral shine</h3>



<p>There is good minerality in a soil that tends to be made of clay, silt and chalk in Limarí Valley. Due to a relatively moderate amount of rainfall, the vines on these mineral-rich soils are fed with drip irrigation, and this combination creates fresh wines with a notable mineral edge, a quality noted by Liu when describing her favourite wine from the region.</p>


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<p>“Naturally, my Lunoria and Vartiere Chardonnays are my favourites,” she says. “I love medium-bodied whites, with good natural acidity. With moderate amounts of clay soil, minerality shines through, and makes them a great food pairing wine, especially with Asian cuisine and the varied flavours from dish to dish.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Aromatic show</h3>



<p>“The aromas and taste of these wines have hints of floral, vanilla, ripe stoned fruit and a bit of oak to ease the acidity. Minerality from the clay soil is also present,” she adds, again referring to the mineral edge in the wines of this region.</p>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-1024x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-77804" width="768" height="768" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-280x280.jpg 280w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-768x768.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-200x200.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-800x800.jpg 800w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/win3-100x100.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /></figure></div>


<p>“The best part is that though they are served cold, the glass can be left to stand and the aromatics really start to show.”</p>


Cool Chilean: Saluting the bright, mineral South American west coast whites born in mineral-rich soils


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<p>It was perhaps a “somewhat undercover” wine-appreciation society started by Robert Sleigh and a schoolfriend that heralded an illustrious career spanning the idyllic vineyards of France, the hurly-burly of New York, and now the international melting pot of Hong Kong.</p>



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<p>Aptly ensconced in smart new headquarters at WKCDA Tower in Hong Kong’s cultural hub, the Managing Director, Asia, of Phillips talks fondly of those early years. Sleigh’s brief now extends beyond the world’s finest bottles as he oversees the regional strategy of the historic auction house known for its 20th-century and contemporary art and luxury sales.</p>



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<p>The Briton’s early passion for wine steered him into a driving job in London with wine merchant Haynes, Hanson &amp; Clark. Crucially, the role allowed him to take his Wine &amp; Spirit Education Trust (WSET) exams, as at the time only those employed in the trade could sit them. Then, as the UK economy stagnated in the early ’90s recession, he sought broader experience that would differentiate him from the crowd. Meeting some Burgundy producers at a wine-tasting event, he promptly asked if he could work for them.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Burgundy benefits</h3>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-683x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-77332" width="512" height="768" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-187x280.jpg 187w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK2967_p-scaled.jpg 1707w" sizes="(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px" /></figure></div>


<p>Sleigh found himself at a small domain in Beaune where the grapes were handpicked from its own vineyard and the wine crafted and bottled onsite. “I did one viticultural year in a way; it was vineyard work and cellar work, and when I first got there, they were still pruning the vines,” he recalls.</p>



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<p>The labour was rewarding and he learnt the essentials of vinification. “Winemaking is 90% cleaning,” he says with a smile. “It is cleaning everything spotless so that you do not get bacteria in the wine and it all turns to vinegar.”</p>



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<p>He spent three years in France and is now an unashamed Francophile who would happily drink only French wine. His second job in Burgundy was at Maison Louis Latour, a leading négociant-éleveur with many English-speaking buyers. He liaised with clients and assisted with customer service and marketing.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">US points</h3>



<p>It was this experience that likely helped Sleigh secure a “career-defining” move to the US, where in 1996 he joined the wine department of Sotheby’s auction house in New York. Aside from demand for the cult wines of Napa Valley, he noted other distinct differences in the US wine market compared to Europe. “The Americans are very much led by critic scores; the likes of Robert Parker at the time, who exerted a very powerful influence. They are buying on the 100-point scoring system,” he says.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Hong Kong hub</h3>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-683x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-77331" width="512" height="768" srcset="https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-187x280.jpg 187w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Hi_ACK3032_p-scaled.jpg 1707w" sizes="(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px" /></figure></div>


<p>He was called to Asia in 2010 to manage the huge demand in the Hong Kong wine auction sector following the reduction and then elimination of tax on wine in the territory. </p>



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<p>With the West still reeling from the 2007-2008 Global Financial Crisis, coupled with the pent-up demand for Western luxury goods from Chinese consumers with huge disposable incomes, this “perfect storm” propelled Hong Kong into the wine hub of Asia.</p>



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<p>“The wine market has never seen anything like it and probably never will again,” says Sleigh, relating how prices took off and Hong Kong became the most important market within 18 months. “Just the amount of stimulus that happened then – it was an extraordinary time.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Auction house</h3>



