Palate Playground: Modern Indian wonderland Leela is joyfully rooted in the flavours of a vast culinary heritage 

By Joseff Musa
Dec 05, 2024

The name Leela stems from the Hindu concept of ‘divine play’, and what better way to embody that than with a menu that dances between the ancient and the avant-garde? Chef Manav Tuli, an Indian gastronomy virtuoso, helms the kitchen with infectious passion and an innovative approach to traditional recipes. Each dish is a vibrant palette of colours and spices, telling its own story while being anchored in India’s rich culinary heritage.


As the seasons change, so too does the menu, unveiling a slew of new creations crafted to tantalise the taste buds while paying homage to regional Indian inspirations. One standout is jackfruit and soya keema dabeli, an imaginative reinterpretation of a beloved street food from Gujarat that, with its tangy tamarind chutney and luscious caramelised onions, conjures the all-consuming sensation of strolling through the bustling markets of India.


“My approach has always been to present food authentically while incorporating Ayurvedic principles and local ingredients,” explains Chef Tuli. “I believe in preserving the soul of Indian cuisine by honouring our roots while giving individual ingredients the attention they deserve through optimal cooking methods. This process is ever-evolving and represents an exciting journey for any chef.”


A collaboration between Tuli – formerly of Chaat – and Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, Leela opened late last year and already has awards in the bag, including the prestigious Michelin Recommended Restaurant accolade. The modern Indian oasis is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for foodies and culture-seekers alike.


If it’s culinary nostalgia you crave, look no further than the chef’s chicken tikka kulcha. This delightful dish fuses juicy grilled chicken with pillowy Indian flatbread, accompanied by marinated onions and an animated mint and tomato chutney. Chicken tikka mirza hasnu pays tribute to the court of Asaf-ud-Daulah, inviting anyone to savour char-grilled chicken infused with a symphony of spices such as cloves, cardamom and smoky mango powder.


For seafood enthusiasts, tandoori squid emerges as a masterpiece, showcasing tandoor-charred U3 squid marinated in Kashmiri chilli. And if anyone considers lamb a monotonous affair, they’ll have to think again. Kandhari lamb chop morphs into a succulent delight with ginger juice and pomegranate marrying the rich flavours of Afghanistan’s Kandahar region.


Diners can also indulge in duck jardaloo, a Parsi classic reimagined with duck breast, soaked in the divine sweetness of dried apricots, or savour the communal spirit of the chaat platter, a delicious array of tangy Indian snacks that traces its roots back to the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. But beyond just tantalising flavours, it champions sustainability. Chef Tuli ensures that the ingredients are local and fresh, embodying the ethos of using seasonal produce to minimise environmental impact while delivering peak flavour. Lotus root and edamame pulao is just one example of this commitment, using locally sourced ingredients like lotus and edamame in a refreshing medley that speaks both to the land and the palate.


“I aspire for guests to leave with a sense of discovery connected to Indian cuisine’s essence – experiencing its depth of flavours and cultural significance through each dish telling a story rooted in my culinary journey across India’s diverse traditions,” he notes. “Dining at Leela should be more than just a meal; it should be an exploration of Indian culinary heritage that fosters connection and curiosity about what Indian cuisine offers beyond typical expectations.”


The dining escapism at Leela is not just about feeding the body, but nourishing the spirit with each delightful bite. It’s more than a meal; it’s an experience that connects you to the heart and soul of Indian cuisine – a vibrant montage of spices, history and joy. Whether you’re a connoisseur of Indian flavours or a curious newcomer, the culinary playground at Leela promises to captivate your senses. Gather your friends and jump into this immersive Indian feast that celebrates food, culture and the art of communal dining like no other.


LEELA, Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong