Located in the province of Brescia in Lombardy, Italy, the spectacular wine region of Franciacorta has blossomed into one of the gems of global viticulture. This tiny area is famed for the quality of its sparkling wines, whose most enthusiastic devotees say are a match for some of the finest Champagnes. It is exactly 30 years since these remarkable bubbles – produced using the traditional method – were awarded full DOCG classification, Italy’s top rank of wine-producing regions.

Though the area is situated in southern Europe, which is generally blessed with a warm climate, many of the vineyards are planted near the southern shores of Lake Iseo in the foothills of the Alps. Temperatures here are dampened by cold air descending from the mountain slopes, preventing the fruit from over-ripening in the sun. The lakeside locale is crucial in moderating this effect, providing a micro-climate suited to making some of the world’s best sparkling wines. Ultimately, the unique geography of the area enables the high level of acidity required for top-quality fizz.

Sparkling star

Alex Wai, Sommelier at Grissini, one of Hong Kong’s most prestigious Italian restaurants, reveals the area’s rolling hills were shaped by glacial action. He praises its glacial moraine soil, comprising gravel and sand over limestone, as ideal for the cultivation of grapes.

Wai says the reputation of the Franciacorta wine region has surged over recent years. He is fond of Franciacorta’s graceful ‘blanc de blancs’ style bubbles, which showcase the unique regional style. His favourite, though, is Essence Noir produced by Antica Fratta.

Describing the character of this wine, he notes: “It is a pure expression of Pinot Nero from the Franciacorta area – complex on the palate but offering an underlying elegance in style.”

Ancient modernity

The Antica Fratta project was launched in 1979 by Franco Ziliani, who pioneered the first Franciacorta winery, Guido Berlucchi. Desiring to create a new high-quality sparkling wine that would be distinct from the original estate and not interfere with existing operations, Ziliani drew upon the splendours of the newly renovated 19th-century cellars of a beautiful villa in the Fratta area of Monticelli Brusati.

Realising his vision, Antica Fratta has evolved to produce superior sparkling wines. The delicate Essence Satèn is particularly noteworthy, being made entirely from white grapes – Chardonnay, albeit with the allowance of some Pinot Bianco.

“Our Essence line is a vintage wine that has spent a minimum of three to four years in contact with the yeast before its dégorgement, and more than a year in bottle,” says Cristian Maddelana, a leading Italy-based wine consultant who has long advised the estate.

Black magic

In Franciacorta like other regions around the world, the pervasive effect of climate change and warming temperatures is threatening the fine balance that enables great wines to be produced. Careful management of the vines and harvest times has been necessary to maintain quality, but one side effect has been that black grapes such as Pinot Nero now fare better than before. Antica Fratta now produces a ‘blanc de noirs’ style made entirely from this famous Bourgogne varietal (where it is called Pinot Noir), the aptly named Essence Noir.

Maddelana says the production at the Antica Fratta estate is now focused on this style made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. “This technical characteristic, combined with the terroir-driven expression of the Pinot Noir from our region, makes the wine creamy and structured on the nose, with a golden colour, yet expressing with freshness and finesse on the palate – all of this underpinned by its minerality and acidity,” he enthuses.