<p>After more than 25 years at Sotheby’s, Sleigh assumed his new position with Phillips at the start of the year, tasked with a broader role in the art and luxury sector. Asian-based clients clinch about a third of Phillips’ sales, and he believes their new Asia headquarters with a purpose-built exhibition space – the largest premises of any auction house in Hong Kong – increases their visibility and power in the Asian market. “Being the first auction house to have our own permanent galleries and auction room leaves no doubt about how committed Phillips is to Asia,” he stresses.</p>



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<p>This site, occupying the lower six floors of WKCDA Tower near the M+ museum and the Hong Kong Palace Museum, has definite advantages. “The possibilities that this location holds for Phillips are endless, especially as the West Kowloon Cultural District continues to expand and thrive,” he says. “We are excited to be at the heart of it and play an active role in its evolution.”</p>



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<p>Early indications suggest the move to West Kowloon will be a successful one. Phillips’ 20th Century &amp; Contemporary Art exhibition in March and April, as well as previews of watch and jewellery lots, attracted 30,000 visitors, and their inaugural evening sale there yielded notable results – Yoshitomo Nara’s Lookin&#8217; for a Treasure sold for HK$84 million, and Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkin fetched HK$56 million.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Asian ascendency</h3>


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<p>According to Sleigh, the art world once operated in two separate ecosystems – East and West – but Hong Kong is now part of a unified global market, with a huge collecting base that extends from Asia to all parts of the world and vice-versa. He talks of a transformation of the playing field: “It now comes as no surprise that the highest-value lot in our long history – a masterwork by Jean-Michel Basquiat – came from the collection of Yusaku Maezawa and was sold to another collector based in Asia for US$85 million.”</p>



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<p>Since arriving at Phillips, Sleigh has noted a much younger clientele viewing contemporary art, 20th-century art, design, photographs and watches compared to those interested in wine. He is excited by how collecting is becoming integral to the Asian lifestyle – with many people travelling to the art fairs in Taipei, Tokyo, Seoul and Singapore – and sees huge growth potential and less of a weight of tradition in the art market here.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sales drivers</h3>



<p>Eternally fascinated by the cycle of the auction industry, Sleigh has conducted literally hundreds of sales during his career. He believes the auction ritual remains “a compelling call to action” for unique and valuable items and will always play a role when there is competition for a desirable collectible. There are those who say that all auctioneers are frustrated actors, and though Sleigh remains unconvinced by this characterisation, he concedes he has known some who like “being there in front of the world!”</p>



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<p>He describes how having fallen asleep on a plane whilst watching the documentary The Truffle Hunters, he woke with a start, possibly due to hearing his own voice eerily on the headphones. It transpired that the director had taken an excerpt from a recording of a truffle auction for charity he performs every year.</p>



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<p>Indeed, charity is close to his heart. He is regularly involved in charity auctions and his wife, Libby Alexander, is the co-founder and CEO of Splash Foundation, which provides swimming lessons to those in need. “We are lucky we live in Hong Kong and we are very fortunate in many ways,” he says. “There are a lot of people who are less fortunate, so I think it is important [to give back].”</p>



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<p>Interview by: Neil Dolby Photographer: Jack Law Art Direction: Joseff Musa Fashion Stylist: Jhoshwa Ledesma Videographer:Jack Fontanilla Hair &amp; Make Up: Owen Ko Venue: Phillips Asia HQ in West Kowloon</p>


Sure Hammer: Having been around the auction block for 27 years, Robert Sleigh now drives Philips forward in Asia


<p>Burgundy is one of the most prosperous regions of France, rich in culture, history and gastronomical delights. It is home to world-renowned wines that have soared in price and desirability over recent decades and particularly in the past two years. Pinot Noir (for reds) and Chardonnay (for whites) are the main grape varieties, though others are permitted.</p>



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<p>The Bourgogne area comprises a patchwork quilt of myriad different terroirs, appellations and styles. According to George Lacey, Director and Head of Wine at Sotheby’s, Asia, this complexity previously put off consumers whose drinking experiences could be so variable from one producer or village to the next – but times have changed. “Collectors turned to Burgundy seeking elegance, finesse, a sense of individuality and precision, and discovered that the region could provide ethereal wines that show the epitome of these characteristics in spades,” he says.</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Scarcity value</h3>



<p>The vast range of styles and expressions is down to the great number of small, family-owned domaines, producing microscopic quantities of wine from very low-yielding vines.</p>



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<p>As Lacey explains, this small supply then drives up the scarcity value of its wines and has caused a rapid ascent in prices of Burgundy wine. He notes: “As with so many luxury commodities, the harder Burgundy has become to find, the more people want to find it!”</p>



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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Sense of place</h3>



