Born on the slopes of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti provinces in Piedmont, north-western Italy, the wines of Alta Langa have fizzed into prominence in recent years. The Alta Langa Metodo Classico DOCG, created in 2011, is a relative newcomer in the region and the first to make quality sparkling wines from the ‘Champagne grapes’ of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the traditional method popularised by the great French houses.

Erika Abate, Export Manager of Enrico Serafino, a fine producer of Alta Langa sparkling wines as well as the renowned Piedmont reds of Barolo and Barbaresco, has spent her whole adult life sampling the area’s vinicultural delights. She says the wines here exude an elegant character with a certain “over-the-top potential” that is best appreciated by a discerning palate. The hillside soils in this higher part of the Langhe wine region also allow the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes to express their full potential.

“The Alta Langa is the only area where sparkling wine production has a minimum elevation of 250 metres above sea level, 30 months’ minimum ageing on lees and mandatory vintage on the label,” she notes, referring to the defining characteristics of this fast-rising bubbly and the shortest time it must be left in contact with leftover yeast sediment prior to secondary fermentation.

Perfect pedoclimate

Abate points out that grape varieties with exceptional potential need perfect conditions in which to grow. “The two varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, have adapted so well in some areas of Piedmont, testifying to the fact that this is exceptional land not only for red wines but also for sparkling wines,” she says.

In the pursuit of excellence in the Alta Langa appellation, the soil-exposure-altitude mix that creates a vineyard’s pedoclimate must be studied carefully. Analysis of soils that can be difficult to cultivate and optimisation of the region’s unique climatic conditions are essential to get the best results from the Pinot Noir grape – a process often requiring specific experience and expertise in the Méthode Traditionelle. “Each stage of the ‘method’ offers opportunities but also great risks,” she notes.

Seabed sediment

She explains that soil origin is key to winemaking success in the wider Piedmont region. “The sedimentary soil of the Langhe originates from the Ligurian-Piedmontese Tertiary Basin that was created from the collision of the European and African plates,” she reveals, indicating that sediments can now be found which developed on the seabed between 12 and five million years ago during the Miocene era.

“Over this time, the sea and the basin conditions changed dramatically and these changes are visible in the rock layers and the various geological formations. The presence of fish fossils and planktonic microorganisms, visible because of shifting soils, shows the richness of life and gave birth to its natural treasures.”

Varietal character

The main wines produced in Piedmont are the Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera reds, along with some extraordinary whites such as Gavi and Arneis, and sparkling Alta Langa. “My favourite wines are from the Alta Langa, Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Gavi appellations,” shares Abate. “I love the Alta Langa for their elegance, crispy acidity and the freshness that these wines can maintain over the years.”

The uniqueness of pours derived from numerous grapes also appeals. “I love Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cortese because these are very terroir-sensitive grapes with a pleasant acidity and minerality, and a unique personality giving harmony to the other elements.”

Abate praises the skilled winemakers in her favourite appellations for coaxing the best qualities from the soil and grapes. “They are bringing out varietal character of these grapes with an extraordinary longevity and tannins that are typical indicators of age ability. Moreover, they are great wines to be paired with food and always give a sense of place whenever you are,” she enthuses.