As the sun beams down on a Monday afternoon in Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, the city is alive with movement. Among the thrumming heartbeat of the metropolis, Michael Larkin makes his entrance at Lala, the restaurant he co-founded this February, still sporting his motorcycle helmet like a badge of honour. Having hopped off his bike and shaken off the remnants of his morning errands, he is ready to dive into the world of culinary creation – and just for today, magazine modelling.

Larkin chuckles as he glances around the vibrant Parisian-style eatery adorned with lush greenery and the tantalising aroma of exquisitely crafted dishes. “This is a different kind of day for me,” he admits, positioning the helmet on the nearest table. “Most mornings, I wake up early in my home away from Central, get in my step count barefoot, and whip up breakfast for my girlfriend and our two dogs. It’s a soothing start before the restaurant chaos.”

The serial culinary co-founder reflects on the reality of restaurant ownership with a hint of a grin. “I have to do almost everything. Is it tiring? Yes. But is it efficient? Absolutely. I want specific results, so I opt to do things myself – from décor plants to spoons and forks, ingredients, and everything in between.”

Flavourful childhood

Larkin’s journey into the world of food and hospitality did not spring from the ordinary, but rather from a rich tapestry of experiences spun by his parents. Their establishment, The Dubliner ¬– the first Irish pub in Romania – created a vibrant backdrop to his childhood. For young Michael, the pub was a home, and the patrons, his extended family.

“My parents opened the pub [in 1994], and it was an instant hit,” he says with nostalgia. “I spent my days there, doing my homework, washing glasses, and learning from the regulars. We treated every guest like family. We ate together, played games, celebrated, and mourned losses – they were my friends.”

This profound understanding of community and hospitality has shaped his welcoming approach at Lala. “My dad was a fantastic cook,” he adds. “Hosting was his love language, which inspired my passion for cooking. It became less about the food and more about bringing people together.”

Lessons from London

Before landing in Hong Kong hospitality management almost a decade ago, Larkin honed his skills in the culinary hotbed of London. The experience was electric, mentoring under industry greats and realising his potential in the competitive market. “I was inspired by the energy around me,” he recalls. “One pivotal moment was looking at the managers above me and asking, ‘What is stopping me from doing what they’re doing?’ The answer was nothing.”

When he finally took that leap into entrepreneurship, he understood the challenge that awaited him. “I knew I couldn’t rely on working for others forever. You hit those glass ceilings, and it stifles your growth. I preferred to create my own opportunities,” he states earnestly. In 2021, he co-founded late-night venue Quality Goods Club in Hollywood Road, and the following year Artifact Bar in Jardine House.

Mentorship played a formidable role in his development, particularly having the chance to work under Jonathan Murray, a consultant renowned for his unwavering standards. “Jonathan taught me what it means to be ruthless with quality,” he affirms. In his three years at Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, he crossed paths with French chef Franckelie Laloum, formerly of Louise and now his partner at Lala. “Having mentors like Yenn Wong and Franckelie by my side throughout the founding of Lala instilled in me the power of perseverance and resilience,” he says.

Cue La La

Larkin and Laloum realised they needed to design a concept that stood out in Central’s competitive dining scene. “We were mindful that we were entering a post-Covid era and people would be more conscious of their dining experiences,” he explains. “So, we focused on going back to the basics – giving people what they want.”

Lala – named after the first two letters of the duo’s surnames – isn’t just another restaurant; it’s an approachable haven tailored for the community, which is significant in a city where trends fluctuate rapidly. Larkin emphasises that compromised quality is not an option. “Hongkongers are discerning. We focus on balance – quality ingredients and cooking that provide great value,” he stresses.

Consistency is critical, too. “It’s easy to be good for one day, but to do it for 365 days a year? That’s the challenge,” he muses, noting that he treats every dining experience like a maestro conducting an orchestra.

Spurs of success

For him, success transcends mere financial gain. “I’m super competitive and quickly get bored,” he confesses. “I love the challenge of creating memorable experiences for our guests. When our dining room buzzes with joy, it’s music to my ears – it’s beautiful to be part of that.”

Defining success extends beyond the walls of Lala. It introduces a deeper conversation about happiness: “Success isn’t synonymous with happiness. They’re distinct. Happiness comes from being on the path to success – working hard and enjoying the ride.”

He shares his personal benchmark for measuring success in an ever-evolving industry: “Cities and trends change; staying adaptable is crucial. If venues don’t pivot, they’ll find themselves struggling.” And as for his secret to maintaining a healthy work-life balance? A serious commitment to fitness and a peaceful escape.

“Lamma Island is my oasis,” he declares, his face lighting up. “Waking up to bird songs, a stroll to the beach with my dogs. It provides a respite from the intense restaurant life.” The support of his girlfriend, Alexia, is equally vital; slipstreaming into his professional journey, she helps select his outfits and ensures he brings balance into his life.

Here to serve

As Larkin reflects on the essence of happiness, he acknowledges the struggles many face in the hospitality sector. “It’s not easy,” he states bluntly. “The hours are brutal; managing relationships and mental health can be tough. I prioritise staying healthy and away from excessive drinking; that gives me the best chance to succeed.”

For aspiring restaurateurs, he shares wise counsel. “Don’t expect it to be easy; it rarely is. Know that if it were uncomplicated, anyone could do it. Embrace the struggle because that’s what makes life rich,” he encourages, a knowing smile cracking his focus. As we wrap up the interview, Alexia makes a surprise appearance, bringing a burst of warm geniality into the room. Her presence serves to remind him of the support system that fuels his endeavour.

“I’ve been calling Hong Kong my home for quite some time now,” he concludes, gazing out into the cityscape. “Its diverse offerings reflect the duality I strive for: the hustle of a city and the calm of an island. Lala embodies that balance – offering authentic, exquisite food while embracing a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.”

With a wave, he dismisses the notion of separation between the busy city glamour and the tranquillity of home, both personally and professionally. In the beautiful madness of Hong Kong, Michael Larkin has found ways to cultivate not just a restaurant but a lifestyle filled with joy, quality and community.