<p>Lacey says Burgundy has been at the forefront of winemaking innovation and experimentation and historic producers are located almost side by side with some of today’s most boundary-pushing, next-generation experimental vignerons. He believes Burgundy has the perfect climatic conditions for the ‘capricious’ Pinot Noir grape to flourish. Chardonnay, on the other hand, is much easier to grow. Expressing itself in an enormous range of styles, this varietal is an incredible vector for the romantic notion of ‘terroir’, or a ‘sense of place’.</p>


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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Fantastic individuality</h3>



<p>Picking a favourite wine is almost impossible for Lacey. “To generalise, the reds are often characterised by beautifully bright, fresh red fruit and floral aromas becoming more savoury as they age with softer, dried petal and ‘sousbois’ [undergrowth] flavours coming to the fore. For the whites, Chardonnay expresses a huge variety of styles within the region from rich, unctuous, nutty and buttery Meursault to steely, mineral and linear Chablis, and everything in between,” he says</p>



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<p>“If I had to choose a favourite, then for whites it would be majestic examples of mature 20-year-plus Raveneau Les Clos or Coche-Dury’s Meursault – some of the greatest examples of Chardonnay in the world. For reds, it would have to be the great Musigny vineyard from either Domaine Mugnier or Leroy. These encounters are becoming ever rarer, but I have had some of my most magical drinking experiences with them – not just for Burgundy but any wine worldwide.”</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Compelling paradox</h3>



<p>“For me, what makes the very best Burgundy so magical is their ability to become what we call ‘paradox wines’,” says Lacey. “They have an ability to express both weightlessness and intensity, power and elegance, complexity and finesse.”</p>


Beautiful Burgundy: Showing both complexity and finesse, Bourgogne wines are among the world’s most coveted


<p>Alsace in northeastern France has been officially recognised as an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) wine region since 1962. It is home to the famous 170km Alsace Wine Route, a tourist hotspot that winds its way through the Vosges foothills and the Rhine plain, past colourful towns and villages and vineyards of Riesling and Gerwürztraminer. Alsace is noted for its dry and aromatic white wines, with these two grapes yielding many of its best.</p>



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<p>Tristan Pommier, an expert sommelier who curates Clarence’s wine program, a restaurant in Central, says. “Alsace boasts a very dynamic and thriving wine scene that is renowned for its wide range of grape varietals, grand cru wines and terroir expressions,” he says.</p>



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<p>Pommier spotlights several young Alsace winemakers who are now making their mark, in addition to established winemaking families with a long history in the region. The latter, including Zind Humbrecht, Valentin Zusslin and Josmeyer, can be found on Clarence’s wine list. Up-and-coming estates La Rogerie and La Grange de l’Oncle Charles are definitely worth a try and can also be poured at the restaurant.</p>



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<p><strong>Grand Cru diversity</strong></p>



<p>Pommier believes Alsace has become one of the key winemaking regions in France due to its diverse array of grand cru wines. There are 51 vineyards classified as grand crus for their quality terroir and winemaking.</p>



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<p>“In addition, Alsace offers a range of winemaking styles, from traditional to biodynamic, which allows for a wide variety of flavour profiles and wine types,” notes Pommier.</p>



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<p>The dessert wines of Alsace, particularly the sweet ‘Vendange tardive’ or late-harvest wines, are highly regarded by connoisseurs. “One of the most unique aspects of Alsace’s winemaking industry is its production of sweet wines,” concurs Pommier. “Due to the semi-continental climate and great variety of soil types in Alsace, these wines have the remarkable ability to age gracefully over time, often improving in flavour and complexity as they mature.”</p>



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<p><strong>Youthful sensitivity</strong></p>



<p>Clarence recently held a promotion of the region’s delights. “We thought it would be interesting to showcase the talents of promising young winemakers, such as the owners of La Grange de l’Oncle Charles, a couple who manage a 5.5-hectare vineyard that is co-planted with old, middle-aged and young vines that are regularly replaced to ensure they thrive in a diverse range of soils,” says Pommier.</p>



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<p>Pommier also suggests why the wine is so appealing. “The winemakers take a sensitive approach to their craft, carefully considering the fruits, vines and ecosystem to produce elegant wines that possess their own unique subtle touch,” he says.</p>



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<p>The tastes and aromas of these wines leave their mark: “One example is La Grange de l’Oncle Charles Mille Lieux, which is a blend of all 13 white grape varieties grown on various soils at the Domaine. After being fermented and aged for one year in barrels on lees, this wine is characterised by its lovely ripe stone fruit aromas, intense concentration and acidity, and a touch of salinity at the end of the palate.”</p>



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Tag: wine