An African jewel, Nairobi acts as a magnet for those wishing to find first-class cosmopolitan creature comforts as well as wild beasts in all their marvellous nobility in the city’s national park. Indeed, the Kenyan capital’s attractions have mushroomed over the years to include great restaurants and nightlife, world-class museums and historic buildings, and a fantastic range of things to see and do.

Serving as an important economic, financial and transportation hub, the fast-growing city is the most populous is East Africa and its 5.5 million souls bring a vibrancy to the local cultural scene. Named by the Maasai as a place of cool waters, its diversity and myriad pleasures leave visitors yearning to return and sample them once more. Weather-wise, it is a congenial destination, with June through to September among the driest months and when Nairobi National Park is at its best.

Trees and Towers

Welcoming settlers from all over Africa, Asia, Europe and North America, Nairobi is a melting pot as befits a major commercial centre. In the central district, a towering skyline rises above a soothing backdrop of trees, beautiful gardens and shaded avenues. Many of trees are not native to Kenya and were planted by city administrators keen to nurture an urban oasis from dusty, humble origins. However, indigenous forest preserved within City Park, just north of downtown, adds to the green splendour. Saved from the bulldozer by Kenyan Nobel Peace Prize winner Wangari Maathai, Uhuru Park is a vast recreational area and popular place to relax from the hustle and bustle of central Nairobi.

Just next to City Square with its imposing statue of the founding father of modern Kenya, Jomo Kenyatta, is the Kenyatta International Convention Centre (KICC), perhaps the best-known landmark in the city. A fusion of modern and local styles, KICC’s interior has been distinctly ‘Africanised’ and contains an amphitheatre designed in the shape of a traditional hut. A speedy lift takes eager visitors to the top floor of this 32-storey, saucer-topped tower – formerly the city’s tallest building – for magnificent views of Nairobi’s chaotic glory and the hinterland beyond. On clear days it is possible to spy the rugged summit of Mount Kenya, the second-highest peak in Africa.

The city’s Parliament Buildings are another notable monument, where entry into the National Assembly can be obtained to see African democracy in action, or a tour arranged with the sergeant-at-arms.

National Treasures

History buffs will want to explore the Nairobi National Museum, which reflects the story of Kenya. Established in 1910 and set within lush, leafy grounds just outside the city centre, this imposing edifice is one of the oldest museums in East Africa. It is full of amazing artefacts such as ceremonial Siwa horns dating back to 1688, ethnographic paintings of Kenya’s tribes inked by naturalist Joy Adamson of Born Free fame, and a Kalenjin cloak made from the skins of Sykes’ monkeys. Of special note is the life-size replica of the massive elephant known as Ahmed, who was considered to be largest tusker at the time of the country’s independence from Britain in 1963, and was accorded special status by President Jomo Kenyatta.

An extensive array of stuffed species spans an aardvark, a giant forest hog and an okapi (zebra giraffe). The Hominid Skull Room contains an extraordinary range of early human fossils in perhaps one of the best collections in the world. Another room is dedicated to the history of Kenya in the context of East Africa.

Out of Africa

The nearby Snake Park is a great place to see animals alive and unfettered. It boasts an impressive range of serpents, most notably the puff adder, black mamba, Egyptian cobra, African rock python and the Gaboon viper, whose four-centimetre-long fangs offer a slightly menacing presence. Other draws here are exotic fish, lizards, turtles and crocodiles.

Situated some 10 kilometres outside central Nairobi, the Karen Blixen Museum is a must-visit for those who loved the film Out of Africa. The Danish author resided here on a coffee plantation between 1914 and 1931, and the colonial elegance of the property set in charming gardens has been preserved. The building contains memorabilia from Blixen’s time in Africa and the shooting of the film. Guided tours are available that detail her tumultuous life and times.

To absorb some of Africa’s rich indigenous culture, head to Bomas of Kenya, a tourist village also located to the southwest of the city. It consists of clusters of homesteads (bomas) representing various Kenyan tribal groups. Among a repertoire of some 50 traditional dances and songs performed by different ethnic communities expect Embu drumming, an enactment of a Kikuyu circumcision ceremony, spectacular Kalenjin warrior dances and Arabic-influenced Swahili music.

For a more static taste of local tradition, the African Heritage House overlooking Nairobi National Park showcases African architecture in a range of styles. An overnight stay here is recommended.

Game Show

The National Park, established in 1946, is by far the most popular tourist destination in the city. Offering an unforgettable chance to view rhinos and lions within sight of Nairobi’s modern skyscrapers, this amazing tract of grassland and acacia savannah is fenced on the city side to protect its domestic population. Nothing like it exists elsewhere in Africa – world-class game viewing in a park straddling the southern outskirts of a national capital.

Open plains slope gently from west to east while rocky ridges are covered in rich vegetation. Streams run southeast into the Mbagathi river, and even during the dry season the park has a permanent source of water, which enables it to attract big game. Four of the Big Five – buffalo, leopard, lion and rhino – reside in the park, with only elephants absent as the reserve is too small to support them. Rangers keep visitors regularly updated on the movements of lions and hyenas, as well as the resident cheetahs and leopards, which can require more patience to spot. The world’s densest population of black rhinos is found here too. Other animals often spotted in the park are gazelles, warthogs, zebras, giraffes, ostriches and buffaloes.

Nairobi Safari Walk run by the Kenya Wildlife Service, whose headquarters is located near one of the entrances, offers tourists the chance to see some of the Nairobi’s wilder residents from the safety of a raised boardwalk. Nestled inside the park is the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust nursery, where handlers bottle-feed groups of baby elephants. Not far off, in the suburb of Lang’ata, the Giraffe Centre also allows visitors to witness conservation efforts, particularly with regard to the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe.

Feeding Time

Such are its depth of offerings and breadth of flavours that Nairobi is considered one of the culinary capitals of Africa. There is a plethora of great restaurants and cafes to try, and some have gorgeous garden settings, making eating out even more enjoyable. The Westlands and Karen neighbourhoods are blessed with an array of upmarket dining options. Lord Delamere Terrace is a sophisticated eatery which allows visitors to taste old-style Africa; it also features one of the continent’s classic bars. The Karen Blixen Coffee Garden has a wonderful English country-garden vibe, with dishes ranging from gourmet burgers to Swahili curries. Its Sunday lunch buffet is popular.

For a uniquely ‘Out of Africa’ culinary experience, seek out Carnivore, one of the most famous restaurants in the city. Billed as a Beast of a Feast since 1980, its speciality is nyama choma (barbecued meat). Near the entrance is a huge barbecue pit crammed full of Maasai swords laden with beef, pork, lamb, chicken and farmed game meat such as crocodile and ostrich. The all-you-can-eat meat comes with salad, vegetable sides and sauces, plus a soup of the day. Once satiated, diners are encouraged to cease the feeding frenzy and move onto dessert and coffee by lowering a white paper flag.