Typically, izakayas – Japan’s singular take on the more informal form of hostelry – are seen as smoky, rowdy drinking dens, places where the food takes a back seat to the serious business of boozing. Many, however, now boast more of a 21st century ethos, something that one intrepid Hong Kong restaurant is looking to capitalise on by offering a vibrant range of delicious and delicate Nipponese dishes. The establishment in question of course, is Silencio, one of the best-kept secrets on the sixth floor of Central’s LKF Tower.

Having first opened its doors two years ago, it is now under new management in the form of recently-arrived Executive Chef Sato Kiyoshi, a Japanese-born culinary whizz who earnt his spurs with stints in Australia, London, Singapore as well as back in his homeland. Acknowledging the impact his international experiences have had on his personal style, he says: “Thankfully, I had the opportunity to work under some true masters, and I think their passion for experimenting with flavours and improvising with ingredients made a strong impression on me. Their creative spirit and culinary flair is something I strive to recreate for all the diners who come to Silencio.”

Eager to see this philosophy in action, we began our tasting with a beautifully plated amuse bouche – Seasonal Otoshi. Here, set atop a bed of seaweed, could be found three spherical raw seafood bites with scallop and multiple cuts of tuna. The former was, undoubtedly, the most unusual of these and came with green apple and topped with a subtle apple dashi jelly as a refreshingly tangy palate cleanser.

Then it was on to the first appetiser – Tuna Trio. As the name suggests, this take on nigiri sushi saw three cuts of tuna – a sliver each of a lean akami, a medium-fat chutoro and a fatty otoro – layered atop each other on a bed of rice. A deft balancing act, each mouthful allowed for comprehensive appreciation for the myriad flavours of this much-coveted fish dish. A dash of soy sauce the sole accompaniment, it imparted delightful umami notes to each biteful.

Staying with the cold course motif, next to arrive was the Aki – Pomard beef tartare topped with medallions of pear and radish, all served with an intriguing black rice cracker. A veritable study in textures, the subtle meatiness of the beef was, in turn, enhanced with the sweetness of the pear and juiciness of the radish, with the accompanying creamy hollandaise sauce imparting a touch of richness to proceedings.
Then, with more than a hint of flourish, Chef Sato served up the most visually stunning plate of the session – Sakura. Taking its cue from the eponymous flower that is so well loved by the Japanese, the dish featured flowering petals of pink, purple and white radish, all laid upon squared cubes of tuna. Underpinning this was a unique sauce, comprising nori seaweed oil and a paste reduced from last year’s crushed cherry blossom petals. Undeniably tart, this ceviche-esque dish once again showcased the chef’s indisputable knack for integrating strong flavours into surprisingly nuanced plates.

The final savoury course then took its turn on the table in the form of Wagyu, a decadent steak dish featuring perfectly-cooked slivers of medium-rare beef presented amid a white garlic cream and a dense black garlic jus. Brimming with rich umami flavours, the dual garlic sauces nevertheless allowed the melt-in-your-mouth morsels of beef to shine through, with the accompanying chives and makomotake – a type of fungal root – bringing an added layer of crunchiness.

To round off our tasting, Chef Sato once again dipped into the rich cuisine-related traditions of his homeland serving up the distinctly snowy winter-themed dessert, Hokkaido. Startlingly monochromatic, this all-white treat forefronted brown butter ice cream atop a Hokkaido milk cream base, all topped with crunchy dehydrated milk crackers. Comprising a veritable torrent of textures, this deliciously creamy concoction once again showcased the chef’s signature style pairing visually arresting plating with a riot of flavours. All, of course, balanced to perfection.