Rooted in community and arising from crisis, the Cheung Chau Bun Festival is one of Hong Kong’s most unique and vibrant cultural celebrations. Held annually on the island of Cheung Chau, this Taoist fiesta is steeped in centuries-old traditions, spiritual symbolism and a fascinating origin story that blends folklore with historical adversity.

The bun festival traces back to the late Qing dynasty when Cheung Chau was a modest fishing village often beset with piracy and disease. According to local legend, a devastating plague swept through the island in 1777. Desperate for relief, the Hailufeng people, who had settled here from Guangdong, invoked the protection of Pak Tai, the Taoist deity associated with the sea and natural disasters. They brought a statue of the god to the island and paraded it through the streets in a ritual meant to exorcise evil spirits and restore peace.

Miraculously, the plague subsided. In gratitude, the villagers began holding annual ceremonies to honour Pak Tai, which evolved into the elaborate festival we see today. Over time, the spectacle also absorbed elements from other Chinese folk traditions, including rituals to appease wandering spirits and protect the island from future misfortunes.

Sacrifice for Peace

Cheung Chau’s famous bun scramble up a bamboo tower is part of a broader Taoist celebration known as the Da Jiu Festival, or Tai Ping Ching Chiu in Cantonese, which translates to the ‘Purest Sacrifice for Great Peace’. These festivals are held in various rural communities across southern China and Hong Kong, often to mark the end of a calamity or to seek divine blessings for peace and prosperity.

In Cheung Chau, the Da Jiu Festival spans several days in the fourth month of the Lunar Calendar – typically early May – and includes a series of religious rites, processions and performances. Central to the celebration is the construction of a temporary bamboo shrine near the island’s Pak Tai Temple. Offerings are made and rituals performed to honour the gods and drive away malevolent forces.

Pure of Body

One of the most distinctive features of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival is the observance of vegetarianism. For three days during the festival, the entire island abstains from meat. Locals snack on put chai ko, a steamed pudding cake sold by street vendors, and eschew the seafood splurges for which the island is known. Vegetarian options like lo bak go, or turnip cake, replace the usual street-food delights of fish balls and har gow (shrimp dumplings). Even fast-food chains like McDonald’s adapt by serving mushroom rather than meat burgers.

This practice is rooted in Taoist beliefs about purification and spiritual harmony. By adopting a vegetarian diet, participants symbolically cleanse themselves and the community, creating a more auspicious environment for the gods to bless.

Another food favourite are the steamed buns that give the festival its catchy name. Every year, tens of thousands of sweet buns filled with lotus seed, red bean paste or sesame are made. Seen as offerings that will placate angry spirits, they are stamped with the Chinese characters for ‘ping an’, meaning peace.

Children of the Gods

Among the most iconic spectacles of the festival is the Piu Sik, or Floating Colours Parade, when children dressed as mythological figures, historical heroes and modern icons are hoisted onto hidden platforms, giving the illusion that they are floating through the air. These ‘living deities’ are paraded through the streets in a vibrant procession accompanied by lion dances, drumming troupes and costumed performers.

The parade is both a spiritual ritual and a community celebration. It reenacts the original procession of Pak Tai that saved the island, while also showcasing the creativity and cultural pride of Cheung Chau’s residents.

Scramble for Success

The festival’s most thrilling event is the bun-snatching competition, held at midnight on the final day. Traditionally, three towering bamboo structures, each about 60-feet-tall, were erected and covered with thousands of white steamed buns. Competitors raced to climb the towers and grab as many buns as possible, with those at the top considered the most auspicious.

Historically, the buns were believed to bring good luck and protection. The higher the bun, the greater the fortune. However, the competition was suspended for decades after the customary frenzied scramble to the top caused the structure to collapse in 1978, injuring some 100 people.

By popular demand, the tradition was revived in 2005 with enhanced safety measures, and it remains a highlight of the festival. For the past 20 years, a limited number of experienced climbers have scaled a single steel-reinforced bamboo tower to snatch what are now plastic buns rather than the fragrant treats of yesteryear.

Warrior Worship

Pak Tai, the Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven, is the central figure of the festival and the patron deity of Cheung Chau. The Pak Tai temple, built in 1783, is one of the oldest and most important religious sites on the island. During the festival, it becomes the spiritual heart of the celebration, drawing worshippers from across Hong Kong and beyond.

Revered for his power to vanquish evil and restore order, Pak Tai is often depicted as a warrior god standing on a tortoise and serpent – symbols of evil he has conquered. His presence in the festival underscores the themes of protection, purification and renewal that define the event.

Weaving Past and Present

The Cheung Chau Bun Festival is more than just a religious observance; it is a living testament to Hong Kong’s intangible cultural heritage. In 2011, it was officially inscribed on the city’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list in recognition of its historical, artistic and communal value.

The festival also serves as a powerful symbol of local identity. Despite the rapid modernisation of Hong Kong, Cheung Chau has preserved its traditions with remarkable fidelity. The festival draws tens of thousands of visitors each year, including tourists, scholars and cultural enthusiasts eager to witness its unique blend of spirituality and spectacle.

In recent years, the Cheung Chau Bun Festival has gained international attention, featuring in travel documentaries, cultural exhibitions and academic studies. Its colourful visuals and dramatic rituals make it a favourite subject for photographers and filmmakers.

Scaling Modern Change

However, the festival also faces challenges. The increasing commercialisation of the event has raised concerns about its authenticity. Some locals worry that the spiritual essence of the festival is being overshadowed by tourism and media hype. Additionally, environmental concerns have prompted calls for more sustainable practices, such as reducing waste from bun packaging and parade materials.

Despite these challenges, the annual Cheung Chau Bun Festival remains a vibrant and evolving tradition. It continues to serve its original purpose, bringing the community together in a shared act of remembrance, gratitude and hope.

From its humble beginnings as a plague-averting ritual to its current status as a cultural landmark, the festival embodies the resilience and creativity of the Cheung Chau people. It is a celebration of life, a tribute to the divine, and a reminder that even in the face of adversity, communities can find strength in tradition.