Alone man sits before the Trevi Fountain with his newspaper, an empty espresso cup on the cool stone by his side, the rush of water almost a roar in the early quiet of the morning. The sky is already turning an almost impossible shade of blue and sunlight slants across Rome’s crowded roofs, sliding noiselessly along the narrow cobbled streets. Hordes of tourists throng the square day and night, throwing coins into the water in the hopes of returning to the Eternal City. But now, at dawn, the scene is peaceful and timeless; the ideal place from which to start your Roman holiday.

Rome was certainly not built in a day, and strolling through the city is a journey back in time. It was one of the few major European cities to escape the Second World War relatively unscathed, and although thoroughly modern and cosmopolitan, central Rome remains essentially Renaissance and Baroque in character with a good dose of antiquity thrown in. The sheer quantity of ornate buildings, impressive statues and prancing horses that decorate the fountains are a constant reminder of the thousands of years of history crystallised in the city.

The historic centre, or Centro Storico, is small enough to explore on foot and is listed by Unesco as a World Heritage Site. It contains more than 900 churches, countless palazzi, or palaces, some beautiful green spaces, the Italian Parliament, and many of Rome’s most famous monuments including the Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum and the Pantheon.

But the Centro Storico is not just an historic theme park. Aside from its architectural highlights, the area is also the living, pulsing heart of the city. It boasts thousands of workshops, trendy bars and fabulous restaurants and is home to a multitude of animated Romans who laugh with, and sometimes at, the tourists. After an early start at the Trevi Fountain, a stop for breakfast at a people-watching café should be next on your agenda.

Grand Piazzas

No matter how Rome’s streets twist and turn they always finally open onto a piazza grand or quaint. Usually located near an important building or three, these are inevitably gathering places, with outdoor cafés and restaurants ready to meet your needs, whether for a quick pick-me-up, or a lingering meal for two. Italians typically start their day with a sweet cornetto (pastry) and an espresso that is strong enough to blast your eyes wide open.

An amble westward from the Trevi Fountain will take you down the Via delle Muratte, and this enchanting lane is lined with traditional trattorias that are jam-packed in the evening with red-and-white checkered tables and an amiable crowd. It’s quiet in the morning but at night it bustles with stalls. At the Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, take a break and order a caffè corto robusto, a strong single espresso, at the charming Ciampini Roma.

Just around the corner you’ll find the Piazza della Rotonda with its graceful central fountain and the chatter of cafés. Here, standing beneath the massive dome of the Pantheon with sunlight spilling through the hole in the top, you cannot help but marvel at the skill which created something so awe-inspiring that has withstood centuries of change without losing any of its brilliance.

Afternoon in the Forum

The Colosseum, to the southeast through the spectacular Michelangelo-designed Piazza del Campidoglio and the remains of the ancient Roman Forum, is equally breathtaking, although its ruined state brings home its great age with even more impact. As you wander round the Colosseum’s walls, you can almost hear the cheering of bloodthirsty crowds, the roars of enraged beasts, and the harsh cries of fighting gladiators echoing within. Yet a passeggiata, or evening stroll, through the subtly lit Forum reveals a more romantic view of the great structure, glowing from within.

Sightseeing is thirsty work and by midday you’ll deserve a drink and a fine meal before spending an afternoon at the magnificent Castel Sant’Angelo, or the glorious St Peter’s Square, or perhaps the Catacombs of Priscilla, or even practising the ancient Roman art of pampering at Aquamadre, a traditional Hellenic-Roman hammam. Whatever your afternoon plans you are going to need lunch so find yourself an enoteca, or wine bar, such as Cul de Sac on Piazza di Pasquino and sample some of Italy’s finest wines with a selection of antipasti. Or perhaps a carb-loading session of delectable handmade pasta is more in order if you are considering the Vatican’s inevitable queues.

Foodie Forays

For chic nighttime dining with the city’s più elegante, head for the Piazza del Popolo and one of Rome’s most famous eateries, Dal Bolognese. Alternatively, the streets around the Pantheon and the ineffably grand Piazza Navona in the centre of old Rome are crammed with fantastic bars and enoteche. Get away from the tourist hotspots and you can find some genuine dining gems. Between Piazza Navona and the Tiber river you’ll find narrow alleyways overhung with blooming window boxes, scooters parked nose-to-nose with Fiats, and the restaurants of your dreams. The ivy-clad romancer Il Bacaro should be close to the top of your dinner ‘to do’ list.

You will not want to miss the pickings at Campo de’ Fiori either. This is Rome’s colourful daily food market, open 7am to 2pm, and over the river is the bohemian neighbourhood of Trastevere, which is possibly the most laidback area for evening dining in Rome. Even the ubiquitous graffiti somehow adds to the area’s charm and arty vibe, and the chances are you will end up party to a wedding at the Basilica of Santa Maria, one of the oldest churches in Rome.

Roofs with a View

Watching the sun set over the city is also a pleasure not to be missed, and the view from the top of the Spanish Steps in Rome’s glitzy shopping district will take your breath away. Bar hop from there to Sky Blu rooftop at the Aleph hotel, to Seen by Olivier at the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi hotel, and to Roof Garden at the Bio Hotel Raphaël, and the view will leave you completely breathless. Or take a pine-scented stroll from Trastevere up to the Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi to enjoy 360-degree views of the city bathed in the glow of day’s last light and build up a good appetite before heading to a rooftop showstopper restaurant such as Gigi Rigolatto Roma at the Orient Express La Minerva hotel.

Rome’s nightlife is still as Bacchanalian as any in Ancient Rome with venues like Jackie O’ and Hulala serving as a home from home till the early hours. But you’ll probably want to end the night tucked up in your hotel room, especially if you are staying in one of Rome’s finest boutique properties like the Dante-esque Aleph, or for sheer exclusivity and consummate style, you can’t beat a suite at the Ferragamo family-owned Portrait Roma.

Wherever you are staying, so much of a holiday in Rome is about absorbing its atmosphere, interacting with its people and savouring its cuisine. While certain sights can’t be missed, enjoy a Roman afternoon just contemplating life over a bowl of icy gelato in some quiet corner, or shopping for a pair of leather gloves with Italy’s fashionable finest.

More than a short stay is required to truly appreciate this city, for Rome is vibrant and real. As the Italians say, “Roma – non basta una vita!” A lifetime is not certainly enough to experience this city’s glories.