To find Nove, you have to be in the know. Hidden in a narrow alley in Central, without an English name on the shop front, this newly-opened noshery – perhaps deliberately – recreates the atmosphere of a secretly-tucked-away Chinese kitchen.

The feeling only intensifies upon entering. It’s like being transported straight into Shanghai of yesteryears. With mosaic floors, Chinese lanterns and ink paintings all being an intrinsic part of the decor, every nook and corner promises an authentic Chinese gourmet experience.

And the menu doesn’t disappoint either. But the culinary team at Nove doesn’t just stop with recreating traditional dishes – indeed, executive chefs Wong Yiu Por and Poon Kwai Chung have some unique tricks up their sleeves. This sees such popular dishes as the xiao long bao undergoing a makeover with the addition of lobster bisque. The result is soft juicy dumplings rendered even more delicious by the mild seafood-flavoured broth.

Another dish that caught our fancy was the baked abalone and cheese tart. While Hongkongers love their egg tarts, this savoury take on the popular street food won our heart with its simplicity and skillful execution. While the cheese complements the abalone perfectly, it doesn’t overwhelm the seafood’s unique taste, creating a perfectly harmonious appetiser.

Of the mains, the sliced goose and marinated hard-boiled egg is a Chiu Chow-style delicacy – a stellar example of Chef Poon Kwai Chung’s expertise in Chiu Chow-style marinated dishes. With the egg complementing the poultry, it’s the spicy, pungent sauce that ties the whole dish together and has you reaching out for seconds.

At Nove, the portions are quite right-sized, and the best part about that is you can order an assortment of items – from traditional pig trotters to experimental seafood and kimchi dumplings. One thing’s sure, though… whatever, you try at Nove, chances are you won’t be disappointed!

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay